Stick Pins
Late 20th Century Unknown Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold
Vintage 1960s American Modernist Cufflinks
Emerald, 14k Gold
Antique 1890s Unknown Victorian Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Opal, 14k Gold
Vintage 1960s North American Retro Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Brooches
14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Etruscan Revival Brooches
Amethyst, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s European Pendant Necklaces
Crystal, 14k Gold
Vintage 1960s American Artisan Cocktail Rings
14k Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Vintage 1930s British Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century American Modern Brooches
Gilt Metal
Mid-20th Century Brooches
14k Gold, Enamel
20th Century Unknown Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Opal, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold...
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Multi-gemstone, Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Platinum
Early 2000s Unknown Dangle Earrings
Diamond, 14k Gold
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Platinum
Antique Early 1900s American Edwardian Brooches
Rock Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Antique 1890s Cluster Rings
Diamond, 14k Gold
Mid-20th Century Unknown Modern Band Rings
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Opal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century French Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
20th Century Brooches
Diamond, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Mid-20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Chalcedony, Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Pink Sapphire, Gold, Yello...
Antique 19th Century English Victorian Chain Bracelets
Garnet, 9k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Platinum
Mid-20th Century American Brooches
Diamond, Cultured Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary More Jewelry
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
1990s American Brooches
Base Metal, Gold Plate
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Sapphire, Opal, 15k Gold, Silver
20th Century Brooches
Diamond, Platinum
Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Brooches
Sterling Silver
2010s American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1920s Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Platinum
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1990s French Brooches
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Etruscan Revival Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Sapphire, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
Crystal
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
Crystal
Vintage 1960s American Modernist Brooches
Coral, Diamond, Turquoise, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1970s American Modernist Pendant Necklaces
Quartz, Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Vintage 1920s Mexican Art Deco Retro Bracelets
Jade, Silver, Sterling Silver
Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
Antique Early 1900s American Edwardian Vanity Items
Quartz, Rock Crystal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Chinese Art Deco Brooches
Jade, Silver
Late 20th Century Unknown Clip-on Earrings
Gold Plate, Enamel
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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
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This David Webb Coral Flower Brooch Is Better Than a Bouquet
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This Gem-Encrusted Boucheron Brooch Is a Symbol of Mid-Century Glamour and Clever Design
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Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.