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Vintage 18k Sapphire and Diamond Penguin Pin
Located in Narberth, PA
. The bird's torso is adorned with invisible set square cut sapphires, which have an approximate total
Category

Vintage 1960s Retro Brooches

Materials

Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Sabbadini Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Doorknocker Day/Night Earrings
By Sabaddini
Located in Houston, TX
A pair of estate Sabbadini doorknocker earrings with round diamonds and calibré-cut invisible set
Category

2010s Italian Modern Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold

Yellow Natural Sapphire Flower Ring: Natural Diamond Accent, 18K White Gold
Located in Ramat Gan, IL
. The invisible-set design ensures each Sapphire seems to melt seamlessly into the next, creating a
Category

2010s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold

Pair of 18 Karat White Gold, Sapphire and Diamond Ear Clips
By Sabbadini
Located in Palm Beach, FL
set with invisibly mounted blue sapphires. A central row of baguette-cut diamonds adds brilliance and
Category

20th Century Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, White Gold

Art Deco Sapphire, Diamond and Platinum Ring, Circa 1930
Located in London, GB
over and grain settings, superimposed on a surround of invisibly set calibré-cut sapphires, with an
Category

1990s Unknown Art Deco Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum

Dilamani 10.78 Carat Sapphire Diamond Gold Bracelet
By Dilamani
Located in Stamford, CT
18k white gold blue sapphire and diamond bracelet. Underside safety. Sapphires are invisibly set
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Deco Diamond and Sapphire Barberpole Platinum Filigree Tennis Link Bracelet
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
-cut white diamonds and intricately faceted carré-cut synthetic blue sapphires, all invisibly set for a
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Tennis Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Sabbadini 18 Karat Gold Bracelet with Diamond, Ruby and Sapphire House Charms
By Sabbadini
Located in New York, NY
with various house charms, each detailed with diamonds and invisibly set blue and yellow sapphires
Category

1990s Italian Contemporary Charm Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yello...

5.41 Carat Certified Natural Sapphire and Diamonds Cluster Pendant 18 Karat
Located in Miami, FL
surrounding the natural yellow sapphire are invisible set and the round diamonds are prong set. The natural
Category

Vintage 1980s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Blue-Sapphire Diamond 18k White Gold Band Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A chic and stylish wide band featuring 3.26 carats of invisible set blue sapphire. Invisible
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold

Georgios Collections 18 Karat Gold Diamond Rainbow Multi Sapphire Band Ring
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
set Rainbow color baguette Cut Sapphires of the total weight of 4.60 Carat and 0.60 Carat Brilliant
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Greek Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green...

1.00 Carat Sapphire Diamond Halo White Gold Heart Pendant Necklace
Located in Stamford, CT
Sapphire and diamond heart pendant necklace. Invisible set blue square sapphire heart with a halo
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

18K White Gold Blue Sapphire and Diamond Drop Earrings
By Royaal Stones Ltd
Located in Bangkok, Thailand
artistry, these earrings are designed to captivate. Featuring 58.10 carats of invisibly set blue sapphires
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Art Deco Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Georgios Collections 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamond Multi-Color Sapphire Bracelet
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
set Rainbow color Princess Cut Sapphires of the total weight of 8.80 Carat and 1.80 Carat Brilliant
Category

2010s Greek Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green...

Georgios Collections 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamond Multi-Color Sapphire Bracelet
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
set Rainbow color Princess Cut Sapphires of the total weight of 8.80 Carat and 1.80 Carat Brilliant
Category

2010s Greek Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green...

Georgios Collections 18 Karat White Gold Diamond Multi-Color Sapphire Bracelet
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
S.Georgios designer is presenting an 18 Karat Solid White Gold Bracelet with a row of invisible set
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Greek Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Multi-gemstone, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green...

