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Victorian Gold Black Enamel Jewelry

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Antique Mid Victorian Gold Memorial Pins
Located in Stamford, CT
with a black greek key pattern on white enamel. Two gold rectangles further in frame perfectly braided
Category

Antique 1850s British Victorian Brooches

Materials

Gold, 15k Gold

Antique Diamond Garnet and Enamel Yellow Gold Horse and Jockey Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning Victorian 0.37 carat diamond, 0.01 carat garnet and enamel, 15 karat yellow gold horse
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Memento Mori Style Diamond Black Enamel Bangle Fleur de Lis
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Diamond Black Enamel Bangle French Lily, Fleur de Lis Cuff bracelet with black Enamel, inspired by
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel

Black Enamel Serpent Ring Blue Sapphire Marquise, Diamond Ruby Eyes
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Black Enamel Serpent Ring Blue Sapphire Marquise, Diamond Ruby Eyes A Victorian-inspired
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Enamel, Brass, Gold Plate, ...

J DAUPHIN Chakra Star Cuff Bracelet Black Enamel
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
J DAUPHIN “Chakra Star Cuff Bracelet” – Seven Gemstones, Black Enamel, 14K Gold-Plated Gold-Plated
Category

2010s American Victorian Bangles

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, ...

Antique Ouroboros Snake Pendant of Enamel Pearl and 12k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
snake coiled protectively around a luminous pearl, crafted in warm 12k gold and rich black enamel. The
Category

Antique 1840s Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Gold, Enamel

Drop Necklace Diamond Necklace Sphere Star Black Enamel
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
White and Black Diamond Necklace Ball Pendant Star Black Enamel Material Gold plated Silver
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Chain Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Black Diamond, Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Enamel, Ste...

Pendant Necklace Black Enamel Cosmic Star Sphere Diamond Stars
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Black Sphere Necklace Diamond 14k Gold-Plated Silver – Victorian Celestial Pendant The Star
Category

2010s Indian Contemporary Chain Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Black Diamond, Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enam...

Heart Pendant Necklace Black Enamel Diamond Pearl Memento Mori Style
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Designer: J DAUPHIN Materials • Chain: Gold-plated brass with hand-painted black enamel • Pendant: 14k
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, B...

Antique Enamel and Seed Pearl Yellow Gold Mourning Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive Victorian seed pearl and enamel, 15 karat yellow gold mourning brooch; part of our
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Pearl, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Antique 2.55 Carat Diamond and Enamel Yellow Gold Horse and Jockey Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning, fine and impressive antique 2.55 carat diamond and enamel, 9 karat yellow gold and
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Late Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Antique Green Enamel and Seed Pearl 14K Gold Ring
Located in Rotterdam, NL
black and gold jewelry box.
Category

Antique 19th Century Dutch Victorian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel

Victorian 18 Karat Gold Right Facing Lady Chalcedony Cameo Large Pin Brooch
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
This is a Victorian large oval pin brooch crafted in 18K gold. Circa 1880. The piece features a
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Chalcedony, Gold, Enamel

0.70 Carat Diamond Button Earrings in Platinum Black Enamel
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
. Platinum rounds with a cutout trefoil design are laid over a black enamel background. Tiny pave diamonds
Category

Late 20th Century Unknown Late Victorian Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Platinum, Enamel

Victorian Pearl Ruby Diamond 18 Karat Yellow Gold Antique Snake Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
accented by enamel eyes Opaque black and white - minimal loss throughout One snake is flush set with an old
Category

Antique 1870s Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Voctorian brooch with enamel, cameo and rose cut diamonds 14k gold and silver
Located in The Hague, ZH
Victorian 14k yellow gold and silver brooch decorated with black enamel, set with a cameo and rose
Category

Antique 1880s Dutch Early Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold, Silver, Enamel

Edwardian 18 Karat Gold Enamel Grape Motif Ornamented Pin Brooch
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
gold. It features green and black enamel. Weight: 4.34g Size: 5x2.7cm IMPORTANT: As a buyer, you are
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold

Victorian Enamel Non Heated Sapphire Diamond 18k YG Earrings Pendant- Brooch Set
Located in New York, NY
featuring an intricate filigree design hand-crafted in 18k yellow gold and contrasted with black enamel
Category

Early 20th Century French More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Giuliano Enamel, Peridot, Moonstone, Garnet and Gold Pendant, circa 1885
By Carlo Giuliano
Located in London, GB
A Carlo Giuliano enamel, peridot, moonstone, garnet and gold pendant with a cabochon-cut peridot
Category

Antique 1880s English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Garnet, Moonstone, Peridot, Gold, Enamel

Antique Enamel Woman Pendant of 14k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
framed by black taille d’épargne enamel, a decorative technique prized during the late Victorian and
Category

Early 20th Century Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Tanzanite Cuff Bracelet Enamel Star
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
J DAUPHIN Stud Cuff Bracelet – Black Enamel, 14K Gold-Plated, Tanzanite Star Settings Gold-Plated
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Bangles

