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Bulgari Naturalia Diamond and Ruby Gold Fish Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Southampton, PA
diamonds among which a single ruby exudes its passionate allure. Ring Size: 6.5
Category

Late 20th Century Italian More Rings

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Naturalia Diamond Ruby Fish Yellow Gold Band Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Naturalia Fish Diamond And Ruby Band Ring by Bulgari. With 20 round brilliant cut
Category

20th Century Italian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage Ruby Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Fish Hook Brooch
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Center Stone: Marquise Cut Ruby Weight: Approximately .40 Carat Accent Stone: 32 Round Brilliant
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Fabulous Koi Fish and Oval Ruby Drop Vermeil Earrings
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Fabulous Koi Fish and Oval Ruby Drop Vermeil Earrings These earrings feature 2 beautiful pink-ish
Category

2010s Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Topaz, 18k Gold, Rhodium, Sterling Silver, Vermeil

1960s Ruby 18 Karat Rose Gold Fish Charm Pendant
Located in Poitiers, FR
fish in movement. The eyes are 2 round rubies. Height : 2,4 cm, width : 15,7 mm, thickness : 6,5 mm
Category

Vintage 1960s French Retro Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Tiffany Co. Schlumberger Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Koi Fish Cufflinks
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Co.
Located in Simpsonville, SC
The Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Koi Fish Cufflinks are a magnificent example of
Category

20th Century Cufflinks

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari Naturalia Collection Fish Motif Diamond Necklace with Ruby Eye
By Bulgari
Located in Mayfair, London, London
A unique diamond necklace from the Naturalia collection by Bvlgari. The necklace features a fish
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Spectacular Tiffany Co. Schlumberger Peridot Turquoise Ruby Gold Fish Brooch
By Tiffany Co.
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
peridot, turquoise, ruby and crafted in 18k yellow gold.
Category

Vintage 1950s American Brooches

Materials

Peridot, Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Chopard Happy Sport Fish 27/8921-402 Watch Sapphire Rubies #20960
By Chopard
Located in Washington Depot, CT
"floating fish" 7 blue sapphires - .05cts 7 yellow sapphires - .05cts 7 rubies - .05cts Water resistant to
Category

20th Century Contemporary Wrist Watches

Materials

Ruby, Stainless Steel

Bulgari Bvlgari Diamond Blue Topaz Ruby Yellow Gold Naturalia Fish Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Diamond Blue Topaz & Ruby "Naturalia" Fish Ring by Bulgari. With 16 Diamonds
Category

20th Century Italian Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Topaz, 18k Gold

Art Nouveau Pave Diamond Ruby 14 Karat Gold Fish Charm
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Charm is designed as a fish pavè set throughout by diamonds and accented by a ruby eye Gemstones
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Charm Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Yellow Gold Emeralds Rubies Sapphires Diamonds Fish Bracelet
By AVGVSTA
Located in Milano, IT
a fish, the animal’s majestic features are enriched with the eyes made of diamonds and embellished
Category

2010s Italian Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18...

Joseph Walmsley Burmantofts Faience Ruby Lustre Fish Plaque
By Burmantofts Pottery
Located in Bishop s Stortford, Hertfordshire
A rare Burmantofts faience ruby lustre wall plaque decorated with a scaly fish within a scroll work
Category

Antique 1880s English Decorative Art

Materials

Pottery

Chopard Diamond Sapphire Ruby and Paraiba Tourmaline Gold Fish Pendant Necklace
By Chopard
Located in Southampton, PA
This Chopard necklace is made of 18K rose gold and presented with a 16” chain, onto which a fish
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Ruby Diamond Platinum-Topped 14 Karat Two-Tone Gold Fish Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a fish with graduated round ruby scales and eyes, total ruby weight approximately 0.30
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Modernist Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

1980 s Diamond Ruby Peridot Coral 18K Gold Fish Link Choker Necklace
Located in Miami, FL
Heavy Retro Fish inspired Link Choker Necklace, This elegant 1980's piece has 21 salmon color
Category

Vintage 1980s Modern Choker Necklaces

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Peridot, Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage Koi Fish Wrap Ring with Diamonds and Ruby in Yellow Gold
Located in Coral Gables, FL
18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Koi Fish Ring Featuring 19 Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds of SI Clarity
Category

Mid-20th Century Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Mecan Elde Ruby and Diamond Fish Brooch Set in 18k Yellow Gold
By Mecan Elde
Located in London, GB
An extremely charming Mecan Elde ruby and diamond fish brooch set in 18k yellow gold, circa 1990
Category

20th Century British Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Gold, 18k Gold

Chopard Stainless Steel Happy Sport Multi Sapphire Ruby Fish
By Chopard
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
: Chopard pink Happy Sport rubber strap, buckle Dial: blue fish, floating sapphire and ruby fish Reference
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Wrist Watches

Materials

Stainless Steel

14 Karat Yellow Gold Yellow Sapphire Ruby and Diamond Fish Pendant Necklace
Located in Houston, TX
This clown fish pendant is made in 14k yellow gold with a black rhodium finish and features round
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Rhodium

