Plique A Jour Jewelry
1990s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Pink Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Enamel
Late 20th Century Unknown Modern Clip-on Earrings
Diamond, Gold, Silver, Enamel
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Fashion Rings
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Ruby, White Diamond, Diamond, Enamel, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Late 20th Century Contemporary Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Multi-Strand Necklaces
Diamond, Morganite, Peridot, 14k Gold, Platinum, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Fashion Rings
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau More Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1920s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Enamel Frames and Objects
Silver, Enamel, Gilt Metal
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Pocket Watches
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Enamel, 18k Gold
Vintage 1910s French Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Unknown Russian Empire Enamel Frames and Objects
Sterling Silver, Enamel
Antique 1890s Italian Art Nouveau Boxes and Cases
Silver, Enamel
Antique 1890s Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
20th Century Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces
18k Gold
20th Century Brooches
Onyx, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau Choker Necklaces
Silver
Antique 1880s Unknown Egyptian Revival Drop Necklaces
Pearl
Antique Late 19th Century German Art Nouveau Brooches
Amethyst, Sterling Silver
Antique Early 1900s French More Jewelry
Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Spanish More Rings
Diamond, 18k Gold
1990s American Art Nouveau Chain Necklaces
Diamond, Freshwater Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Late Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Enamel, Platinum
20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
20th Century French Modern Brooches
Emerald, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Antique 19th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold
Antique Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 2000s Unknown Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 14k Gold
2010s Spanish Art Nouveau Band Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Vintage 1960s Chinese Art Nouveau Bangles
Brass, Enamel
20th Century Italian Cuff Bracelets
18k Gold
Mid-20th Century Spanish Brooches
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary American Brooches
Diamond, Green Sapphire, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Beaded Necklaces
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver
Antique Late 19th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces
Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Natural Pearl, 18k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Natural Pearl, 18k Gold, Platinum
Antique Early 1900s Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Brooches
Amethyst, Pearl, Silver
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Amethyst, Freshwater Pearl, 18k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century French Art Nouveau Drop Necklaces
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Modern Brooches
Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1970s French Gothic Revival Pendant Necklaces
18k Gold, Gold, Enamel, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Necklace Enhancers
Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, White Diamond, 18k Gold
20th Century American Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces
Aquamarine, Blue Sapphire, Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
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- What is cloisonné jewelry?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 8, 2024Cloisonné jewelry is jewelry that has been decorated with a distinctive enameling technique.
Cloisonné (“cell” in French) is a technique in which thin wires of fine silver or gold are used to outline a design, which is then filled with enamel. The piece is subsequently placed in a kiln where the enamel is melted. Cloisonné is distinct because the individual wires remain visible, forming an outline of the motif.
Over the years, enameling has become an art form. This is partly because of its durability: Although the colors may change during firing, once cooled, they’re set and never fade. They can also be made either opaque or translucent — just one example of the flexibility that is another reason artists are attracted to the medium.
When it comes to jewelry design and other disciplines, cloisonné enamel was popular during the Byzantine Empire (artisans living in France and Germany in the Middle Ages preferred champlevé). By the 7th century, Lombard craftsmen in northern Italy were using enamel to emulate Byzantine objects. In the 12th and 13th centuries, artisans in China imported the technique and made it so much their own that enameled objects have long been associated with Eastern aesthetics and motifs rather than Western ones.
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