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Tiffany Co. Diamond Fish Brooch, 1.30 Carats
By Tiffany Co.
Located in New Orleans, LA
A rare example of Art Deco refinement, this exquisite fish-form brooch by Tiffany & Co. shimmers
Category

20th Century French Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Tiffany Company Large Yellow Gold Fish Cuff Links
By Tiffany Co.
Located in Chicago, IL
7/8 inch wide and having nicely detailed, applied fish with textured finish and Ruby Eyes. Comes
Category

Vintage 1970s American Cufflinks

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

Bvlgari Naturalia Multi Gem Fish Bracelet
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
, diamonds & rubies as fish Measurements: 7" long Diamond Weight: approximately 1.95 carats Ruby Weight
Category

1990s Italian Chain Bracelets

Materials

18k Gold

Gold-Plated Fish Pendant Desk Object
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in New York, NY
ruby for the fish eye Measurements: 4.25" long Stainless Steel In the style of Jean
Category

Vintage 1980s Unknown Animal Sculptures

Materials

Stainless Steel

Gold-Plated Fish Pendant 
Desk Object
Gold-Plated Fish Pendant 
Desk Object
$2,000
H 0.44 in W 4.25 in D 1 in
Jean Vitau Diamond Color Stone Large Angel Fish Yellow Gold Brooch
By Jean Vitau
Located in Southampton, PA
The authentic rare Jean Vitau 18k yellow gold diamond tsavorite yellow sapphire ruby Angel Fish
Category

1990s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Garnet, Tsavorite, Purple Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Indian 8.30 Ct Multigem Artful Fish Bangle 9 Ct Heavy Gold
Located in Napoli, IT
workmanship in the shape of a coiled fish with fine pierced work simulating the fish scales over the main body
Category

Vintage 1940s Indian Retro Bangles

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 9k Gold

Fish Brooch Pin Diamonds Onyx Art Deco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
This fish brooch pin features a central South Sea pearl of 16mm diameter. The body is sculpted in
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Artist Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

David Webb Platinum 18k Yellow Gold White Enamel Koi Fish Bangle Bracelet
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
the renowned David Webb. Crafted in the form of a graceful Koi fish, this masterpiece transcends
Category

20th Century American Modern Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Enamel

Blue Topaz Diamond Gold Koi Fish Pendant Necklace
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
surrounded by a diamond studded koi fish that wraps around the stone. The 18K rose gold koi fish has two ruby
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Topaz, Blue Topaz, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Gold

Art Deco Calvaire Invisibly Set Fish Earclips
By Calvaire
Located in New York, NY
Charming figural Calvaire invisibly set fish earclips with pink faux rubies and faux pearl bubbles
Category

Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Gold Plate, Base Metal, Gilt Metal

18K Yellow Gold Fancy Diamond Green Garnet Fish Brooch
By Althoff Jewelry
Located in Hong Kong, HK
Fancy Diamond & Ruby Fish 18K Rose Gold Brooch 16 Fancy Diamonds 1.50 CT 111 Green Garnet 1.81 CT
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Yellow Gold

Murano Red Fish Gold Fleck Coral Tendril Italian Art Glass Centerpiece Sculpture
By Seguso Vetri d Arte, Alfredo Barbini
Located in Kissimmee, FL
Gorgeous and monumental, vintage Murano hand blown ruby red fish with gold flecks Italian art glass
Category

Mid-20th Century Italian Mid-Century Modern Animal Sculptures

Materials

Gold Leaf

Gaetano Pesce Try-Tray Round Medium Dark Ruby Acid Green
By Corsi Design Factory, Gaetano Pesce
Located in barasso, IT
for Fish Design collection. Colours: Dark ruby, matt acid green Dimensions: Ø 31.5 cm Material: RESIN
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Tableware

Materials

Resin

Gaetano Pesce Try-Tray Rectangular Small Light Ruby Turquoise
By Gaetano Pesce, Corsi Design Factory
Located in barasso, IT
1998 for Fish Design collection. Colours: Clear ruby, matt turquoise Dimensions: 31cm x D 16cm
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Tableware