David Webb 18K Gold Platinum Diamond Fish Cocktail Ring Ruby Eyes Black Enamel
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
gold and platinum in a coiling fish motif featuring a black enamel lattice pattern and cabochon ruby
Category

Late 20th Century Unknown Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Koi Fish Enamel Ruby Ring Vintage 18 Karat Gold Estate Fine Jewelry Pre Owned
Located in Torrance, CA
Finely detailed koi fish ring, crafted in 18 karat yellow gold. Rubies are set into the eyes and
Category

Mid-20th Century Unknown Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Gold Pink Sapphire Diamond Ruby Pave Fish Pin Scarf Clip Piscis Brooch
By Intini Jewels
Located in Milano, IT
sapphires, diamonds and a rubies. This brooch is inspired by the tale of The Fisherman and the Fish. The
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Classical Roman Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold

Nardi 1950 s 0.42 Carat Diamond Ruby 18 Karat Two-Tone Vintage Fish Brooch
By Giulio Nardi
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Brooch is designed as a swimming fish featuring a scaled body with fine engraving throughout
Category

Vintage 1950s Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Gemstone Gold Fish Brooch
Located in Southampton, PA
Playful and pretty, this lavishly designed fish is perfect for the lady who likes to shine! The
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Emerald, Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari Roma Fish Pesce Ring in 18Kt Two Tones Gold with Diamonds and Ruby
By Bulgari
Located in Miami, FL
A ring in the shape of a fish designed by Bvlgari. Very youthful vintage piece created by the
Category

Late 20th Century Italian Modernist Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari Naturalia Fish Diamond Ruby and Pink Tourmaline Yellow Gold Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Southampton, PA
includes sparkling 0.30ct diamonds, a gorgeous ruby and a mesmerizing pink tourmaline stone that gives the
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold

Tiffany Co. Fish Scale Earpendants
Located in San Antonio, TX
18k gold earpendants designed as 2 fish with Rubio eyes suspended from hooks. Signed . Studs.8500
Category

Vintage 1980s American Dangle Earrings

Materials

Ruby

1960s Gem Set Fish Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa: 1960s 14K Yellow and White Gold Fish Brooch, in the style of Schlumberger, very whimsical
Category

Vintage 1960s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Tourmaline, 14k Gold

1960s Gem Set Fish Brooch
1960s Gem Set Fish Brooch
$3,895
W 0.88 in L 2.5 in
Bulgari Naturalia Fish Collection Pin
By Bulgari
Located in Napoli, NA
cut diamonds and a red ruby for an eye forming the body of a small fish, this fantastic piece is part
Category

Mid-20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold

18K Yellow Gold 0.74ct Diamond Tsavorite Ruby Sapphire Fish Brooch MF11-071825
By LB Exclusive
Located in Southampton, PA
This charming fish brooch will add a stylish splash of color to any ensemble. Crafted from 18K
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Gemstone Yellow Gold Fish Brooch
Located in Southampton, PA
Playful and pretty, this lavishly designed fish is perfect for the lady who likes to shine! The
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Multicolor Gold Gemstone Fish Pendant
Located in Southampton, PA
gold. Lastly, the fish is set with a pave of diamonds and boasts a single, ruby eye. Diamond Carat
Category

20th Century Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

JUDITH LEIBER Diamond set Fish Brooch
By Judith Leiber
Located in Chicago, IL
18K Yellow gold, Diamond and Ruby set Fish Brooch by Judith Leiber, set with 3 carats total weight
Category

1990s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Crown Trifari 1950s Vivid Baby Tropical Fish Red Ruby Crystal Eye Gold Brooch
By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
Located in Wokingham, England
Crown Trifari 1950s Vivid Baby Tropical Fish Red Ruby Crystal Eye Brooch, Gold Tone Very good
Category

Vintage 1950s American Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Gold Plate

Crown Trifari 1950s Vivid Baby Tropical Fish Red Ruby Crystal Eye Gold Brooch
By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
Located in Wokingham, England
Crown Trifari 1950s Vivid Baby Tropical Fish Red Ruby Crystal Eye Brooch, Gold Tone Very good
Category

Vintage 1950s American Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Gold Plate

Italian Yellow Gold Fish Hidden Compartment Pendant
Located in Miami, FL
Stunning fish pendant crafted in Italy in yellow gold with two ruby red eyes. The articulated
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

French 18k Gold Carved Quartz Fish Drop Earrings
Located in Palm Beach, FL
yellow gold open-work frame accented by cabochon-cut natural rubies on the front and back. The fish drops
Category

2010s French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Quartz, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

BULGARI Diamond Tourmaline Naturalia Fish Yellow Gold Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Diamond & Tourmaline "Naturalia" Fish Ring by Bulgari. With 16 Diamonds, G Color
Category

20th Century Italian Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Tourmaline, 18k Gold

Blue Enamel Fish Brooch 18K Yellow White Gold
Located in Dallas, TX
Blue Enamel Fish Brooch in 18K Yellow and White Gold. The brooch is accented by approximately
Category

Vintage 1980s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

18 Karat Yellow Gold Multi-Gemstone Fish Brooch
Located in Southampton, PA
Playful and pretty, this lavishly designed fish is perfect for the lady who likes to shine! The
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Turquoise, Multi-gemstone, 18k Gold, Yello...

