How can you tell if a vintage Hermès is real?

To tell if a vintage Hermès is real, first examine the zippers. One of the easiest ways to spot a fake is to take a look at (and tug on) the zippers. The leather of the pull tab should match that of the rest of the piece, and the underside shouldn’t show any signs of adhesive, which counterfeiters often use to attach tabs to bags. The metal tab should be engraved with “Hermès,” not YKK or the name of any other zipper maker, and it should never dangle down. Like all engravings on Hermès hardware, the text on the zipper should be clean, elegant and centered on the tab, not slapdash or thick. Counterfeiters have been known to get this right, however, so you might also want to assess the zipper’s action. Zipping a Hermès should be a luxurious experience, whether it’s vintage or was crafted in 2023. The motion should be smooth, easy and uniform. The zipper should never catch or feel stiff when you open or close it. If it does, you may have a fake on your hands. Some counterfeit shortcuts are easy to discover if you turn the bag over and look at its base. If there are feet, do they twist off? They won’t on a real Hermès. Are they shorter, wider or cheaper-looking than authentic bags? Finally, the leather should run side to side along the length of the bag, not top to bottom. Should you need assistance with the authentication process, enlist the help of a certified appraiser or other knowledgeable expert. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of vintage Hermès bags.