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A Ruby Diamond Yacht Club Flag Brooch
Located in Firenze, IT
waving flag set with pave'-set diamonds and calibre'-cut rubies, accented by a yellow gold crown in the
Category

20th Century British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Edwardian Marquis of Anglesey Crest Diamond Eagle Brooch
Located in New York, NY
, 3.6 inches tall It has approx 25 carats of old mine diamonds and small ruby eye
Category

Antique 1870s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

Antique Edwardian French 18k Yellow Gold Platinum Ruby Diamond Hat Pin
Located in Montclair, NJ
Mark on Pin Condition: Antique Edwardian. Shows some light wear. Rubies scratched & Abraded. Stock
Category

Vintage 1910s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Geoffroy Co. Edwardian 14 Karat Gold Dog Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
a dark finish in recesses and a round ruby cabochon eye, very dark purplish-red in color Backside
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Edwardian Platinum and 18K Gold Rose Cut Diamond Ruby Floral Pin
Located in Great Neck, NY
Beautiful Antique Edwardian Platinum and 18K Gold Rose Cut Diamond Ruby Floral Pin. This marvelous
Category

Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Edwardian Art Nouveau 1900 Scarab Brooch Gold Silver Diamonds And Gemstones
Located in Miami, FL
An Edwardian scarab pendant-brooch made in England This is a very beautiful antique brooch
Category

Antique Early 1900s English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, Ye...

Edwardian Diamond Platinum-Topped 14 Karat Gold Dog Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Depicting a highly rendered face of a dog featuring a matte gold finish and round ruby cabochon
Category

Vintage 1910s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Cartier Paris 1905 Edwardian Arrow Jabot In 18Kt Gold Platinum Diamonds Rubies
By Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Edwardian period. This beautiful piece was made in Paris France by the jewelry house of Cartier back in the
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Cartier Paris 1905 Edwardian Arrow Jabot 18Kt Gold Platinum Diamonds And Rubies
By Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
the Edwardian period. This beautiful piece was created in Paris France by the house of Cartier, back
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

French Pearl Ruby Diamond Gold Griffin and Harp Brooch
Located in Toronto, ON
French Griffin and Harp Ruby, Diamond, Pearl and 18K (tested) Brooch, C.1890. The winged griffin
Category

20th Century French Edwardian Brooches

Antique Diamond, Sapphire Ruby 9 Carat Rose Gold Bar Brooch, c.1910
Located in London, GB
Delicate, but full of character and colour, this wonderful antique bar brooch is definitely a must
Category

Vintage 1910s English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 9k Gold, Rose Gold

Edwardian 1.06 Carat Pave Diamond Platinum-Topped 18 Karat Gold Swallow Bird Pin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
color with SI clarity Accented by a polished gold beak and a round cut ruby eye, bezel set in gold
Category

Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

1897 E. Wolfe Co. Enamel Pave Diamond 18 Karat White Gold Horse Jockey Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Horse is pavè set throughout by round brilliant cut diamonds and accented by ruby cabochon eyes
Category

Antique 1890s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, E...

1900s Diamond Platinum Fox Terrier Brooch
Located in London, England
A delightful Edwardian diamond set fox terrier platinum dog brooch. With a vibrant ruby eye set
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Antique Butterfly and Crescent Brooch
Located in London, GB
An antique butterfly and crescent brooch, set with old-cut diamonds, rubies, emeralds and a
Category

Vintage 1910s American Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold

1920s Gold, Diamond Demantoid Dragon Fly Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa: 1920s 14K yellow Gold Dragon Fly Brooch, set with 2 Carats of European cut Diamonds, a
Category

20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold

Edwardian Diamond Sapphire Burma Ruby Emerald Interchangable Pendant Brooch AGL
Located in Boca Raton, FL
Versatile Edwardian pendant and brooch handcrafted in platinum and 14 karat yellow gold. The
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Edwardian Diamond Ruby Platinum-Topped 18 Karat Gold Cherubic Pendant Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Pendant brooch is designed as a triad of winged cherubs uplifting an old European cut diamond
Category

Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Edwardian Ruby and Diamond 15 Carat Gold Brooch
Located in Chipping Campden, GB
Gorgeous curved half moon 15ct gold brooch holding nine sparkling rubies and ten delicate diamonds.
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold

Edwardian Ruby and Diamond Crescent 9 Carat Gold Brooch
Located in Chipping Campden, GB
This stylish crescent brooch holds a total of 13 rubies and pairs of diamond points in-between each
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Antique Edwardian Gold Brooch w Ruby Diamond Accents
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
Romantic antique accent piece, this petite Edwardian Gold Bar Pin has charming characteristics of
Category

