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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right Wrist-watches for You
Antique, vintage and luxury wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.
Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.
Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.
Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.
In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.
Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.
Find antique, vintage and luxury wristwatches for sale on 1stDibs.
- Where are Faberge watches made?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Faberge watches are made in Geneva, Switzerland. Faberge is Renowned for its luxury jewelry and timepieces and has enthusiasts and collectors worldwide. Shop a collection of antique and contemporary Faberge watches from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 2, 2021The best watch for ladies is dependent on personal choice and fashion preference. Many watches have been made over the years that feature a range of gemstones jewelry and stylish designs that can pair easily with different outfits. In fact, slim diamond watches with mother-of-pearl faces and pink leather straps aren’t for everyone. Although stylish women have been poaching men’s timepieces for years, adding instant swagger to any outfit, these days they’re the go-to among watch aficionadas, and not just for their implied status or rugged good looks. Shop a collection of vintage and designer watches from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Pocket watches come in a variety of sizes but the most popular sizes for women are 0s, 6s and 8s. Measuring pocket watches is a bit confusing and to make it easier a 0s is1.166”, a 6s is 1.367” and 8s is 1.433”. So it’s fairly safe to say that an average size for a woman’s pocket watch is between 1 and 1.5 inches. Find vintage and contemporary pocket watches from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 22, 2024To wear a bracelet with a ladies' watch, consider the look and fit of your timepiece. If your watch fits tightly at the wrist, selecting a looser bracelet, such as a bangle or a tennis bracelet, to wear above it can make a stylish pairing. In contrast, a looser watch might look appealing positioned above a close-hugging cuff. For a balanced look, choose a bracelet that is a different thickness than your watch. Think of two slender charm bracelets stacked above and below a chunky watch or a bracelet with large beads worn alongside a thinner watch. Metal finishes are another key consideration. If you want a more dramatic look, mix and match finishes, or select a bracelet in the same finish as your timepiece for a subtler statement. There really are no rules when it comes to layering watches, so feel free to experiment with different combinations to see what you like the best. Shop a diverse assortment of women's watches and bracelets on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertDecember 17, 2024Lady Elgin watches were made in the mid-20th century. In the 1930s, Elgin introduced its now iconic collection of timepieces for women, drawing inspiration for its name from its existing line of Lord Elgin watches for men. Elgin continued to make the watches until the company closed in 1964. On 1stDibs, shop a selection of Elgin watches.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, Patek Philippe also produces ladies’ watches. Patek Philippe is a Swiss luxury watch and clock manufacturer that produces men’s, women’s and unisex watches. Patek Philippe watches are available directly through Patek Philippe as well as through reputable retailers. Find a collection of Patek Philippe watches on 1stDibs.
Read More
The Rolex Datejust Is Celebrating Its 80th Anniversary
The watch has transformed several times over, but it’s still undeniably a classic.
The Rolex Bluesy
This is perhaps the least subtle version of the Submariner.
Rolex Starbucks
If you think this looks like the Rolex Kermit, you're correct.
The Rolex Hulk
This all-green version of the Submariner is much sought-after.
The Rolex Sprite
This model was designed for lefties.
The Rolex Pepsi
This model's other nickname, Pussy Galore, come from a James Bond film.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Watch Is an Icon of Understated Elegance
Launched in 1932, the model has become emblematic of quality craftsmanship and timeless design.
Bulgari’s Serpenti Wristwatch Is the Power Piece of the Moment, Again
From Elizabeth Taylor to Zendaya, the Serpenti has been the accessory of choice for generations of it girls.


