Pomellato Chalcedony

When Pino Rabolini (1936–2018) founded Pomellato in 1967, he was continuing the heritage of goldsmithing in his Milanese family but wanted to take a different approach to fine jewelry. While so many European jewelers, including Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef Arpels, were designing status pieces, Rabolini turned toward women interested in everyday style. In fact, the first few pieces he designed were an homage to the women — actresses, singers and artists — at Bar Jamaica, a popular Milanese bar frequented by the city’s creative set. He wanted to craft pieces for the women of Italy (and eventually the world) who deserved to wear fine jewelry that reflected their dynamic identities, even if they were merely headed to their unassuming local bar or cafe.

Rabolini helped revolutionize the world of fine jewelry by offering women an opportunity to wear colorful gems in their daily lives. Among the brand’s innovations were its advertising campaigns, which included work by leading black-and-white photographers like Gian Paolo Barbieri in the 1970s, Helmut Newton in the 1980s and Alistair Taylor Young, Lord Snowdon and Javier Vallhonrat in the 1990s. In the 2000s, Michel Comte led the brand's shift into color photography for its campaigns.

Pomellato released numerous collections since its inception, and in 1995 added the Dodo brand aimed at a younger audience with more playful shapes and affordable designs. But it was the 2001 Nudo collection that put the brand on the international map, giving the Nudo ring design instant cult status. Nudo, which is Italian for “nude,” seemed the most appropriate name for the ring collection given its simple, prong-free setting. The Nudo ring’s solitaire stone, which has a double-face cut, is completely exposed on all sides save for the bottom. And the band, usually rose gold, is often devoid of any stones or designs. The collection became so popular that, in 2019, Pomellato expanded upon it, adding a sautoir, which can be worn three different ways: as a classic sautoir, a lariat necklace or a double-wrap chain. It also updated the original Nudo ring to include rose-gold bands set with three rows of colored pavé diamonds.

In 2013, Pomellato was acquired by the Kering Group. The Nudo collection remains the most popular collection to date as Pomellato’s team of goldsmiths continues to produce striking jewelry from its Milan headquarters.

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Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in. 

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.