Tiffany Co. Koi Fish 18k Yellow Gold Ring
By Tiffany Co.
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
. ring has an 18k freeform band crafted into the shape of two koi fish with white enamel filled scales
Category

Mid-20th Century American Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Retro Period 18KT Yellow Gold Enamel Fish Wrap Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
Retro Enamel Diamond and Ruby Fish Cuff Bracelet is a striking display of artistry. This
Category

Mid-20th Century Retro Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Enamel

1960s Tiffany Schlumberger Gold Fish Pendant Necklace Lighter Pillbox Container
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Co.
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
of 14 karat (tested) yellow gold, the fish's eyes are accented with a ruby and a sapphire. The fish
Category

Vintage 1960s French Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Yellow Gold

School of Fish Bangle in 18k Yellow Gold, circa 1970s
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
whimsical design of intricately detailed fish, each with a sparkling round brilliant-cut ruby set as an eye
Category

20th Century Bangles

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

18k Yellow Gold Vintage Diamond and Pearl Koi Fish Brooch
Located in New York, NY
An embellished koi fish pin brooch features a cultured pearl, accented with round diamonds, a ruby
Category

20th Century Unknown Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Tiffany Co. Jean Schlumberger Iconic Gold and Gem Set Fish Brooch
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Co.
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1970 Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Company 18K Yellow Gold Fish Brooch, measuring 2 3/8
Category

Vintage 1970s American Brooches

Materials

Peridot, Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Vintage 1970s 18KT Yellow Gold Angel Fish Diamond Cuff Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
yellow gold, featuring a harmonious blend of round white diamonds, rubies, coral, and mother of pearl
Category

Late 20th Century Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Sapphire and Diamond Fish Clip Brooch by Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany Co.
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Co.
Located in Boston, MA
white diamonds fish "gills", 5 accenting green demantoid garnet fish "scales" and 2 cabochon ruby fish
Category

Mid-20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Garnet, Sapphire, Yellow Gold

1970s Diamond Ruby Sapphire Marlin Pin
Located in Miami, FL
This vivacious lapel brooch pin incorporates a pair of fish adorned with rubies and blue sapphires
Category

Vintage 1970s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Tiffany Co. Yellow Gold Fish Vintage Cufflinks
By Tiffany Co.
Located in New York, NY
gold panel design with applied hand-carved fish, and round cut genuine ruby eyes. Designer: Tiffany
Category

20th Century Modern Cufflinks

Materials

Yellow Gold

Vintage 18 Karat Gold Brooch/Pendant in the Shape of a Fish, circa 1970s
Located in Braintree, GB
Vintage 18k gold brooch/pendant in the shape of a fish, decorated with emeralds, rubies, and
Category

Vintage 1970s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Levian 4.50 Carat Diamond Multi-Gem 18 Karat White Gold Fish Pendant or Brooch
By Le Vian
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a tropical fish with a round cut pink sapphire set body, weighing approximately 3.70
Category

Late 20th Century Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

JUDITH LEIBER 18K Yellow Gold Enamel Fish Brooch
By Judith Lieber
Located in New York, NY
& green hues over a lively fish with cabochon ruby eye. The brooch is extremely well made with cut out
Category

20th Century American Modern Brooches

Materials

Yellow Gold, Enamel

Rare 1962 Georges Braque Arethusa Ruby Gold Ring
By Georges Braque
Located in Paris, FR
. Each fish bears a ruby for his eye. "Bijoux de Braque" is a project of the famous french painter
Category

Vintage 1960s French Modern Bridal Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Bulgari 18K Yellow Gold Amethyst Diamonds Naturalia Fish Ring
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
18k Yellow Gold Diamond Amethyst & Ruby "Naturalia" Fish Ring by Bulgari. Set with 16 Diamonds
Category

2010s Italian Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Yellow Gold

Tiffany Co. Platinum 18k Yellow Gold Schlumberger Sapphire Koi Fish Brooch
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in New York, NY
beautiful koi fish swimming. The eyes of the fish are mounted with rubies, adding a brilliant touch of red
Category

20th Century French Modern Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

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Fish Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate fish ruby for your needs in our varied inventory. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. Our collection of these items for sale includes 128 vintage editions and 33 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect fish ruby may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. A fish ruby from Bulgari, Tiffany Co. and Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Co. — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. A round cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also brilliant cut and cabochon versions for sale. Finding a fish ruby for sale for women should be easy, but there are 56 pieces available to browse for unisex as well as men, too.

How Much is a Fish Ruby?

Prices for a fish ruby can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $543 and can go as high as $65,800, while this accessory, on average, fetches $2,995.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.