32.53 Carat Blue Sapphire and 1.47 Carat Diamond Detachable Dangle Earrings
By Royaal Stones Ltd
Located in Bangkok, Thailand
feature 32.53 carats of invisibly set princess cut blue sapphires cascading in a fluid drop silhouette
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Art Deco Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

40.5 Carat Pink Sapphire and 1.1 Carat Diamond Drop Earrings
By Royaal Stones Ltd
Located in Bangkok, Thailand
exceptional earrings bloom with artistry and color. Featuring 40.50 carats of invisibly set pink sapphires
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Art Deco Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Platinum, 2.96 Carat Diamond and 3.94 Carat Blue Sapphire Band Ring
Located in New York, NY
are bordered on each side by two rows of Princess cut blue sapphires. Also invisibly set in a precise
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Georgios Collections 18 Karat White Gold Princess Cut Sapphires and Diamond Ring
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
S.Georgios designer invisible set blue sapphire Ring crafted from 18 Karat white gold. Its table is
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Greek Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Yellow Sapphire Hibiscus Flower Earrings with Diamonds in 14 Karat Gold
By Estaa
Located in Mumbai, IN
“Yellow Sapphire Hibiscus Flower Earrings“
 22.21 carats of Invisible set Yellow Sapphires and
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary More Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Sapphire, 14k Gold

14 Karat White Gold Multicolored Princess Cut Sapphires Surrounded by Diamonds
By Gregory Mikaelian Sons, Inc.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
cut invisible set multi colored sapphires weighing .75pts. and surrounded by 50 round full cut
Category

2010s American Modern Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold

Estate Art Deco Diamond Sapphire Ruby Platinum 4.7 Gm Pin / Broach VS Quality
Located in New York, NY
set princess cut sapphire to give an accent **Antique Estate Art Deco Pin" Weighing in at4.7 grams
Category

Early 2000s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum

Blue Sapphire Hibiscus Flower Earrings with Diamonds in 14 Karat Gold
By Estaa
Located in Mumbai, IN
“Blue Sapphire Hibiscus Flower Earrings“
 26.25 carats of Invisible set Blue Sapphires and 3.18
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary More Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold

NWT $9, 600 Important 18KT Large 4CT Rainbow Sapphire Diamond Heart Necklace
Located in New York, NY
comprised of over 4 Carats of Fine Invisibly Set Glittering Diamonds with Blue Sapphires, Pink Sapphires
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold

Georgios Collections 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamond and Sapphire Greek Key Ring
By Georgios Collections Inc
Located in Astoria, NY
set princess cut natural blue sapphires of total weight 1.04 Carat. On the sides, it features the
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Greek Classical Greek Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow ...

Art Deco Necklace in White Gold, Yellow Diamond, Diamonds, Sapphires
Located in New York, NY
nesting of round diamonds throughout the piece. Horizontal bars of invisibly set baguette cut sapphires
Category

Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Sapphire, White Gold

18 Karat Gold Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Half Hoop Earrings
Located in Zurich, CH
, crafted in 18 karat yellow and white gold and invisibly-set with 110 yellow sapphires carrés totalling
Category

Late 20th Century Italian Modern Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Square 3 Ct. Sapphire and Diamonds 0.60 Carats 18K White Gold Earrings
Located in New York, NY
A pair of invisibly set Square 3 ct. Sapphire and Diamonds 0.60 carats 18K White Gold Earrings. The
Category

20th Century Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold

Charles Krypell 18KT Yellow Gold 2.30 Carat Sapphire and 1.16ct Diamond Earrings
By Charles Krypell
Located in New York, NY
with round brilliant diamonds and invisibly set baguette blue sapphires. The earrings are approximately
Category

1990s American Modern Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

0.81 Carat Diamond/0.97 Carat Blue Sapphire 18 Karat Gold Pendant
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Square Shape Diagonal Pendant with 9 Invisible Set Princess Cut Blue Sapphires (Total Gem
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

18 Karat White Gold 3.61 Carat Diamond and Sapphire "Illusion-Setting" Eternity
By Gems Paradise
Located in Jaipur, IN
spectacular invisible setting of cobalt blue sapphire and diamond full band is breathtaking. The invisible set
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

0.51 Carat Diamond/1.47 Carat Blue Sapphire 18K Gold Hearts Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Heart shaped Pendant with 21 Invisible Set Princess Cut Blue Sapphires (Total Gem Weight
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

0.18 Carat Diamond/0.80 Carat Blue Sapphire 18K Gold Hearts Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Heart shaped Pendant with 21 Invisible Set Princess Cut Blue Sapphires (Total Gem Weight
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

0.24 Carat Diamond/0.75 Carat Blue Sapphire 18K Gold Hearts Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Heart shaped Pendant with 21 Invisible Set Princess Cut Blue Sapphires (Total Gem Weight
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

0.42 Carat Diamond/0.46 Carat Yellow Sapphire 18 Karat Gold Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Cushion Shape Diagonal Pendant with 4 Invisible Set Princess Cut Yellow Sapphires (Total
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold

0.42 Carat Diamond/0.46 Carat Blue Sapphire 18 Karat Gold Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Cushion Shape Diagonal Pendant with 4 Invisible Set Princess Cut Blue Sapphires (Total Gem
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Bee Brooch with Square Yellow Sapphires, Diamonds, Ruby Eyes in 18k Yellow Gold
Located in Old Tappan, NJ
Pre owned vintage estate 18K yellow gold sapphire bee pin. The body of the bee has 67 invisibly
Category

Late 20th Century Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Deep Intense Blue Sapphire Bee Brooch in 18K Yellow Gold with Diamonds Rubies
Located in Old Tappan, NJ
has 39 invisibly set square cut blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of 4.50 carats. Set
Category

Late 20th Century Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

A lor by Charriol Blue Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Necklace 18 Karat White Gold
By Charriol
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
are invisibly set to form a singular deep blue focal point. The crisp geometry of the sapphires is
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

6.63 Carats Total Rainbow Sapphire and Halo Diamond Pendant in 14 Karat Gold
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
is filled with invisible set baguette shaped lab-created sapphires in hues of red, orange, yellow
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

0.81 Carat Diamond/0.92 Carat Blue Sapphire 18 Karat Gold Heart Split Shank Ring
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Heart shaped Split Shank Ring with 21 Invisible Set Princess Cut Blue Sapphires (Total Gem
Category

2010s American Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Mens Natural Sapphire and Diamond Halo Square Band Ring in 18 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
, this piece will fill the finger with luxury. This unique ring features 9 square sapphires invisible
Category

20th Century Unknown Contemporary Band Rings

Materials

Sapphire, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

0.41 Carat Diamond/0.41 Carat Pink Sapphire 18K Gold Hearts Pendant Necklace
By Sebastian Bernard
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18K Gold Heart shaped Pendant with 8 Invisible Set Princess Cut Pink Sapphires (Total Gem Weight
Category

2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

vj-95142
By Royaal Stones Ltd
Located in Bangkok, Thailand
brilliance, these exceptional earrings showcase 33.20 carats of deep yellow princess cut sapphires, invisibly
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Art Deco Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

vj-95142
vj-95142
$18,900
Marcel Boucher Jean Fouquet Inspired Clip Brooch
By Marcel Boucher
Located in New York, NY
, crystal pave and calibre invisibly set faux sapphires. 1930's USA. Clip back fittings. Excellent
Category

Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Gold Plate, Rhodium, Base Metal

Platinum Sterling Silver Aquamarine Blue Topaz Bangle
By AENEA Jewellery
Located in Salzburg, AT
Sterling Silver with invisible set of Aquamarines, Blue Sapphires, Blue Topaz and White Diamonds
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Austrian Modern Bangles

Materials

White Diamond, Topaz, Aquamarine, Platinum, Sterling Silver

Invisibly Set Sapphire Diamond Flower Brooch
Located in New York, NY
This flower brooch boasts meticulously invisible set sapphires centered around a cluster of
Category

20th Century Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire

Van Cleef Arpels Invisibly Set Sapphire Diamond Ring
Located in New York , NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Invisibly Set Sapphire Diamond Ring Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18kt yellow gold
Category

Vintage 1960s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

18 Karat Yellow Gold Invisible Set Sapphire and Diamond Earrings
Located in La Jolla, CA
Estate Invisible Set Sapphire & Diamond Earrings. This pair of grand 18kt yellow gold vintage
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Lever-Back Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Large Invisibly-Set Sapphire and Diamond Flower Earrings
Located in Greenwich, CT
Invisibly-set sapphire and diamond flower earrings, designed with calibre-cut sapphire petals
Category

2010s Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Gold

Invisibly Set Sapphire Diamond Brooch
Located in Blowing Rock, NC
been measured and cut with the utmost precision to ensure an 'invisible set.' 14kt and 18kt gold was
Category

Vintage 1970s Brooches

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, 14k Gold, 18k Gold

Invisible Set Sapphire Diamond Gold Earrings
Located in Miami, FL
Featuring a pair of invisible sapphire and diamond earrings. 88 square cut sapphires weighing 10.12
Category

Vintage 1970s Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, 18k Gold

Van Cleef Arpels Invisible set Sapphire Bow
By Van Cleef Arpels
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Magnificent Van Cleef & Arpels Retro period Large Bow Brooch with Invisible Sapphire setting .
Category

