Sapphire Pins
20th Century Brooches
Diamond, Platinum
20th Century Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1960s American Art Deco Brooches
Gilt Metal
20th Century Brooches
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1960s Brooches
Gold, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Brooches
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Lever-Back Earrings
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Sterling...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Renaissance Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Vintage 1920s Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Peridot, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Clip-on Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Stud Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Clip-on Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 9k Gold,...
20th Century Brooches
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, White Gold, Silver
Antique 1870s English Victorian Brooches
Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Mid-20th Century American Artisan Brooches
Crystal, Gold-filled
Late 20th Century Italian Art Deco Brooches
Enamel
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Emerald, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Deco Drop Earrings
Chalcedony, Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Turquoise, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterli...
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Turquoise, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
2010s Hong Kong Contemporary Brooches
Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Turquoise, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Stud Earrings
Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century Pendant Necklaces
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Swiss Modern Wrist Watches
Diamond, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Deco Lever-Back Earrings
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Clip-on Earrings
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Tourmaline, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Deco Stud Earrings
Emerald, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow ...
Vintage 1970s American Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1970s Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Swiss Wrist Watches
2010s Unknown Wrist Watches
Antique 1880s British Late Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Green Sapphire, Purple Sapphire, Yello...
Vintage 1960s Italian Retro Brooches
Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Vintage 1910s British Edwardian Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1940s American Retro Brooches
Sapphire, Diamond, 18k Gold
1990s American Brooches
Sapphire, 18k Gold
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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
Read More
This 1960s Opal Pansy Brooch Is a Perfect Token of Love
The care that went into crafting this jewel, with its lifelike carved petals and diamond accents, matches the sentiment it represents.
This David Webb Coral Flower Brooch Is Better Than a Bouquet
For starters, it is one of the jewelry designer’s most celebrated works.
This Gem-Encrusted Boucheron Brooch Is a Symbol of Mid-Century Glamour and Clever Design
Though it sparkles with more than 27 carats of diamonds, this multifaceted gem delivers more than just dazzle.
The Editor of ‘Town & Country’ Loves Jewelry and History in Equal Measure
Stellene Volandes takes us on a glittering, engrossing tour through the centuries.
5 Fresh Jewelry Trends That Will Bring You Joy This Spring
From cameos to cigar bands, here are the looks on our radar this season.
Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.