Antique 1890s British Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Antique Edwardian Ruby Gold Bar Brooch Pin Estate Fine Jewelry
Located in Montreal, QC
Antique Rubies Bar Brooch. Beautifully Hand crafted and Hand set with Rubies in 14K yellow Gold
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 9ct Gold Edwardian Ruby Pearl Crescent Moon Brooch, Circa 1910
Located in Brighton, GB
Antique Gold Ruby & Pearl Brooch 9ct Gold Stamped Circa 1910 This antique brooch is crafted in
Category

Early 20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 9k Gold

Edwardian Diamond Ruby Platinum White Gold Pointer Hunting Dog Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
approximately 0.50 carat total, eye-clean and white With tiny round cut ruby eye Tested as platinum with white
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, White Gold, Platinum

Antique Edwardian 800 Silver Paste Monkey Novelty Bar Brooch
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
. The eyes are encrusted with rubies. The brooch has additional safety chain. Stamped "800" on the
Category

Early 20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Ruby, Silver

18 Karat Gold Vintage Edwardian Diamond 0.45 Carat Ruby Horse 0.65 Inch Brooch
Located in New York, NY
The Yellow and White Gold Diamond and Ruby Horse Stick Pin Brooch is a unique and beautiful piece
Category

Vintage 1930s British Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Edwardian 18kt White Gold Diamond + Calibrated Ruby Pin/Pendant
Located in Narberth, PA
A gorgeous pin/pendant from the Edwardian (ca1910s) era! Crafted in 18kt white gold, this piece
Category

Vintage 1910s Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Antique Ruby and Pearl 9 Carat Gold Crescent Brooch
Located in Chipping Campden, GB
This fabulous crescent brooch has seven rubies and six pearls set within the 9ct gold. The rubies
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, Gold

Edwardian Belle Epoque Gem Set Rose Cut Diamond Flower Basket Giardinetto Brooch
Located in London, GB
This brooch features blossom flowers on a basket. The brooch is set with natural rubies, emeralds
Category

Vintage 1910s Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Cartier Paris circa 1915 Platinum Gold Diamond and Ruby Clip Brooch
By Cartier
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1915 Cartier Paris Clip Brooch, measuring 1 1/4 inch in length and 3/4 inch wide, set with a
Category

Vintage 1910s French Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Platinum

Sublime Antique Ruby and Diamond Gold Bar Pin Brooch Estate Fine Jewelry
Located in Montreal, QC
Beautiful Edwardian Bar Pin centered by a Shamrock set with 3 Rubies and surrounded by sparkly rose
Category

Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Silver

Antique Platinum Diamond Bee Brooch
Located in North Hollywood, CA
This Platinum Diamond Bee Brooch is absolutely stunning. This is a very nice size and it is set
Category

Vintage 1910s Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Edwardian Giardinetti Pendant Pin in Platinum and 18K Yellow Gold, circa 1905
Located in New York, NY
karat yellow gold. This brooch from the Edwardian era features blossom flowers on a basket whose petals
Category

Early 20th Century Italian Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, Platinum, Yellow Gold

Antique Signed 14K Gold Ruby Fox Hunt / Riding Crop Equestrian Stick Pin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
two small rubies as eyes and platinum-topped to the tips of the crop. Signed with a partial maker's
Category

20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

Old or Antique Signed Figural 14k Gold Ruby Lion s Head Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine antique 14k gold stickpin. In the form of a lion's head with a round ruby prong set in
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold

Natural Ruby, Emerald, Citrine and Diamond Broach or Pendant in 14 Karat Gold.
Located in New York, NY
An attractive Ruby, Emerald , Citrine and White diamond broach/ pendant features a beautiful
Category

Antique 18th Century American Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Citrine, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 14k Gold

Antique Pearl and Ruby Stick Pin/Tie Pin in 9 Carat Yellow Gold
Located in London, GB
cultured-pearl in the center, surrounded by rubies. With endless possibilities, this versatile pin can be
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Tiffany and Co Rare Ruby and Diamond Vinatge Platinum Eighteen Karat Reverse Pin
By Tiffany Co.
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Tiffany & Co reverse stick pin One side is set with French cut rubies in 18k yellow gold
Category

Vintage 1910s American Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, 18k Gold

Antique Lion Stickpin of 14k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
detailed lion, a diamond clenched in its jaws and ruby eyes glowing with intensity. The design captures
Category

Vintage 1910s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

An Edwardian Diamond and Ruby Horseshoe Brooch
Located in London, GB
An Edwardian diamond and ruby horseshoe brooch, alternately set with groups of three calibre-cut
Category

Vintage 1910s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Faberge Enamel Ruby Diamond Gold Brooch
By Peter Carl Fabergé
Located in London, GB
A Fabergé ruby, diamond, enamel and gold brooch, the marquise shaped brooch with the Russian
Category

