Bonnie Cashin Leather Coat

The name Bonnie Cashin may not be as recognizable as those of other fashion greats, like Tom Ford, Donna Karan or Bill Blass, but few designers have made as profound an impact on American sportswear. 

Born in 1907, Cashin began her career as a costume designer in the late 1920s, founding her own line, Bonnie Cashin Designs, in 1952. She created uniforms for American Airlines flight attendants and American servicewomen during World War II and collaborated with more than 35 brands, including Ballantyne and Hermès. 

Perhaps best known for her work as lead designer at Coach from 1961 to 1974, Cashin also had a fruitful collaboration, from 1951 to 1977, with the leather manufacturer Sills. For Sills, she playfully mixed and matched materials in her work, and her exceptional coats and other outerwear dazzled with bold patterns an exaggerated sleeves.

Cashin created convertible garments using ingenious engineering and is even credited with the modern concept of layering, which won her a Neiman Marcus award in 1950. So, although her work might be a bit under the radar, those in the know covet Cashin treasures — collectors have evidently snapped up examples of a statement coat she designed for Sills during the late 1960s. The piece, which is made of a chunky mohair yarn woven in a vibrant lime-green-and-black oversize houndstooth pattern, is documented in Stephanie Lake’s 2016 monograph, Bonnie Cashin: Chic Is Where You Find It (Rizzoli).

Vintage Cashin pieces, which were informed by the designer’s global travels, have sparked fervent online discussions, with a growing community of enthusiasts sharing tips on sourcing and thoughtful restoration of her timeless works, particularly her Coach bags. 

Indeed, fifty years after her departure, her contributions to Coach’s identity remain commercially successful and beloved by collectors. The brass turnlock, introduced by Cashin in 1961, is now a hallmark of the brand. And her clever antique-style metal kiss-lock clasps and inset coin-purse pockets were prominently featured in Coach’s New York Fashion Week presentation in 2024.

Nearly a quarter century after her death, in 2000, Cashin’s designs remain strikingly original. Ironically, a designer frequently overlooked in discussions of mid-century fashion is the visionary talent behind pieces that, once seen, are completely unforgettable.

Find vintage Bonnie Cashin bags and clothing for sale on 1stDibs.

There is a stylish garment for anywhere in the universe, and on 1stDibs, finding the right vintage and designer coats and outerwear doesn’t have to feel like a journey to the ends of the earth.

Outerwear includes many types of garments aside from the standard coat. From capes, gilets, jackets and cloaks to raincoats and kimonos, fashion designers have long been preparing us for the elements, and outerwear in general has changed and evolved significantly over time.

A lot of the coat styles in our closets, such as the durable Navy-inspired peacoat, were popularized by soldiers who battled aggressive climes in their regulation field jackets and parkas — indeed, keeping troopers comfortable guided the design of the military surplus garments that have often become buzzy fashion trends. Even today, owing to the likes of Burberry, a luxury fashion house that is among the originators of the trench coat worn by British officers during World War I, the trench remains a timeless style, now available in a range of colors that can be worn throughout the year.

While women in late 1700s England donned an adaptation of a men’s jacket called a spencer — the likeness of which could be spotted in Ralph Lauren’s ready-to-wear collections hundreds of years later — designers hadn’t widely been crafting outerwear specifically for women. Generally, the outerwear of choice for the fashionable, well-heeled lady prior to the 1800s usually consisted of capes, shawls and stoles. By the mid-1800s, women were wearing overcoats with multiple layered collars popularized by men (often called a Garrick coat in England), and as women entered the workforce during the 1920s, hemlines climbed, jewelry was prominent and fashion conventions were broken across the board.

Thankfully, the 20th century’s tradition of challenging the norm continues steadfast in today’s outerwear fashions. Contemporary designers certainly find inspiration in 1960s and 1970s coats by Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent and Bonnie Cashin, but unisex options abound in modern creations that take both function and style into account. Find what inspires you in the full range of vintage and designer coats and outerwear available for sale on 1stDibs.