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Antique Art Nouveau Lion Necklace with Diamond and Ruby
Located in Stamford, CT
Strong repousse engraving and fierce definition make our solid ruby eyed lion seem wild, with its
Category

Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Vintage Diamond, Ruby, Emerald and Blue Sapphire Lion Ring
Located in London, GB
A highly unique vintage diamond, ruby, emerald and blue sapphire lion ring set in 18k yellow gold
Category

Vintage 1980s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Ruby Sapphire 14 Karat Gold Lion Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a stylized lion in a shield-like navette form With ruby cabochon eyes and a matte gold
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

David Webb Crystal, Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Lion Brooch
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
18KYG & Platinum Rock Crystal, Diamond, Ruby and Emerald Brooch. Cabochon Ruby is approximately
Category

Vintage 1970s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Rock Crystal, Ruby, 18k Gold

14K Gold Diamond Ruby Lion Head Double Strand Pearl Necklace
Located in Cape May, NJ
Antique 14K Gold Diamond Ruby Lion Head Double Strand Pearl Necklace. The necklace is in grood
Category

Vintage 1940s Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold

Men s Custom Made Ruby Diamond 14k Gold Lion / Tiger Cufflinks
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
Men's Custom Made Ruby Diamond & 14k Gold Lion / Tiger Cufflinks Description / Condition: New
Category

2010s American Modern Cufflinks

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Cellino Ruby Diamond Yellow Gold Lion Head Clip-On Earrings
By Cellino
Located in Southampton, PA
~.12cttw diamond eyes. Lastly, dangling from each lion's mouth is a hoop encrusted with rubies.
Category

20th Century Italian Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Hammerman Brothers Emerald Ruby Diamond Gold Lion Pendant Pin Brooch
By Hammerman Brothers
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Diamond Emerald Ruby Large Pendant Pin Brooch by Hammerman Brothers. With 33 round
Category

Vintage 1980s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Hammered Gold, Ruby and Diamond Lion Head Cuff Bangle Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
This vintage cuff bangle bracelet is hinged hammered gold cuff terminating in a pair of lion heads
Category

Vintage 1950s Unknown Retro Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Ilias Lalaounis Diamond and Ruby Gold Lion Clip on Earrings
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Southampton, PA
could only come from the Greek jeweler. The earrings are made of 18K yellow gold and boast lion motifs
Category

Late 20th Century Greek Clip-on Earrings

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Gold Ruby And Old Cut Diamond Lion Men’s Ring
Located in Firenze, IT
features a depiction of a lion's head adorned with ruby eyes and a round old-cut diamond, which is located
Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Retro Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Old European Cut Diamond Ruby Lion Head Yellow Gold Ring
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Vintage lion’s head yellow gold ring with ruby-set eyes and a diamond in its fangs circa 1930
Category

Vintage 1930s Artisan Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

18K Gold 0.78ct Diamond, Ruby, Emerald Pearl Lion Head Multi-Strand Bracelet
By LB Exclusive
Located in Southampton, PA
This chic multi-strand Pearl bracelet features a stunning 18K Yellow Gold Lion Head clasp that is
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Modern Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Vintage Lalaounis Ruby Diamond 18 Karat Gold Two Headed Lion Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
One Vintage Lalaounis Ruby Diamond 18 Karat Gold Two Headed Lion Ring. Featuring four round rubies
Category

Vintage 1970s Greek Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold

Vintage Lalaounis Ruby Diamond 18 Karat Yellow Gold Lion Wrap Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
One Vintage Lalaounis Ruby Diamond 18 Karat Yellow Gold Lion Wrap Ring. Featuring two round rubies
Category

Vintage 1970s More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Cameron Designs Modernist Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Geometric Lion Earrings
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Earrings are designed as deeply grooved geometric lion heads. With flowing stylized mane and
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Enamel Gold Diamond Ruby Lion Pendant Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
lion’s head holding a diamond (approximately 0.16 ct). The eyes are set with rubies. The entire head is
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Drop Necklaces

Hammerman Brothers 18K Yellow Diamond Ruby Emerald Gold Lion Earrings
By Hammerman Brothers
Located in New York, NY
Iconic Lion motif earrings designed by Hammerman Brothers finely crafted in 18 karat yellow gold
Category

20th Century American Retro Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Yellow Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Y...

