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Ruby Diamond Star of David 18k White Gold Pendant
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A captivating Star of David pendant necklace showcasing an array of invisible-set rubies in its
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Exceptional Mazer Corsage Brooch
By Mazer Bros
Located in New York, NY
Exceptional Mazer Corsage Brooch from the 1950's. Designed as a cascading vine of invisibly set
Category

Vintage 1950s American Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Rhodium

Burma Ruby and Diamond Invisible Set Bracelet
Located in Chicago, IL
This elegant line bracelet features multiple rows of vibrant, square-cut red rubies in an invisible
Category

1990s Burmese Art Deco Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Ruby Diamond Hat Motif 18K Yellow Gold Convertible Brooch Pin Pendant
Located in Miami, FL
18K yellow gold mounting showcases whimsical hat motif with invisible-set rubies creating smooth
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Quadrillion Invisibly Set Diamond 1.36Ct Ruby 4.31Ct Ring
By Bez Ambar
Located in New York, NY
and 2 trillion diamonds weighing 0.30 carats. The pyramid style shank is invisibly set with 4.31
Category

1990s American Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Natural 3 Ct Ruby 4 Ct Diamond Necklace 18 Karat Yellow Gold 75 Grams, 18 Inc
Located in New York, NY
Princess cut rubies Total diamond weight is approximately 4 ct Necklace has princess cut invisible set
Category

2010s Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Natural 7Ct Ruby 2 Ct Diamond Necklace 18 Karat Yellow Gold with Ring 68 Grams
Located in New York, NY
invisible set Princess cut rubies Total diamond weight is approximately 2 ct Necklace has 7 Sectors of
Category

2010s Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Invisible set Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Bypass Bombay Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
set with very fine color stepped cut Rubies totaling 3 carats and round brilliant cut Diamonds
Category

Early 2000s Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Invisible set Fine Ruby and Diamond Leaf Earrings set in Yellow Gold
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 2000 18k Yellow Gold Leaf Form Earrings, measuring 1 1/8 x 7/8 inch, invisible set with fine
Category

Early 2000s American Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

A Van Cleef Arpels Invisibly-Set Mystery Ruby Diamond Platinum Bracelet
By Van Cleef Arpels
Located in New York, NY
The highly flexible invisibly-set calibré-cut ruby four-row band, with diamond collet trim, mounted
Category

Vintage 1960s French Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

18K Yellow Gold Ring with Invisible-Set Diamond Center Ruby Accents
Located in Coral Gables, FL
elegant invisible-set design. At the center, 4 princess cut diamonds of VS clarity and H color are
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Cellini 18kt Yellow Gold Invisibly Set 6.85ct. Ruby 3.69ct. Diamond Earrings
By Cellini
Located in New York, NY
A very classic pair of half hoop earrings. These 18 karat yellow gold earrings are invisibly set
Category

1990s Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18k White Gold Invisible Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Wide Band Ring
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (16) Natural Genuine Ruby - Square French Cut - Invisible Mystery Set - Vivid Deep
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Solid White Gold Invisible Set 5.56ctw Ruby Diamond Large Enhancer Pendant Chain
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (25) Natural Genuine Ruby - Square Cut - Invisible Set -Vivid Pinkish Red Color
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, White Gold

18k White Gold Invisible Set 1.75ctw Ruby Diamond Elongated Cushion Shape Ring
Located in Montclair, NJ
–Stone(s): – (6) Natural Genuine Ruby - Square Cut - Invisible Set - Pinkish Red Color - 1.20ctw
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

18 Karat Yellow Gold Invisible Set Pigeons Blood Ruby and Diamond Ring
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
: 36 invisible set square faceted cut = 3.24cttw Ruby: 1 pear cut = .52ct Color: Pigeons Blood Clarity
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Gold Frog Brooch with Invisibly Set Tsavorites, Diamonds, and Rubies
Located in New York, NY
18 karat yellow gold frog brooch beautifully set with 0.81 carats of invisibly set square cut
Category

1990s Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Tsavorite, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Gold 4.81 Carat Diamond and Ruby "Invisible-Set" Stud Earrings
By Gems Paradise
Located in Jaipur, IN
18 Karat Gold 4.81 Carat Diamond and Ruby "Invisible-Set" Stud Earrings This spectacular wine red
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Diamond Ruby Halo Invisible Set Marquise Shape Drop 14K White Gold Earrings
By Unbranded
Located in Oakton, VA
She will adore the Art Deco style brilliant sparkle of these romantic diamond and natural ruby drop
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Art Deco Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

14 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Ring Princess Cut Invisible Set
By Gregory Mikaelian Sons, Inc.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
.91pts. invisible set and 28 round full cut diamonds of very fine quality weighing .40pts. This ring is
Category

1990s American Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

18K Yellow Gold Princess Cut Invisible Set Diamond Oval Ruby Engagement Ring
Located in Los Angeles, CA
oval shaped ruby that is tension set in the center. The ruby is great in color, and also very fiery
Category

