Antique Heart Locket
1840s British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold
Early 1900s French French Provincial Antique Heart Locket
Porcelain
1780s British Georgian Antique Heart Locket
Turquoise, 18k Gold
Mid-19th Century English Victorian Antique Heart Locket
White Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold
Late 19th Century British Late Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Pearl, Turquoise, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
19th Century English Antique Heart Locket
Gold
Early 1900s English Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Ruby, 15k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Heart Locket
Crystal, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
1910s British George V Antique Heart Locket
18k Gold, 9k Gold
Early 20th Century French Edwardian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, 18k Gold
1890s British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Russian Edwardian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, 14k Gold
1840s French Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Garnet, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 1900s British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Garnet, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s American Antique Heart Locket
Natural Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold
19th Century French High Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Pearl, 18k Gold
19th Century Antique Heart Locket
Turquoise, Gold
1830s English Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Garnet, Gold, Silver
Late 19th Century Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Turquoise, 15k Gold
Early 1900s British Edwardian Antique Heart Locket
Late 19th Century American Art Nouveau Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, 14k Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Late Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
19th Century French Victorian Antique Heart Locket
18k Gold, Enamel
Late 19th Century British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Rock Crystal, Ruby
Early 1800s British Georgian Antique Heart Locket
Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s Antique Heart Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold
Mid-19th Century English Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Early 18th Century English Georgian Antique Heart Locket
Pearl, 9k Gold
17th Century Renaissance Antique Heart Locket
Gold, Enamel
Mid-19th Century Unknown Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Garnet, 15k Gold
1820s British Georgian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Emerald, Rock Crystal, Gold, Silver
Late 19th Century English Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Garnet, 15k Gold
Mid-19th Century English Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Ruby, Turquoise, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
1850s British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 22k Gold
Late 19th Century British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Sterling Silver
1890s American Antique Heart Locket
Turquoise, Rose Gold, 9k Gold
19th Century English Late Victorian Antique Heart Locket
White Diamond, 15k Gold
1880s British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Crystal, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
1880s British Late Victorian Antique Heart Locket
9k Gold
Early 1900s British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Rock Crystal, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
1880s English Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Pearl, Gold
1780s British Georgian Antique Heart Locket
Coral, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s Unknown Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, 22k Gold
1830s British Antique Heart Locket
Turquoise, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Pearl, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
19th Century British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Cultured Pearl, 15k Gold
1880s British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Emerald, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1830s Unknown Georgian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
9k Gold, Yellow Gold
1820s British George IV Antique Heart Locket
Turquoise, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Gold-filled
1890s Unknown Victorian Antique Heart Locket
Diamond, Natural Pearl, 14k Gold
19th Century English Victorian Antique Heart Locket
White Diamond, 15k Gold, Sterling Silver
1890s French Antique Heart Locket
Natural Pearl, Turquoise, 18k Gold
Late 19th Century American Art Nouveau Antique Heart Locket
Crystal, 14k Gold, Gold-filled
1910s American Art Deco Antique Heart Locket
14k Gold
Late 19th Century British Victorian Antique Heart Locket
9k Gold
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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 1, 2023What a heart locket symbolizes is largely open to interpretation. Given the shape of the pendant, many people associate heart lockets with love. Wearing a locket often symbolizes wanting to keep someone or something close to you. As a result, a heart locket may mean wanting to hold onto or remember a romantic partner or relative. On 1stDibs, find a diverse assortment of heart lockets.
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