How do you know if a Chanel bag is real?

To know if a Chanel bag is real, first examine the serial number. Chanel began including serial numbers at the bottom of its bags in the mid-1980s. Between six and eight digits long, depending on the release date, they indicate the bag style and the year of manufacture. A quick web search will provide detailed information about Chanel serial numbers as well as the release dates of various styles. Walk away if you find that, for example, your serial number indicates a 2005 manufacture date for a style that wasn’t made until 2013.

Next, look closely at the iconic CC clasp. In a genuine Chanel clasp, the interlocking CCs have flat edges, not rounded ones. The right-hand C will always overlap the one on the left at the top, with the overlapping reversed at the bottom. Any other arrangement is an error, and when it comes to quality, Chanel doesn’t make those kinds of mistakes.

Also, check the backplate of the clasp. Located on the inside of the flap, the backplate of the CC logo clasp is secured with two screws (and not just any kind of screws). Until 2015, Chanel only used flathead screws, never cross-shaped Phillips screws. That year, it switched to star-shaped, proprietary screws made exclusively for the House of Chanel. These screws are easy to recognize and hard to fake because they require a special screwdriver that isn’t sold in a hardware store.

The backplate bears another indicator of an authentic Chanel bag: the all-caps etched lettering should read “CHANEL” at the top and “PARIS” at the bottom of the plate. If the etching is irregular, the spacing is uneven or the unmistakable typeface is replaced by a mainstream font, it’s a sign of a fake.

If you need assistance with authentication, consult a certified appraiser or other knowledgeable fashion expert. On 1stDibs, shop a diverse assortment of Chanel bags.