Moschino Vintage Black Bag 90s

The Moschino story begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.

Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan's Brera Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.

Moschino's expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and Franco's close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique.

Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.

“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”

Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe.

In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap and Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.

After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.

Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie.

“I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”

Find vintage Moschino clothing on 1stDibs.

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn’t yet exist, the design associated with 1990s fashion — vintage '90s handbags, clothing and accessories — has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity.

If there was one concept unifying fashion in the 1990s, it was the lean silhouette. “Fashion is a game of proportion,” Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. “Narrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the ’90s were skinny.”

If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that’s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.

The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan and Belgium gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim, minimalism, '90s grunge fashion and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal. And Prada.

For the colorful corsets of her 1990 Portrait collection, audacious British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood drew on 18th-century oil paintings — her models donned the pearl choker necklaces that have become a social media star and a favorite of influencers and fashion lovers all over the world. For a jacket-and-shorts suit from her Fall/Winter 1996–97 Storm in a Teacup line, the designer used the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, “the horror of uniformity and minimalism.”

“The ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn’t about money, it wasn’t about status,” says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.”

Vintage 1990s Chanel bags, for example, are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings — at Newfound Luxury, proprietor L. Kiyana Macon has "clients who only buy ’90s Chanel because they recognize that it is the best quality.” 

Things were different in the ’90s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes. Pull up any recent “How to Do the 1990s” fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you’ll see iconic '90s outfits — knee socks, cardigans, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses, flannel shirts and combat boots.

Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock “for very sexy Galliano, Dior, Cavalli — that kind of thing,” she explains, noting that just a few months ago, “people were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.” Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.”

Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,” Rodriguez continues. They’re “heading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang, [Martin] Margiela and [Ann] Demeulemeester.”

Late designer Franco Moschino shocked and titillated the ’80s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He famously said, “If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” — words that, with all due respect to Susan Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.

Vintage Moschino pants, jackets and other '90s Moschino garments remain so bold and fresh today that even the house's former creative director, Jeremy Scott, drew on the brand's past and the pop culture of the decade for his debut collection in 2014.

Find vintage 90s dresses, skirts, sweaters and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs — shop Thierry Mugler, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and more today.

An integral part of fashion, handbags and purses have been indispensable accessories ever since we began to carry around personal items. Level of craftsmanship, style and shape matters — from coin purses in ancient Greece to early 20th-century opera bags and onward, handbags have evolved considerably over the years to meet our needs and desires, whether or not you happen to be prioritizing functionality over a flashy exterior.

Once, a single “It” handbag ruled each fashion season. No more. Today, lovers of vintage handbags are savvier and have a wider range of shopping options. Nevertheless, classics created by the likes of Louis Vuitton, Dior and Balenciaga still rule.

“It is not a fashion bag — it is a statement bag,” says Mightychic's Debra Kent of Hermès's widely beloved accessories. “When you carry an iconic Hermès bag — Birkin, Kelly, Constance — no one knows how long you have been into this culture or if you are a newbie. Your status is validated immediately.”

First released in 1997, Fendi's Baguette rose to fame along with Carrie Bradshaw, the Sex and the City character portrayed by Sarah Jessica Parker. Recently, the design has seen such a resurgence in popularity that Fendi has reissued it.

They are part of design history, so owning a handbag has meaning. As New York–based fashion historian Sarah C. Byrd says, “You have made the choice to invest in this piece because you understand the value of it in the past and in the future to come.”

From a 1980s Chanel black leather quilted mini buckle bag to the rare Hermès Birkin 30cm Himalayan with diamond hardware to a range of 19th-century bags, find a rich variety of vintage and designer handbags and purses spanning numerous brands on 1stDibs — seasonal “It” designation no longer needed.