Victorian Emerald Ruby 14 Karat Yellow Gold Lion Grotesque Antique Ring
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed a as highly rendered lion face with textured fur and expressive features. Featuring a
Category

Antique 1890s Victorian Fashion Rings

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Emerald Ruby 14 Karat Yellow Gold Lion Grotesque Antique Ring
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed a as highly rendered lion face with textured fur and expressive features. Featuring a
Category

Antique 1890s Victorian Fashion Rings

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

David Webb 18 Karat Two Lion Head with Enamel Ruby and Diamonds
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
The david webb two lion head is finely crafted in 18k yellow gold with black enamel, ruby and
Category

Vintage 1960s American More Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Enamel

Antique 14K Gold Diamond Ruby Lion Head Double Strand Pearl Necklace Bracelet
Located in Cape May, NJ
Antique 14K Gold Diamond Ruby Lion Head Double Strand Pearl Necklace & Bracelet Set. The set is in
Category

Vintage 1930s Etruscan Revival Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Ilias Lalaounis 18 Karat Yellow Gold Lion Head Diamond Ruby Bypass Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Baltimore, MD
Ilias Lalaounis 18 Karat Yellow Gold Lion Head Diamond & Ruby Bypass Ring Metal: 18 karat yellow
Category

Late 20th Century Greek Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Hammerman Brothers Large Diamond Emerald and Ruby Gold Lion Brooch or Pendant
By Hammeran Brothes
Located in Chevy Chase, MD
, a round cabochon ruby and 24 single cut diamonds. The lion measures 2 1/2" x 2", and weighs 68.63
Category

Vintage 1960s American Retro Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

14k Yellow Gold Lion Kitty Brooch with Rubies, Emerald and Onyx
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Base Metal: Gold Theme:Animals & Insects Type:Brooch Secondary Stone:ONYX, Ruby and Emerald Item
Category

Late 20th Century American Artisan Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Onyx, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Art Nouveau Gold Diamond Ruby Lion Head Stud Earrings C 1900
Located in Firenze, IT
Antique Art Nouveau C 1900 14K gold lion head stud earrings, each designed as a winged lion head
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Diamond Ruby 14K Yellow Gold Lions Head Clasp Pearl Garnet Multistrand Necklace
Located in Boca Raton, FL
Diamond and ruby double lion head clasp necklace fashioned in 14 karat yellow gold. The clasp
Category

Late 20th Century Contemporary Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, Ruby, Yellow Gold

David Webb 18K Yellow Gold Platinum Diamond Ruby Emerald Enamel Lion Brooch
By David Webb
Located in Southampton, PA
Add a compelling accent to your ensembles with this incredible lion pin that is extraordinarily
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Kutchinsky 18 Karat Yellow Gold, Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Lion Brooch Pin
By Kutchinsky
Located in London, GB
A Kutchinsky 18 karat yellow gold, ruby, emerald and diamond lion brooch pin, Circa 1960. This
Category

Vintage 1960s British Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Zolotas Vintage Diamond Ruby Mythical Lion Mask Clip Earrings Yellow Gold 1970s
By Zolotas
Located in Lisbon, PT
Zolotas Vintage Diamond and Ruby Mythical Mycenaen Lion Mask Earrings in 18K Yellow and White Gold
Category

Vintage 1970s Greek Modern Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Lalaounis Ruby Emerald 18 Karat Gold Greek Lion Head Bypass Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Bypass ring is designed as stylized lion head with textured mane and protruding tongue Accented by
Category

1990s Greek Contemporary Fashion Rings

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Hammerman Bro s Lion Cub 18 Karat Gold Brooch w Diamond, Emerald, Ruby
By Hammerman Brothers
Located in Addison, TX
This characteristic lion brooch from 1960s is bright and lustrous with emeralds, rubies, and
Category

Mid-20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Ilas Lalaounis Greek 18k Gold Textured Lion Snake Swirl W/ Diamond Ruby Earrings
Located in Montclair, NJ
design with a scaled and snake-like body. The lions eyes nicely stand out with fine vivid red rubies and
Category

Vintage 1980s Greek Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Hammerman Bro s Lion Cub 18 Karat Gold Brooch w Diamond, Emerald, Ruby
By Hammerman Brothers
Located in Addison, TX
This characteristic lion brooch from 1960s is bright and lustrous with emeralds, rubies, and
Category

Mid-20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold

Vintage 18K Gold Platinum Hand Sea Lion Seal w/ Ruby Diamond Pin Brooch
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (2) Natural Genuine Rubies - Round Brilliant Cut - Pave Set - Deep Red Color
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

LALAOUNIS Double Lion Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in San Antonio, TX
18 kt. gold double headed lion ring, set with old mine-cut diamond collars and ruby eyes. Signed
Category

Greek More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

A Fabulous Gold, Ruby and Diamond Double Lion Head Brooch
Located in New York, NY
An 18 karat yellow gold, ruby and diamond brooch. Designed as double swirling lions heads
Category

Greek Brooches

Gold Lion Brooch
Located in Miami, FL
14k yellow gold Lion brooch featuring synthetic emerald and synthetic ruby eyes and nose. It is
Category

20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

3D Lion Pendant with Ruby Eyes in 14 Karat Yellow Gold, Wild Animal Charm
By Five Star Jewelry
Located in Austin, TX
This richly detailed 14 karat gold ruby-eyed lion pendant/charm is absolutely fabulous! Lions
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

9.48 CTW Sapphire Ruby Diamond 18 Karat Yellow Gold Lion-Head Vintage Bracelet
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Bypass cuff terminates with highly rendered stylized lion heads pavé set with round brilliant cut
Category

20th Century Modern Cuff Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Y...