Materials

Resin

Gaetano Pesce Try-Tray Rectangular Large Light Ruby Ochre
By Gaetano Pesce, Corsi Design Factory
Located in barasso, IT
Fish Design collection. Colours: Clear ruby, ochre Dimensions: 56cm x D 36cm Material: RESIN Tray in
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Tableware

Materials

Resin

Gaetano Pesce Try-Tray Rectangular Large Light Ruby Ochre
Gaetano Pesce Try-Tray Rectangular Large Light Ruby Ochre
$274 / item
H 1.19 in W 22.05 in D 14.18 in
Gaetano Pesce Try-Tray Round Large Dark Ruby Acid Green
By Corsi Design Factory, Gaetano Pesce
Located in barasso, IT
for Fish Design collection. Colours: Dark ruby, matt acid green Dimensions: Ø 42 cm Material: RESIN
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Tableware

Materials

Resin

Russian Lapis Lazuli, Silver-Gilt and Gem-Set Paper Weight Desk Clock
Located in New York, NY
, supported by two gilt fish with ruby eyes atop an oval base with three floral scrolled accents, all on four
Category

Early 20th Century Desk Accessories

Materials

Lapis Lazuli, Ruby, Silver, Gilt Metal

Handmade 18 Carat Yellow and White Gold Kingfishers Brooch
Located in London, GB
just caught a fish. The birds have ruby eyes and are set with 1.29 carats of sapphires, 1.21 carats of
Category

2010s British Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Tsavorite, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Two Tone Fish Choker with Ruby
Located in Brooklyn, NY
contrasting elements. The centerpiece is a fish pendant adorned with a ruby, symbolizes good luck. Two Tones
Category

2010s American Modern Choker Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver

Cellino Leaping Ruby Diamond Gold Fish Brooch
By Cellino
Located in New York, NY
textured body; bright cabochon ruby eye; with a diamond-set fish tail. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2." Full of life
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Evil Eye Repeller Fish Necklace with Ruby
Located in Brooklyn, NY
of good luck and abundance, the evil eye. The fish pendant, graced with an ruby at its heart, gently
Category

2010s American Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver

Diamond and Platinum Fish Brooch with Ruby Eyes
Located in New York, NY
A lovely model of a platinum fish with diamond scales and a ruby eye.
Category

Vintage 1940s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Demner Dramatic Emerald Ruby Diamond Gold Fish Brooch
By Demner
Located in New York, NY
The fish is pave-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds, step-cut emerald and decorated with a
Category

Vintage 1980s Austrian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 15k Gold, 18k Gold

Vintage Enamel Diamond Ruby Yellow Gold Fish Ring
Located in Lombard, IL
Vintage enamel ruby diamond yellow gold and platinum ring - translucent green enamel over textured
Category

Vintage 1960s Unknown Post-War Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum

A Cartoon Fish Brooch in Gold, Ruby and Wood
Located in London, GB
Ruby eye. The fins and tail are in 18K Gold and the reverse of the upper fin is stamped 750 and there
Category

Vintage 1950s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Yvonne Leon s Ring Fish with Diamonds Ruby and 18 Karat Gold
By Yvonne Leon
Located in Paris, FR
Ring in 18 carats Yellow and White Gold 16gr approx. Diamonds 0,40 carats approx. Ruby 0,30 carats
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

18K Gold Pigeon Blood Ruby Diamonds Emerald Blue Sapphires Large Fish Brooch Pin
Located in Boca Raton, FL
18K Gold Pigeon Blood Ruby Diamonds Emerald Blue Sapphires Large Fish Brooch Pin 105 round Pigeon
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Gold Pelican Enamel Pin with Ruby Eye and Pave Diamond Fish
Located in New York, NY
Pelican in flight with green and blue enamel with a pave diamond fish present in the mouth
Category