Early 20th Century Russian Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold

Edwardian Horse-Head Stick-Pin
Located in London, GB
An Edwardian horse-head stick-pin, the realistically carved horse head, set with a cabochon-cut
Category

Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold

Edwardian Tourmaline and Pearl Bee Brooch
Located in London, GB
An Edwardian tourmaline and pearl bee brooch, with faceted tourmaline set thorax and abdomen and
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, Tourmaline, Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Edwardian Ruby, Diamond and Sapphire Set Circular Gold Brooch
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
projected into their jewellery. This pretty Edwardian brooch features three single gems, one Sapphire, one
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold

Edwardian Ruby and Pearl Horseshoe Brooch, Circa 1909
Located in Lancashire, Oldham
A timeless and pretty Edwardian Ruby and Pearl horseshoe brooch with graduated interlocking circle
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Sweet Edwardian Ruby and Diamond Bar Pin
Located in Atlanta, GA
This sweet pin features a delicate design with clean intense reddish pink pear shaped rubies and
Category

20th Century American Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Edwardian 15ct Gold Peridot, Ruby and Pearl Suffragette Brooch, Circa 1905
Located in Lancashire, Oldham
A pretty and symbolic brooch this piece can be dated back to the early 20th century and its colours
Category

Antique Early 1900s Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Peridot, Ruby, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold

Edwardian Pearl and Multi-gem Brooch
Located in New York, NY
A charming brooch, as elegant as a piece of Edwardian jewelry is supposed to be. Two rows of pearls
Category

20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Cultured Pearl, Diamond, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Amethyst, 18k Gold

Edwardian Diamond Silver Gold Terrier Brooch
Located in London, GB
Pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds with a cabochon ruby eye, mounted in silver and gold, estimated
Category

Early 20th Century British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Silver

Ruby Gold Rococo Cherub Love Brooch
Located in London, GB
A beautifully modelled French 18ct gold brooch which is all about Love! The cherub is holding a
Category

20th Century French Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Edwardian Diamond Gemset Butterfly Pin
Located in Chestnut Hill, MA
Sterling silver on 18 karat yellow gold Edwardian butterfly pin consisting of 1 marquise cut
Category

20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Emerald, Sterling Silver, 18k Gold

Elegant Edwardian Diamond Horse Pin
Located in Chestnut Hill, MA
Platinum on 18 kt yellow gold antique diamond horse pin consisting of approximately 4.00 carats total weight total weight of old European cut diamonds. Elegantly modeled, realistical...
Category

20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Edwardian Sapphire and Diamond Gold Butterfly with Articulated Wings Brooch
Located in Agoura Hills, CA
A beautiful large Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Butterfly with articulated wings, set with an approx
Category

Early 20th Century American Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold

DIAMOND AND RUBY ROYAL YACHT SQUADRON BURGEE BROOCH
Located in New York, NY
An Exquisite Antique 18K Gold Diamond and Ruby Royal Yachting Squadron Burgee (Flag) Brooch with
Category

20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Edwardian Diamond Double Four Leaf Clover Flower Brooch
Located in London, GB
A gem-set double flower brooch, French, designed as a spray of two flowers composed of petals of
Category

Antique Early 1900s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Beautiful Vintage 9ct Gold Natural Opal Sapphire and Ruby Butterfly Brooch
Located in St Helens, GB
A very fine contemporary brooch of butterfly shape. Solid 9 carat yellow gold example. Designed
Category

20th Century Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Opal, Ruby, Sapphire

Crystal Mother-of-Pearl Ruby Diamond Gold Spaniel Brooch
Located in London, GB
A beautifully worked reverse intaglio crystal brooch from around 1910, with a very detailed
Category

Early 20th Century British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Natural Pearl, Rock Crystal, Ruby, 18k Gold

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Edwardian Ruby Brooch For Sale on 1stDibs

Surely you’ll find the exact edwardian ruby brooch you’re seeking on 1stDibs — we’ve got a vast assortment for sale. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from Gold, Platinum and Yellow Gold — can elevate any look. You’re likely to find the perfect edwardian ruby brooch among the distinctive items we have available, which includes versions made as long ago as the 18th Century as well as those produced as recently as the 20th Century. Finding an appealing edwardian ruby brooch — no matter the origin — is easy, but Bailey, Banks Biddle, Cartier and Peter Carl Fabergé each produced a popular version that is worth a look. An old european cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also round cut and rose cut versions for sale. If you’re browsing our inventory for a edwardian ruby brooch, you’ll find that many are available today for women, but there are still pieces to choose from for unisex and men.

How Much is a Edwardian Ruby Brooch?

On average, a edwardian ruby brooch at 1stDibs sells for $3,250, while they’re typically $259 on the low end and $51,709 for the highest priced versions of this item.