1990 s Diamond Ruby 14 Karat Two-Tone Gold Vintage Lion Head Pendant Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a stylized lion head with dimensional features Depicted with grooved mane and roaring
Category

1990s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

David Webb Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Sea Lion Dragon Brooch
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
cabochon rubies, signed David Webb. Signed DAVID WEBB, stamped 18K for 18-carat gold. Diamonds estimate to
Category

20th Century American Modern Brooches

Large Jeweled Gold Lion Brooch
Located in New York, NY
A large 18 karat yellow gold, sapphire, diamond, ruby and turquoise lion brooch. The brooch has a
Category

Vintage 1960s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Turquoise, 18k Gold

Lion Ring by Ilias Lalaounis
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Paris, FR
Lion Ring by Ilias Lalaounis 18K Gold, Black Enamel, Ruby, Rose Cut diamonds Greece, Circa 1970
Category

Vintage 1970s Greek Greek Revival Cocktail Rings

Materials

Agate, Amber, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Inspired Mythical Gemstones Gold Lion Brooch
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Cabochon emerald eyes, a feathered ruby headdress and a crown and ears of diamonds? This finely
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold

Ruser gold Lion and Star Pin
By William Ruser
Located in San Francisco, CA
Vintage Ruser 14k yellow gold pin features a lion resting on his front legs, poised between three
Category

Mid-20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

Lalaounis Gem Set Gold Lion Head Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Chicago, IL
18K Yellow Gold and Gem Set Lion Head Ring by Ilias Lalaounis, nicely detailed and set with Rubies
Category

Vintage 1980s Greek Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold

Lalounis Double Lion Head Lariat Necklace
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
rope with each end tipped with a gemstone-studded lion head. Diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds
Category

Vintage 1980s Greek More Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Lion Ring of 14k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
centerpiece is a finely detailed 14k gold lion’s head, its gaze illuminated by vivid ruby eyes and a lustrous
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Signet Rings

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 10k Gold, 14k Gold

Regal 14k Yellow Gold Lion Head Pin
Located in New York, NY
designed lion head showcases a fierce expression, with a striking ruby eye. Gracing the lion's mouth is a
Category

Vintage 1980s Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Ilias Lalaounis Precious Gemstone Lion Gold Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Southampton, PA
design. 18K Yellow Gold unfolds with looping velocity into the distinct features of a lion's head. Its
Category

Late 20th Century Greek More Rings

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

BIELKA chic gold elephant, zebra and lion charm bracelet
By Robert Bruce Bielka
Located in New York, NY
, a zebra and a lion set with ruby and sapphire eyes. Gross weight approximately 210 grams.
Category

Vintage 1960s American Charm Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Vintage Zolotas 18k Yellow Gold Double Lion Head Ring
By Zolotas
Located in New York, NY
This exquisite piece is crafted in rich gold, forming the shape of two intricately detailed lion
Category

Mid-20th Century Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Lalaounis Gold and Diamond Twin Lion Heads Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Firenze, IT
textured and sculpted gold crossover design in twin lion heads, enhanced by rose-cut diamonds
Category

Vintage 1980s Greek Retro Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold

David Webb Platinum 18K Yellow Gold Double Head Lion Ring
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
Estate David Webb Platinum & 18K Yellow Gold White Enamel Diamond Head Ruby Eye Lion Ring
Category

20th Century American Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum

Art Nouveau Diamond Garnet 14 Karat Gold Lion Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Depicting a stylized whiplash lion With bright red garnet cabochon eyes And an old European cut
Category

Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold

Vintage Ilias LALAoUNIS 18Karat Yellow Gold Lions Holding Emerald Textured Ring
By Ilias Lalaounis
Located in Montclair, NJ
lions eyes are adorned with 4 round brilliant cut rubies with a beautiful deep red color. The ring
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Cocktail Rings

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

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Lion Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate lion ruby for your needs in our varied inventory. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. Find an antique version now, or shop for 144 vintage or 22 modern creation for a more contemporary example of these cherished accessories. If you’re looking for a lion ruby from a specific time period, our collection is diverse and broad-ranging, and you’ll find at least one that dates back to the 19th Century while another version may have been produced as recently as the 21st Century. For this particular piece, .5 Carat are consistently popular carat weights. A lion ruby from Ilias Lalaounis, David Webb and Hammerman Brothers — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes brilliant cut and pear cut alternatives. There aren’t many items for men if you’re seeking a lion ruby, as most of the options available are for women and unisex.

How Much is a Lion Ruby?

On average, a lion ruby at 1stDibs sells for $3,250, while they’re typically $708 on the low end and $125,000 for the highest priced versions of this item.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.