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The name Bonnie Cashin may not be as recognizable as those of other fashion greats, like Tom Ford, Donna Karan or Bill Blass, but few designers have made as profound an impact on American sportswear. 

Born in 1907, Cashin began her career as a costume designer in the late 1920s, founding her own line, Bonnie Cashin Designs, in 1952. She created uniforms for American Airlines flight attendants and American servicewomen during World War II and collaborated with more than 35 brands, including Ballantyne and Hermès. 

Perhaps best known for her work as lead designer at Coach from 1961 to 1974, Cashin also had a fruitful collaboration, from 1951 to 1977, with the leather manufacturer Sills. For Sills, she playfully mixed and matched materials in her work, and her exceptional coats and other outerwear dazzled with bold patterns an exaggerated sleeves.

Cashin created convertible garments using ingenious engineering and is even credited with the modern concept of layering, which won her a Neiman Marcus award in 1950. So, although her work might be a bit under the radar, those in the know covet Cashin treasures — collectors have evidently snapped up examples of a statement coat she designed for Sills during the late 1960s. The piece, which is made of a chunky mohair yarn woven in a vibrant lime-green-and-black oversize houndstooth pattern, is documented in Stephanie Lake’s 2016 monograph, Bonnie Cashin: Chic Is Where You Find It (Rizzoli).

Vintage Cashin pieces, which were informed by the designer’s global travels, have sparked fervent online discussions, with a growing community of enthusiasts sharing tips on sourcing and thoughtful restoration of her timeless works, particularly her Coach bags. 

Indeed, fifty years after her departure, her contributions to Coach’s identity remain commercially successful and beloved by collectors. The brass turnlock, introduced by Cashin in 1961, is now a hallmark of the brand. And her clever antique-style metal kiss-lock clasps and inset coin-purse pockets were prominently featured in Coach’s New York Fashion Week presentation in 2024.

Nearly a quarter century after her death, in 2000, Cashin’s designs remain strikingly original. Ironically, a designer frequently overlooked in discussions of mid-century fashion is the visionary talent behind pieces that, once seen, are completely unforgettable.

Find vintage Bonnie Cashin bags and clothing for sale on 1stDibs.

From classic medium-sized Louis Vuitton leather tote bags to authentic cube-like Loewe shoulder bags woven in raffia, the large selection of vintage and designer tote bags on 1stDibs offers something for special occasions as well as everyday needs.

Although part of a modern look, tote bags have been roomy and versatile accessories since at least 1944, with the launch of L.L.Bean’s “ice bag.” The Maine retailer, then largely known for rugged field coats and hunting shoes, had introduced a big, durable canvas bag that was initially intended to carry firewood or ice. In those days, to keep produce and other foods cool in refrigerators, consumers had to regularly replace the blocks of ice that were doing all the work in their bulky appliances. There was no better bag to help haul big blocks of ice from the trunk of your car to your front door and, subsequently, to your kitchen.

Years later, during the 1960s, L.L.Bean’s Boat and Tote was introduced as an overhauled structured canvas version of the ice bag. Tested to lug up to 500 pounds, the Boat and Tote became a best seller. Also during the 1960s, American designer Bonnie Cashin created the Cashin Carry for Coach. Cashin was Coach’s first lead designer, and she liked leather, large pockets and earth tones. Her modern interpretation of the tote bag introduced a touch of elegance to this increasingly ubiquitous accessory.

In the subsequent decades, more brands debuted their own iterations of the tote bag, from Tory Burch’s Perry leather tote bag to Goyard’s luxurious Saint Louis. 

Pay tribute to this long and interesting history of a well-loved accessory by browsing the vintage and designer tote bags on 1stDibs.