Vintage 1960s Unknown Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Black Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Multi-Stone Sapphire, Amethyst, Citrine, Aqua Diamond Ruby Fish Pin in 18 Karat
Located in Atlanta, GA
A rainbow of sapphires, amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, citrines, diamonds and a ruby
Category

Vintage 1980s Unknown Modern Brooches

Materials

Citrine, Diamond, Peridot, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Hammerman Fish Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Hammerman and Bros. 18k Yellow Fish Brooch. The body of the fish is carved onyx te resemble scales
Category

1990s American Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Onyx, 18k Gold

Chopard 18 Karat Yellow Gold Rubies and Sapphires Fish Ring
By Chopard
Located in New York, NY
Chopard Happy Diamonds Fish Ring Model Number: 82/5441-0109 100% Authentic Brand New Comes with
Category

Early 2000s Swiss Fashion Rings

Materials

18k Gold

Paris Craft House Ruby Diamond Lucky Fish Ring in 18 Karat White and Rose Gold
By Paris Precious Craft House
Located in Hong Kong, HK
Crafted in 18K Rose Gold, The Lucky KOI is a breathtaking one to behold. The Koi fish represent
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold

Gemset Gold Fish Brooch by Cellino
By Cellino
Located in New York, NY
Figural leaping fish brooch. Signed by Cellino. Very realistic. Shining and iridescent 18K gold
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Gemset Gold Fish Brooch by Cellino
Gemset Gold Fish Brooch by Cellino
$2,800
W 1.33 in L 1.33 in
18 Karat Yellow Gold Schlumberger Fish Brooch
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Co.
Located in Chestnut Hill, MA
18 karat yellow gold fish brooch consisting of full gem ruby, turquoise and tsavorite garnet and
Category

Mid-20th Century French Retro Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Tsavorite, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Jean Vitau 18 Karat Multicolored Stone Fish Brooch
By Jean Vitau
Located in New York, NY
Using the very unique color combination of Blue Sapphire, Ruby and Peridot with a dash of diamonds
Category

Early 2000s American Modern Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Peridot, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold

Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin 14 Karat Gold Emerald Reflection Fish Brooch
By Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin
Located in San Diego, CA
fish eye is made of a 2mm round ruby surrounded by 0.015 carat total weight of diamonds. Very
Category

Vintage 1940s American Retro Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Pair of Pins --Gold and Jadeite Fish Swimming In The Sea
Located in New York, NY
Adorable pair of figural fish pins. The fish are carved jadeite, with faceted ruby eyes, swimming
Category

Vintage 1950s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Jade, Ruby, 18k Gold

Mauboussin 1939 New York World’s Fair Multicolored Sapphire Fish Brooch
By Mauboussin
Located in Greenwich, CT
cabochon-cut ruby 'eye', in 18k yellow gold and platinum. This fish motif brooch was an iconic 1939 New
Category

Mid-20th Century French Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Diamond, Enamel, Ruby and Gold Sailfish
Located in Santa Fe, NM
A stunning diamond-set sailfish with a blue enamel fin and ruby eye. The fish is set with
Category

Late 20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Diamond, Enamel, Ruby and Gold Sailfish
$3,200
W 2.5 in D 0.5 in L 1.5 in
18kt gold and gem-set fish brooch by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
By Aldo Cipullo for Cartier
Located in London, GB
18kt gold fish brooch by Cipullo for Cartier. Set with 10 cabochon rubies weighing approximately
Category

Vintage 1970s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Red Coral Reef Fish Ring in Pink E-Coated 18k White Gold
Located in Valenza, IT
We must consider the deep connection that fish have with the element of water to comprehend what
Category

2010s Italian Artisan Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, Tsavorite, 1...

