Stick Pins
Early 20th Century British Victorian Brooches
Coral, Gold, 9k Gold
Early 20th Century Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Platinum
Late 20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Natural Pearl, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Early 20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
Antique 1880s Unknown Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 2000s American Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 2000s American Brooches
Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian Cluster Rings
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1940s American Brooches
Gilt Metal
Early 20th Century Unknown Edwardian Brooches
Diamond, Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Mid-20th Century American Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, White Gold
2010s Modern Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold
20th Century Brooches
Coral, 14k Gold
Late 20th Century Italian Contemporary Brooches
Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1920s Brooches
14k Gold
Vintage 1980s Contemporary Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian More Jewelry
Opal, 9k Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Deco Band Rings
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, White Diamond, Diamond, Platinum
Antique Early 1900s Art Nouveau Brooches
Emerald, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
20th Century Art Deco Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Platinum, Enamel
20th Century Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, Sapphire, 14k Gold
20th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches
Amethyst, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Pearl, Emerald, Ruby, Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
20th Century Cluster Rings
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1820s British George IV More Jewelry
Amethyst, Gold, 15k Gold
20th Century Fashion Rings
Opal, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Early 1900s Victorian Pendant Necklaces
White Diamond, Rock Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
Antique Mid-19th Century Unknown Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1910s British Aesthetic Movement Signet Rings
Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century Edwardian Brooches
Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Vintage 1960s Artisan Signet Rings
Onyx, 14k Gold
20th Century Victorian Fashion Rings
Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1940s American Contemporary Brooches
Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Mid-19th Century British Georgian Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1910s Edwardian Brooches
Amethyst, Diamond, Garnet, Jade, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Edwardian Brooches
Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold
Antique Early 1900s American Edwardian Brooches
Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Vintage 1960s American Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 19th Century Unknown Brooches
Crystal, Yellow Gold
Antique 19th Century English Victorian Cocktail Rings
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold
Antique Mid-19th Century Solitaire Rings
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Edwardian Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold, Platinum
Vintage 1930s Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, White Gold, Platinum
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Platinum
Mid-20th Century Unknown Edwardian Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Aesthetic Movement Brooches
Diamond
Early 20th Century Art Deco Cluster Rings
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
20th Century Italian Contemporary Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian Cluster Rings
Diamond, Silver
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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
Read More
This 1960s Opal Pansy Brooch Is a Perfect Token of Love
The care that went into crafting this jewel, with its lifelike carved petals and diamond accents, matches the sentiment it represents.
This David Webb Coral Flower Brooch Is Better Than a Bouquet
For starters, it is one of the jewelry designer’s most celebrated works.
This Gem-Encrusted Boucheron Brooch Is a Symbol of Mid-Century Glamour and Clever Design
Though it sparkles with more than 27 carats of diamonds, this multifaceted gem delivers more than just dazzle.
The Editor of ‘Town & Country’ Loves Jewelry and History in Equal Measure
Stellene Volandes takes us on a glittering, engrossing tour through the centuries.
5 Fresh Jewelry Trends That Will Bring You Joy This Spring
From cameos to cigar bands, here are the looks on our radar this season.
Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.