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Fashion of the 1990s
For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn’t yet exist, the design associated with 1990s fashion — vintage '90s handbags, clothing and accessories — has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity.
If there was one concept unifying fashion in the 1990s, it was the lean silhouette. “Fashion is a game of proportion,” Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. “Narrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the ’90s were skinny.”
If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that’s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.
The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan and Belgium gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim, minimalism, '90s grunge fashion and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal. And Prada.
For the colorful corsets of her 1990 Portrait collection, audacious British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood drew on 18th-century oil paintings — her models donned the pearl choker necklaces that have become a social media star and a favorite of influencers and fashion lovers all over the world. For a jacket-and-shorts suit from her Fall/Winter 1996–97 Storm in a Teacup line, the designer used the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, “the horror of uniformity and minimalism.”
“The ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn’t about money, it wasn’t about status,” says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.”
Vintage 1990s Chanel bags, for example, are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings — at Newfound Luxury, proprietor L. Kiyana Macon has "clients who only buy ’90s Chanel because they recognize that it is the best quality.”
Things were different in the ’90s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes. Pull up any recent “How to Do the 1990s” fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you’ll see iconic '90s outfits — knee socks, cardigans, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses, flannel shirts and combat boots.
Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock “for very sexy Galliano, Dior, Cavalli — that kind of thing,” she explains, noting that just a few months ago, “people were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.” Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.”
Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,” Rodriguez continues. They’re “heading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang, [Martin] Margiela and [Ann] Demeulemeester.”
Late designer Franco Moschino shocked and titillated the ’80s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He famously said, “If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” — words that, with all due respect to Susan Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.
Vintage Moschino pants, jackets and other '90s Moschino garments remain so bold and fresh today that even the house's former creative director, Jeremy Scott, drew on the brand's past and the pop culture of the decade for his debut collection in 2014.
Find vintage 90s dresses, skirts, sweaters and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs — shop Thierry Mugler, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and more today.
Finding the Right Shirts for You
While everyone has a different go-to style of vintage and designer shirt in the closet, the goal is the same: a fit that emphasizes your favorite features, looks great and favors your skin tone. A good shirt is going to make you feel good, regardless of your shape or size.
The shirt is the quiet powerhouse of any outfit. A neutral top is likely the most versatile garment in your wardrobe. A white T-shirt is an iconic creation that remains modern even today, a black button-down can be paired with everything and that gray long sleeve is going to dazzle with dark-wash denim jeans.
There are certain universal things to keep in mind when shopping for your next shirt. If you’re building out your wardrobe, for example, it wouldn’t hurt to secure some staples in the aforementioned neutral category. Any shade of gray, beige or cream, navy blue, black, white — there is nothing more adaptable than shirts in these colors. All of these colors pair swimmingly with one another, which makes it easy to put together an outfit, and you can always add a splash of color by way of a red knit tie to your gray pants, navy suit jacket and white button-down shirt ensemble. For a men’s dress shirt, specifically, you’ll want it to be long enough to tuck into your pants, or leave untucked, depending on the occasion, but it should not bunch at the waist if you decide to go with the former.
Combining the right elements and adding the perfect finishing touch is just as important as getting the right fit. The proper pants and jacket elevate even the simplest of T-shirts. Sometimes success just means donning a beautifully constructed bomber jacket and a perfect fitting pair of jeans. Fashion and clothing don’t have to be complicated.
The same factors apply generally to women’s shirts and women’s dress shirts too. Hem-wise, a woman’s dress shirt should be long enough to comfortably wear untucked or tucked in, and you shouldn’t have a gaping space between your buttons. In sum, your shirt should make you feel like a boss. Is it comfortable? Do you have freedom of movement throughout the day? Does it make you feel great regardless of your size or shape? If so, it’s a keeper.
At 1stDibs, find exciting vintage shirts from prominent luxury fashion houses, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Chanel, as well as the perfect handbags and accessories to complete your look. Our wide range of men’s and women’s shirts offers a little something for everyone: There are polos, T-shirts, button-downs, blouses, novelty shirts and more. Browse an extensive collection of vintage 20th-century pieces and iconic graphic tees too.
- 1stDibs ExpertMarch 31, 2023During the 1990s, Versace was so popular largely because Gianni Versace created designs that stood out among others of the time. More than any designer before him, Versace mined celebrity, music and pop art for inspiration. With their unique details and sex appeal, his designs caught the eye of celebrities and made the Italian luxury fashion house well-known among the general public. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of Versace pieces.
- 1stDibs ExpertAugust 17, 2021Some of the most popular bags from the 1990s include Prada backpacks, Fendi Baguette purses, Lady Dior top handle bags and Gucci Horsebit purses. Some, including the Lady Dior and horsebit, are still quite popular today. Find an extensive range of 90s handbags on 1stDibs as well as a variety of other 90s fashion accessories.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Many different styles of dress were popular in the 1990s, including the slip dress which became very common by the middle of the decade. Tastes and styles varied between regions and among people. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of vintage 1990s dresses from some of the world’s top boutiques.
- Was Chanel popular in the 90s?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 5, 2023Yes, Chanel was popular in the 1990s. At that time, Karl Lagerfeld served as the Creative Director for the French luxury fashion house. Print ad campaigns featuring supermodels Claudia Schiffer and Linda Evangelista promoted the brand. Many pieces from the decade proudly displayed the interlocked CC logo, and Chanel miniskirts and jeans were especially trendy. On 1stDibs, shop a variety of Chanel pieces.
- 1stDibs ExpertJune 30, 2023In the 1990s, there were a few models and celebrities who served as the faces of Chanel. They included actress Anna Mouglalis, model and actress Carole Bouquet, model Claudia Schiffer and musician Vanessa Paradis. Shop a collection of Chanel pieces on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Popular ‘90s clothing items include leather pants, fitted skirts, halter tops, crop tops, mini skirts and platform shoes.The ‘90s style was characterized by a bright color palette. There are plenty of ‘90s fashion accessories and clothing on 1stDibs.
- Who owned Chanel in the 90s?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 5, 2023Alain and Gerard Wertheimer owned Chanel in the 1990s. The brothers are the grandsons of Pierre Wertheimer, who had been business partners with Coco Chanel. In 1974, the Wertheimers inherited the company from their father, Jacques Wertheimer. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of Chanel pieces from some of the world’s top boutiques.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 22, 2024More than one type of jeans was popular in the 90s. Men and women often wore baggy jeans or gently tapered jeans. For women, high-waisted mom jeans were also common. Some popular denim brands of the decade were Pepe Jeans, Levi's, Guess, Marithé + François Girbaud, Versace, Moschino and Jean Paul Gaultier. On 1stDibs, shop a variety of vintage jeans.
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