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A Close Look at Art-deco Jewelry
Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.
The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.
However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)
While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.
Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.
A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.
Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
The Legacy of Diamond in Jewelry Design
Antique diamond rings, diamond tiaras and dazzling vintage diamond earrings are on the wish lists of every lover of fine jewelry. And diamonds and diamond jewelry are primarily associated with storybook engagements and red-carpet grand entrances — indeed, this ultra-cherished gemstone has a dramatic history on its hands.
From “A Diamond Is Forever” to “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend,” pop culture has ingrained in our minds that diamonds are the most desired, the most lasting and the most valuable gemstone. But what makes the diamond so special? Each stone — whether it’s rubies, sapphires or another stone — is unique and important in its own right. April babies might claim diamonds for themselves, but just about everyone wants this kind of sparkle in their lives!
There are several factors that set diamonds apart from other stones, and these points are important to our gem education.
Diamonds are minerals. They are made up of almost entirely of carbon (carbon comprises 99.95 percent; the remainder consists of various trace elements). Diamonds are the hardest gemstones, ranking number 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Even its name, diamond, is rooted in the Greek adamas, or unconquerable. The only object that can scratch a diamond is another diamond. Diamonds are formed deep within the earth at very high temperatures (1,652–2,372 degrees Fahrenheit at depths between 90 and 120 miles beneath the earth’s surface) and are carried up by volcanic activity. Diamonds are quite rare, according to the Gemological Institute of America, and only 30 percent of all the diamonds mined in the world are gem quality.
In the 1950s, the Gemological Institute of America developed the 4Cs grading system to classify diamonds: clarity, color, cut and carat weight. Not all diamonds are created equal (there are diamonds, and then there are diamonds). The value of the diamond depends on the clarity (flawless diamonds are very rare but a diamond's value decreases if there are many blemishes or inclusions), color (the less color the higher the grade), cut (how the diamond’s facets catch the light, certain cuts of diamonds show off the stone better than others) and carat weight (the bigger, the better).
When you start shopping for a diamond engagement ring, always prioritize the cut, which plays the largest role in the diamond's beauty (taking the time to clean your diamond ring at least every six months or so plays a role in maintaining said beauty). And on 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.
Shop antique and vintage diamond rings, diamond necklaces and other extraordinary diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is a baguette diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A baguette diamond is a rectangular, step-cut diamond with either straight or tapered edges. Baguette diamonds are small and typically square, although they can also be rectangular. Baguette diamonds are popular gemstones in engagement rings.
- Can I diamond test baguettes?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, it is possible to diamond test baguettes. However, you should leave the work to a licensed jewelry appraiser in order to avoid damaging the jewelry and to ensure that the tests yield accurate results. On 1stDibs, shop a range of expertly vetted diamond gemstone jewelry.
- What does baguette diamond mean?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022The term “diamond baguette” means small step-cut diamonds in a rectangular shape. Typically, jewelry designers use them as accent stones in engagement rings that feature square or rectangular center stones. You'll find a large collection of diamond gemstone jewelry on 1stDibs.
- Are baguette diamonds expensive?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021No, baguette diamonds are often less expensive than other diamond cuts. Since this diamond cut is less expensive than an emerald cut or brilliant cut, it is the perfect ring for someone on a budget who still wants the classic diamond look.
- Are baguette diamonds real?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Yes, baguette diamonds are real. Baguette diamonds are diamonds cut in a rectangular shape with 14 facets. The narrow, elongated shape of these diamonds make them the perfect accent stone.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Tapered baguette diamonds are diamonds featuring a baguette cut that angles narrower at one end. The baguette cut is long and thin, and features step-cut sides, though the corners are cut diagonally to create the tapered shape. Shop a collection of authentic tapered baguette diamonds from top sellers on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 14, 2023Baguette diamonds were especially popular during the 1920s and 1930s. You will commonly see diamonds cut into the rectangular stepped cut on Art Deco and Art Nouveau jewelry pieces. Contemporary jewelry may also feature baguette diamonds, especially those inspired by the style of early 20th-century rings, necklaces, earrings and brooches. On 1stDibs, shop an assortment of baguette diamond jewelry.
Roman Malakov DiamondsMarch 22, 2021The main differences of baguette cut diamonds and emerald cut diamonds are its shape and faceting. The shape of the baguette tends to be more elongated. The baguette also has 14 facets while the emerald has 58.1stDibs ExpertAugust 17, 2021The difference between baguette and emerald cut diamonds is their shape. While both a baguette cut and an emerald diamond are characterized by a rectangular shape and simple step cut facets, baguette cuts feature pointed corners while emerald cuts have wedge shaped polished corners.
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