20th Century French Retro Brooches

Materials

Sapphire

Invisibly-Set Sapphire and Diamond Hoop Earrings
Located in Greenwich, CT
Small half-hoop earrings, showcasing invisibly-set calibre-cut sapphires flanked by a curving row
Category

2010s Hoop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Gold

Invisible Set Sapphire Diamond White Gold Band Ring
Located in Frederick, MD
Item: 18K Princess Sapphire Diamond Scalloped Halo Ring Size 6 White Gold Weight: 7.9g Gem
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Modern Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Diamond Hoop Earrings with Invisibly-Set Sapphire Ring
Located in Greenwich, CT
Diamond hoop earrings, each hoop suspending a domed ring showcasing invisibly-set calibre-cut
Category

2010s Hoop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Gold

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Invisible Set Sapphires For Sale on 1stDibs

There is a broad range of invisible set sapphires for sale on 1stDibs. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold, these items were constructed with great care. Our selection of items includes 94 vintage examples as well as 60 contemporary versions. Our inventory has long been popular, and it includes earlier versions that date to the 20th Century and newer variations that were made as recently as the 21st Century. There are many different pieces in our collection of invisible set sapphires to choose from, but Contemporary and Modern invisible set sapphires are of considerable interest. There have been many well-made iterations of these items over the years, but those made by Cartier, Cellini and Van Cleef Arpels are often thought to be among the most beautiful. While most can agree that any pick from our collection easily elevates most outfits, but the choice of Sapphire versions from the 116 available is guaranteed to add a special touch to your ensemble. A selection of square cut, round cut and princess cut can be found today on these pages. When shopping our range of invisible set sapphires, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for men today than there are for women.

How Much are Invisible Set Sapphires?

Prices for invisible set sapphires start at $420 and top out at $150,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $6,450.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Sapphire in Jewelry Design

On 1stDibs, shop the bright blue gems that star in sapphire rings, sapphire necklaces and other vintage and antique sapphire jewelry

Sapphires — the stone of choice for Napoleon, Princess Diana and Elizabeth Taylor — have been a favorite of aristocrats and the well-to-do since the time of the Ancient Greeks.

Picture a sapphire. If the stone you conjure is a deep cornflower blue, you’re seeing only part of the picture. Although blue Kashmirs are considered the most valuable, sapphires come in every color except red. No matter the hue, this very special gem is rich in history and beloved by royals (FYI, Princess Diana and Kate Middleton share an 11-carat sapphire engagement ring), so September babies are in very noble company.

America’s version of royalty — old money and celebrities — have also shown a predilection for the blue stones. In 1940, John D. Rockefeller Jr. had Cartier mount a 62-carat sapphire he had bought from an Indian maharajah in a brooch for his first wife, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller; in 2001, the piece sold for a then-record of $3,031,000 at Christie’s New York.

The grand dame of jewelry, Elizabeth Taylor had a passion for the gems that her lovers were happy to indulge. Second husband Michael Wilding gave her an engagement ring set with a cabochon sapphire, while Richard Burton famously presented her with a BVLGARI sautoir set with diamonds and sapphires, including at its center a cabochon Burmese weighing 52.72 carats. One of the star lots in the sale of Taylor’s jewels at the Christie’s New York in 2011, it sold for $5,906,500.

You don’t have to have blue blood or a bulging bank account, however, to get an eyeful of this much-coveted gem. A number of outstanding examples reside in public collections.

The Smithsonian Museum of Natural History owns the 423-carat Logan sapphire, a gift from the Guggenheim family, and the Hall sapphire and diamond necklace, designed by Harry Winston and featuring 36 fine, well-matched cushion-cut Sri Lankan sapphires weighing a combined 195 carats. Also in the collection is the Bismarck sapphire necklace, designed by Cartier and sporting a central sapphire weighing 98.6 carats, which Mona Von Bismarck donated to the museum.

Sapphires are composed of corundum. Their color derives from trace elements, such as iron, titanium, chromium, copper or magnesium. When the trace element produces a ruby hue, the stone is called, what else, a ruby. (which is, as mentioned above, why sapphires cannot be red by definition).

The allure of large gemstones endures throughout the periods characterized as vintage, and sapphire features frequently in vintage engagement rings. (On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement ringsvintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.)  

Find an exquisite collection of vintage and antique sapphire jewelry on 1stDibs.