2010s American Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18K Yellow and White Gold, Ruby and Invisible Set Diamond Dome Ring
Located in Palm Beach, FL
with a dome of eighteen invisible set Princess Cut diamonds. With all diamonds having a total
Category

Late 20th Century Unknown Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

18k White Gold 4.09ctw Invisible Mystery Set Ruby Diamond East West Saddle Ring
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (28) Natural Genuine Rubies - Calibre Custom Cut - Invisible Mystery Set - Seep
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Charles Krypell 18 Karat Yellow Gold Invisibly Set 2.25Ct. Ruby and Diamond Ring
By Charles Krypell
Located in New York, NY
craftsmanship featuring invisibly set baguette cut rubies and round brilliant diamonds. The 3 sections of rubies
Category

Vintage 1980s American Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Yellow Gold Invisibly Set Diamond 2.00 Carat and Ruby 4.19 Carat Ring
Located in New York, NY
. Highlighting the center are 4.19 carats of invisibly set square cut rubies. All of the square cut stones are
Category

1990s Contemporary Wedding Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Retro 1940s Invisible Set Square Ruby and Diamond Dome Ring 18K Yellow Gold
Located in beverly hills, CA
A stunning Retro ring showcasing a cluster of pigeon blood colored rubies, invisible set in a
Category

Mid-20th Century Retro Dome Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18K Gold 1.40ct Squared Ruby 0.08ct Diamond Invisible Pendant
Located in เกาะสมุย, TH
A beautiful and quality stylish pendant enhancer with invisible squared ruby set neatly with
Category

20th Century Thai Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

18K Gold 1.25ct Squared Ruby 0.15ct Diamond Invisible Pendant
Located in เกาะสมุย, TH
A beautiful and quality stylish pendant enhancer. Halo invisible squared ruby set neatly with
Category

20th Century Thai Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Trifari Alfred Philippe Invisibly Set Bracelet
By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
Located in New York, NY
Trifari Alfred Philippe Invisibly set KTF ruby leaf Art Deco bracelet. The articulated links
Category

Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Link Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Rhodium, Base Metal

Trifari Alfred Philippe Invisibly Set Brooch
By Trifari
Located in New York, NY
Trifari Alfred Philippe Invisibly set KTF ruby leaf art deco brooch. Bar form composed of three
Category

Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Rhodium, Base Metal, Gilt Metal

18 Karat Gold Humming Bird Brooch with Invisibly Set Diamonds and Gem Stones
Located in New York, NY
of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and blue sapphires. The combination of the different cut stones
Category

1990s Italian Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

30 Carat Mystery Set Ruby Diamond Dangle Earrings
By Vivid Diamonds
Located in Miami, FL
mesmerizing array of 700 impeccably invisibly set square cut rubies, each radiating with an intense crimson
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modern Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Channel Set 8 Row Ruby Flower-Cut Cocktail Ring with Marquise Diamonds, 18K
Located in New York, NY
An Invisibly Set 8 Row Ruby Flower-Cut Cocktail Ring with Marquise Diamonds made in 18K Yellow Gold
Category

20th Century Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Sasha Primak 18kt WG Ruby 2.99ct Diamond 2.60ct Cuff Links/Studs Dress Set
By Sasha Primak
Located in New York, NY
invisibly set square cut rubies and baguette cut diamonds in a checkerboard pattern. The 4 studs match the
Category

Early 2000s American Modern Cufflinks

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Luxe Ruby Panel Diamond Ring in 14k
Located in Bloomington, MN
channel-set square-cut rubies arranged in an invisible-set design. The rubies total 2.22ctw and create a
Category

Late 20th Century Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

Luxe Ruby Panel 
Diamond Ring in 14k
Luxe Ruby Panel 
Diamond Ring in 14k
$2,556 Sale Price
20% Off
SeidenGang Ruby Diamond 18k Yellow Gold Ring
By SeidenGang
Located in Orlando, FL
18K yellow gold ring features a panel of fifteen invisibly set square-cut rubies, weighing
Category

1990s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef Arpels Art Deco Diamond Ruby Ring
By Van Cleef Arpels
Located in New York, NY
  baguette-cut diamonds that extend across the shoulders. The ring is further enhanced by invisibly set 20
Category

Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

18K Yellow Gold Modernist Ruby Diamond Dangle Earrings, 12.50 Carats
Located in Queens, NY
18K Yellow Gold Ruby Diamond Dangle Earrings, featuring 162 invisibly set square faceted rubies
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Modernist Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

$4800 Rare Important 18KT Gold Ruby Pink Sapphire Heart Pendant Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Set Glittering Diamonds with Rubies and Pink Sapphires in Marquis Diamond Pattern Swirls. The Diamonds
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Pink Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold

Charles Krypell 18 Karat Yellow Gold 1.22 Carat Ruby Heart Pendant
By Charles Krypell
Located in New York, NY
gold heart is set with invisibly set tapered ruby baguettes. The heart slides on a 16" yellow gold
Category