A Close Look at Edwardian Jewelry

Antique Edwardian jewelry is named for King Edward VII of Great Britain, who ruled from 1901 until 1910. Classic Edwardian necklaces, engagement rings, earrings and other jewelry are often overshadowed by the more popular style of the era, Art Nouveau, which is a shame. At its best, Edwardian jewelry was all about the exquisite diamond, platinum and pearl creations made by such famous names as Cartier and Boucheron.

Edward introduced incredibly formal Buckingham Palace court presentations, balls and soirées, resulting in a huge demand for diamond jewels starting with his coronation in 1902. Dozens of tiaras and formal jewels in an updated 18th-century style were purchased from French jewelers Boucheron and Chaumet and from Russia’s Fabergé. The court jewelers Asprey, Garrard, Carrington and the newly opened London branch of Cartier were all overwhelmed with orders for sumptuous diamond jewelry to be worn at the king’s elaborate coronation.

During the Edwardian era, pearls were more valuable than diamonds. The pear-shaped pearl La Peregrina, for example, belonged to some of the most fabulous and strongest women in history and bounced among royal courts in Spain, France and Russia for several centuries. So while today the scale and clarity of a diamond ring matters, back then the size and quantity of your pearls was more important a declaration of wealth. And just as Victorian notions of propriety and femininity began to change after Queen Victoria died in 1901, jewelry design also evolved but there was some overlap with late Victorian styles.

Women of the Edwardian period sported bejeweled headpieces like tiaras and bandeaus with feathered aigrettes. Another popular piece of jewelry that is said to have been directly inspired by Queen Alexandra were colliers de chien, or dog collars — today's choker necklaces — which consisted of either a ribbon decorated with a brooch, a gemstone or several strands of pearls strung closely together.

Two major jewelry houses, Cartier and Boucheron, were founded in the mid-1850s, and by the beginning of the 20th century, the wealthy considered them household names. The Cartier brand became even more desirable once the house became the official jewelry supplier to King Edward VII. Cartier took this title seriously and designed some of the most innovative jewelry of its day, since it was willing to experiment with new materials like platinum and because it was mindful of fashion trends. Filigree settings also became popular. This saw-piercing technique was decorative and at the same time created a sense of lightness.

Perhaps even more important than Cartier’s use of platinum was the founding of De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888. The discovery of new diamond mines made the stone more affordable and prompted the introduction of new gemstone cuts. It is not uncommon to see Edwardian jewels with baguette or briolette diamonds.

Find antique Edwardian rings, bracelets, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right Brooches for You

Vintage brooches, which refer to decorative jewelry traditionally pinned to garments and used to fasten pieces of clothing together where needed, have seen increasing popularity in recent years.

While jewelry trends come and go, brooches are indeed back on the radar thanks to fashion houses like GucciVersaceDior and Saint Laurent, all of which feature fun pinnable designs in their current collections. Whether a dazzlingly naturalistic Art Nouveau dragonfly, a whimsical David Webb animal, a gem-studded bloom or a streamlined abstract design, these jewels add color and sparkle to your look and a spring to your step. 

Given their long history, brooches have expectedly taken on a variety of different shapes and forms over time, with jewelers turning to assorted methods of ornamentation for these accessories, including enameling and the integration of pearls and gemstones. Cameo brooches that originated during the Victorian age are characterized by a shell carved in raised relief that feature portraits of a woman’s profile, while 19th-century micromosaic brooches, comprising innumerable individually placed glass fragments, sometimes feature miniature depictions of a pastoral scene in daily Roman life.

At one time, brooches were symbols of wealth, made primarily from the finest metals and showcasing exquisite precious gemstones. Today, these jewels are inclusive and universal, and you don’t have to travel very far to find an admirer of brooches. They can be richly geometric in form, such as the ornate diamond pins dating from the Art Deco era, or designer-specific, such as the celebrated naturalistic works created by Tiffany Co., the milk glass and gold confections crafted by Trifari or handmade vintage Chanel brooches of silk or laminated sheer fabric. Chanel, of course, has never abandoned this style, producing gorgeously baroque CC examples since the 1980s.

Brooches are versatile and adaptable. These decorative accessories can be worn in your hair, on hats, scarves and on the lower point of V-neck clothing. Pin a dazzling brooch to the lapel of your blazer-and-tee combo or add a cluster of smaller pins to your overcoat. And while brooches have their place in “mourning jewelry,” in that a mourning brooch is representative of your connection to a lost loved one, they’re widely seen as romantic and symbolic of love, so much so that a hardcore brooch enthusiast might advocate for brooches to be worn over the heart.

Today, find a wide variety of antique and vintage brooches for sale on 1stDibs, including gold brooches, sapphire brooches and more.