4.25 Carat Polki Diamond Pendant in Silver, 14 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
fish in the center made out of champagne diamonds and the eye of the fish is made with ruby. The base
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold, Silver

Wedgwood Fairyland Lustre Vase
By Wedgwood Fairyland Lustre
Located in Chelmsford, Essex
comical, accident-prone 'firbolgs'. The inside of the rim features three colorful fish. Ruby ground with
Category

Vintage 1920s English Art Deco Vases

Materials

Ceramic

Ruby Emerald Diamond Fish Brooch
Located in Chevy Chase, MD
Beautifully crafted diamond ruby and emerald eyes fish brooch set in 18k yellow gold. The diamonds
Category

20th Century Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Ruby Emerald Diamond Fish Brooch
$6,850
W 0.75 in L 2.5 in
Tiffany Co. Ruby Gold Fish Earrings
By Tiffany Co.
Located in Greenwich, CT
earrings. Hanging from tiny fish hooks, these 18 karat yellow gold undulating fish, with ruby eyes
Category

Vintage 1970s American Dangle Earrings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Tiffany Co. Gold Fish Brooch with Rubies
By Tiffany Co.
Located in Darnestown, MD
Wonderfully whimsical gold fish brooch by Tiffany with ruby highlights throughout the body and a
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Ruby Diamond Sapphire Yellow Gold Fish Earrings
Located in Stamford, CT
18k yellow gold fish earrings with bright yellow and blue Sapphires, rubies and diamonds. 2
Category

Vintage 1970s Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Baroque Pearl Diamond Ruby Gold Fish Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
pearl that is even shaped with a tail. It has two large cabochon ruby eyes that mesmerize all who look
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Sapphire and Ruby Gem Set Angel Fish Brooch
Located in Bethesda, MD
An exceptionally crafted angel fish brooch. The 18 karat brooch is set with square rubies and
Category

Vintage 1980s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Elegant 18k White Gold Ruby Diamond Fish Brooch
Located in New York, NY
fish's body and eye, while three lines of rubies gracefully embellish its tail.With a total weight of 9.2
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Ruby Emerald Diamond Multicolor Gold Fish Bangle Bracelet
Located in Southampton, PA
primarily of 18K yellow gold, but the fish boasts white gold fins set with diamonds. Lastly, ruby eyes, and
Category

20th Century Bangles

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Asprey 18 Karat Yellow Gold 1 Ruby Fish Brooch
By Asprey International Limited
Located in Southampton, PA
that takes the form of a fish. The brooch is exquisitely made of 18K yellow gold and it is embellished
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold

Illias Lalaounis Diamond Ruby Yellow Gold Fish Bangle Bracelet
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Diamond Ruby Fish Bangle Bracelet by Ilias LaLaounis. Made in Greece. With 60
Category

20th Century Greek Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Asprey 18 Karat Yellow Gold 1 Ruby Fish Brooch
By Asprey International Limited
Located in Southampton, PA
that takes the form of a fish. The brooch is exquisitely made of 18K yellow gold and it is embellished
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Bulgari Naturalia Diamond Ruby Fish Yellow Gold Band Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Naturalia Fish Diamond And Ruby Band Ring by Bulgari. With 20 round brilliant cut
Category

20th Century Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Tiffany Co. Gem Set Ruby Diamond Gold Fish Brooch
By Tiffany Co.
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1960s 18k Yellow Gold fish brooch by Tiffany and Company, nicely detailed and set with
Category

Vintage 1960s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Roberto Coin Ruby Diamond Gold Nemo Fish Bangle Bracelet
By Roberto Coin
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Nemo Diamond & Ruby Bangle Bracelet by Roberto Coin. With round brilliant cut
Category

2010s Italian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

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Fish Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate fish ruby for your needs in our varied inventory. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. Our collection of these items for sale includes 128 vintage editions and 33 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect fish ruby may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. A fish ruby from Bulgari, Tiffany Co. and Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Co. — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. A round cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also brilliant cut and cabochon versions for sale. Finding a fish ruby for sale for women should be easy, but there are 56 pieces available to browse for unisex as well as men, too.

How Much is a Fish Ruby?

Prices for a fish ruby can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $543 and can go as high as $65,800, while this accessory, on average, fetches $2,995.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.