1990s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Contemporary 18K Yellow Gold Ruby Diamond Fan Earrings, USA, 2018
Located in New York, NY
is crafted in highly polished 18K yellow gold and embellished with 18 “invisibly set” baguette rubies
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American More Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

0.81 Carat Diamond/0.97 Carat Rubies 18 Karat Gold Pendant
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Square Shape Diagonal Pendant with 9 Invisible Set Princess Cut Rubies (Total Gem Weight
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

0.39 Carat Diamond/0.40 Carat Rubies 18 Karat Gold Pendant
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Square Shape Diagonal Pendant with 4 Invisible Set Princess Cut Rubies (Total Gem Weight
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

0.42 Carat Diamond/0.46 Carat Ruby 18 Karat Gold Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Cushion Shape Diagonal Pendant with 4 Invisible Set Princess Cut Rubies (Total Gem Weight
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Sabbadini 18 Karat Yellow Gold, 6.26 Carat Ruby and .75 Carat Diamond Ring
By Sabbadini
Located in New York, NY
style. Vibrant invisibly set square cut rubies highlight the center bezel set oval ruby. Diamond
Category

1990s Italian Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Rose Gold 6.38 Carat Ruby and Diamond Modified Hoop Earrings
By Gems Paradise
Located in Jaipur, IN
ruby and invisible set emerald cut diamond modern hoop earring is impressive. The beautiful roundish
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Hoop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

0.40 Carat Diamond/1.30 Carat Ruby 18 Karat Gold Hearts Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Heart shaped Pendant with 12 Invisible Set Princess Cut Rubies (Total Gem Weight 1.30 Ct
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

0.51 Carat Diamond/1.05 Carat Ruby 18 Karat Gold Hearts Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Heart shaped Pendant with 21 Invisible Set Princess Cut Rubies (Total Gem Weight 1.05 Ct
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Princess Cut Natural Ruby and Diamond Stud Post Earrings 14 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
of ruby earrings is designed in 14K Yellow gold. The Princess cut , Invisibly set red Rubies are
Category

2010s Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Princess Cut Natural Ruby and Diamond Stud Post Earrings 14 Karat White Gold
Located in New York, NY
ruby earrings is designed in 14K White gold. The Princess cut , Invisibly set red Rubies are
Category

2010s Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

Retro Art Deco Cuff Bracelet in 14Karat Gold w/ Citrine, Rubies, and Diamonds
By Mouboussin
Located in New York, NY
. Invisibly set baguette cut rubies line the top and bottom edges of the cuff with a deep alluring hue and
Category

Vintage 1940s American Art Deco Retro Bracelets

Materials

Citrine, Diamond, Ruby, Gold

18k White Gold 2.36ct Square Ruby w/ Round Princess Cut Diamond Wide Band Ring
Located in Montclair, NJ
features 4 fine rubies neatly invisible set at its center in which gives the look of one stone. Each of the
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Pearl Ruby and Diamond Necklace and Earrings 18 Karat White Gold, Suite, Estate
Located in New York, NY
. There are Invisible set natural Burma Rubies. Total weight of Rubies is approximately 1 ct. The set
Category

20th Century Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Baguette Ruby and Round Diamond Band Ring 18 Karat Yellow Gold 2.60 Carats Total
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
carats. The bright red transparent rubies are invisible set, creating a smooth, continuous path of color
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

1960 Vintage 16 Ct Burma Ruby 6 Ct Diamonds 18 Kt Yellow Gold 109 Grams Bangle
Located in New York, NY
Presenting a stunning vintage bangle from 1960, featuring an invisible set of natural Burma rubies
Category

Antique 1660s Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Invisibly Set 18k Ruby Bracelet
Located in Sarasota, FL
Gorgeous 18k Bracelet set with 312 Invisible set fine rubies weighing approximately 25.00 carats
Category

Late 20th Century Modern Bracelets

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier Invisibly Set Ruby Diamond Gold Ring
By Cartier
Located in Toronto, ON
18 kt yellow gold diamond and invisibly set ruby ring, signed Cartier, registration mark 305029
Category

1990s Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

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Invisible Set Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

Surely you’ll find the exact invisible set ruby you’re seeking on 1stDibs — we’ve got a vast assortment for sale. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. In our selection of items, you can find a vintage example as well as a contemporary version. Making the right choice when shopping for an invisible set ruby may mean carefully reviewing examples of this item dating from different eras — you can find an early iteration of this piece from the 20th Century and a newer version made as recently as the 21st Century, both of which have proven very popular over the years. An invisible set ruby from Aletto Brothers, Van Cleef Arpels and Sabbadini — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. Take a look at an invisible set ruby featuring Ruby from our inventory today to add the perfect touch to your look. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes princess cut and square cut alternatives. If you’re browsing our inventory for an invisible set ruby, you’ll find that many are available today for women, but there are still pieces to choose from for unisex and men.

How Much is a Invisible Set Ruby?

Prices for an invisible set ruby can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $895 and can go as high as $225,000, while this accessory, on average, fetches $8,300.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.