Materials

Tanzanite, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Enamel

Naimah, French Bulldog Whistle Pendant Necklace, Black Enamel
By Naimah
Located in Istanbul, 34
vermeil and Rhodium plated Color: Gold Black Dimensions: 35 x 18 mm Chain Length: 21-24" 55-63 cm
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Turkish Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Zircon, 18k Gold, Vermeil, Sterling Silver, Enamel

Black Pansy Art Nouveau Enamel Vintage Brooch circa early 1900 s 14 Karat
Located in Brooklyn, NY
1900's Weight is: 6.70 grams Size is: approx 1.' inch Pearl is 3mm Color: Victorian Black Condition
Category

Vintage 1910s French Brooches

Materials

Cultured Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique 14K Gold Etruscan Revival Enamel Round Brooch, 19th Century
Located in Rotterdam, NL
within a square frame, each delicately enameled in shades of burgundy, white, turquoise, and black. The
Category

Antique Late 19th Century French Etruscan Revival Brooches

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel, Yellow Gold

1890 Victorian Diamond and Pearl Black Onyx Locket
Located in Lexington, KY
composed of Black Onyx and has an enamel bail and is marked "585" for 14K gold. This is the perfect locket
Category

Antique 1860s Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Enamel Pearl Diamond And Gold Bangle Bracelet circa 1880
Located in Firenze, IT
setting, embellished with black enamel profiles that accentuate its shape, characterised by two thin bands
Category

Antique 1880s British Victorian Bangles

Materials

Pearl, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel

French Antique Gold, Ruby, Diamond, and Enamel Buckled Strap Slide Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
and rose-diamond fasteners and a scalloped terminal with black enamel Greek key decoration, in 18k
Category

Antique 1860s French Victorian More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel

Yellow Gold Victorian Floral Tassel Dangle Brooch - 14k Gold Filled Antique Pin
Located in Greensboro, NC
Era: Victorian Date: 1870s - 1880s Metal Content: 14k Yellow Gold (brooch) & Gold Filled (backing
Category

Antique 1870s Victorian Brooches

Materials

14k Gold, Gold-filled, Yellow Gold

Onyx Bangle Blue Enamel Diamond
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
J DAUPHIN “As Above So Below” Bangle Bracelet – 14k Gold-Plated, Light Blue Enamel, Heart Onyx with
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Gold Plate, Enamel

Antique 15ct Gold Victorian Hardstone Cameo Earrings
Located in Brighton, GB
. Beautifully Decorated with Gold Scrolls & Black Enamel. Measure Approx Length 55mm (48mm drop) Width 17mm
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Drop Earrings

Materials

Gold, 15k Gold

Star Necklace Neck Collar Diamond Enamel
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
-enameled in deep blue and set with natural black and white diamonds in engraved star-shaped settings. J
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel

VICTORIAN 1880 Industrialism Pendant-Brooch In 14Kt Gold With Agate Diamonds
Located in Miami, FL
embellished with applications of black enamel. It is mount in the center with one natural earth mined white
Category

Antique 1880s English Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Agate, Diamond, Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Neck Cuff Choker Blue Enamel Diamond
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
in 14k gold-plated brass and draws inspiration from Victorian celestial motifs, mystical talismans
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel

14 Karat Gold Wedding Band with Ivy Leaves and Enamel, circa 1870
Located in Stamford, CT
emboldened with black enamel giving definition to the band. This band cannot be sized but will fit a finger
Category

Antique Late 19th Century American Victorian Band Rings

Materials

14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Enamel and Seed Pearl 12k Yellow Gold Mourning Brooch, circa 1835
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive enamel and seed pearl, 12 karat yellow gold mourning brooch
Category

Antique 1830s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Quartz Crystal Ring White Enamel Coctail Ring
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
and references historic Victorian enamel work, including Memento Mori jewelry where white enamel
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Cocktail Rings

Materials

Quartz, Crystal, Enamel, Gold Plate, 14k Gold

Vintage Pansy Art Nouveau Enamel Brooch circa early 1900 s 14 Karat Black Pin
Located in Brooklyn, NY
1900's Weight is: 4.30 grams Size is: approx 1.' inch Pearl is 3mm Color: Victorian Black Condition
Category

Vintage 1910s French Brooches

Materials

Cultured Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel

Victorian Pearl Textured Star Gold Dangle Earrings
Located in Stamford, CT
1850's. One natural pearl 1.7mm in each black enamel star 14k Yellow Gold Tested: 14k 1.8 grams
Category

Antique 1850s Victorian Dangle Earrings

Materials

Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Diamond, Pearl Enamel Bracelet / Brooch in 18k Yellow Gold
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
fastening and benefits from the added security of a safety chain. This Victorian gold and black enamel
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Chain Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Bangle Light Blue Enamel Diamond Onyx
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
piece featuring a light blue enamel finish over 14k gold-plated brass, set with black onyx and diamond
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel

Neck Bangle Chpker Necklace Light Blue Enamel Diamond
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Dauphin Gold-Plated Celestial Choker • Light Blue Enamel • Black White Diamonds This Star Choker
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel

Victorian mourning cross – gold, silver, diamonds and pearls.
Located in Malmö, Skåne län
popularity of mourning jewelry reached its peak during the Victorian era (1837-1901). While mourning customs
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English High Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Silver

Antique Diamond Enamel and 18k Yellow Gold Pendant / Locket, circa 1865
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique Victorian 0.03 carat and enamel, 18 karat yellow gold
Category

Antique 1860s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Antique Georgian Gold, Enamel, and Seed Pearl Braided Hair Mourning Brooch
Located in Philadelphia, PA
plaited hair behind glass in a worked gold setting set with seed pearls and surrounded by a black enamel
Category

Antique Early 19th Century British Georgian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Gold, Enamel

Bangle Light Blue Enamel Onyx Diamond
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
J DAUPHIN “As Above So Below” Bangle Bracelet – 14k Gold-Plated, Light Blue Enamel, Heart Onyx with
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Gold Plate, Enamel

Signet Memento Mori Style Ring Enamel Truth
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Truth Black Enamel Signet Ring Memento Mori Style This 14k Gold Plated Ring with Black Enamel has
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Band Rings

Materials

14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel

Antique Gilded Silver Enamel and Stone Filigree Brooch, 19th-Century
Located in Rotterdam, NL
, enhanced with black stones and white and black enamel accents that lend both sophistication and contrast
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Austrian Victorian Brooches

Materials

Silver, Enamel

Antique American 14K Gold Enamel, Pearl and Diamond Bangle
Located in New Orleans, LA
A fantastic Victorian black enamel bracelet set with natural pearls and old mine cut diamonds. 1
Category

Antique 19th Century Victorian Bangles

Heart Red Enamel Cuff Bracelet Truth Faith
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
White Diamond TRUTH / FAITH Cuff Bracelet – Gold-Plated Brass, Black Enamel, Red Heart by J Dauphin
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Enamel

Light Blue Enamel Bangle Bracelet Diamond Onyx Heart
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
delivery Materials: 14k gold-plated brass, diamond, black onyx, light blue enamel Style: Heart bangle
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel

Revivalist Enamel and Sapphire Swan Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Late 19th Century pendant brooch made in the Renaissance Revivalist Taste of enameled silver set
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Hungarian Victorian Brooches

Materials

Sapphire, Gold Plate

TIFFANY CO. 1915 Edwardian Guilloche Enameled Watch Necklace In 18Kt Gold
By Tiffany Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Edwardian Enamel Pendant Watch designed by Tiffany & Co. This is a very fine necklace watch
Category

Vintage 1910s American Edwardian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold

Art Deco Amethyst Enamel Lavaliere Pendant Necklace Antique 14K Gold
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A STUNNING ANTIQUE ART DECO - VICTORIAN - EDWARDIAN OVAL FACETED AMETHYST AND BLACK ENAMEL
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Vintage 14K Yellow Gold Victorian Reproduction Opal Bangle Bracelet
Located in Boston, MA
opals with green and red play of color. The bangle has black enamel with gold heart shape and diamond
Category

Vintage 1960s American Victorian Bangles

Materials

Opal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Revival 14K Woven Gold Necklace with Buckle Clasp and Tassels
Located in Venice, CA
fashion. The buckle which has black enamel details makes for a great accent. The necklace ends with two
Category

20th Century Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

French Antique Gold and Old Mine Diamond Cross Pendant with Enamel Accents
Located in New York, NY
-cut diamonds and accented with black enamel and scrolled terminals, suspending from a gold and diamond
Category

Antique 1860s French Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel

Vintage 14K Yellow Gold Victorian Reproduction Opal Bangle Bracelet
Located in Boston, MA
Vintage 14K yellow Gold Victorian Reproduction Opal Bangle Bracelet - The bangle contains 15 round
Category

Vintage 1960s American Victorian Bangles

Materials

Opal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

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Victorian Gold Black Enamel Jewelry For Sale on 1stDibs

You are likely to find exactly the piece of victorian gold black enamel jewelry you’re looking for on 1stDibs, as there is a broad range for sale. Each design created in this style — which was crafted with great care and often made from gold, enamel and yellow gold — can elevate any look. In our selection of items, you can find a vintage example as well as a contemporary version. Making the right choice when shopping for an item from our selection of victorian gold black enamel jewelry may mean carefully reviewing examples of this item dating from different eras — you can find an early iteration of this piece from the 18th Century and a newer version made as recently as the 21st Century, both of which have proven very popular over the years. For this particular accessory, there are many different carat weights to choose from, but .5 carat and 1 carat versions are of considerable interest. A choice in our collection of victorian gold black enamel jewelry from J DAUPHIN, Tiffany Co. and Carlo Giuliano — each of whom created a beautiful version of this treasured accessory — is worth considering. An object in our assortment of victorian gold black enamel jewelry can make for a versatile accessory, but a selection from our variety of 588 diamond versions can add an especially stylish touch. See these pages for a rose cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also round cut cut and single cut cut versions available here, too. If you’re browsing our inventory for an option in this array of victorian gold black enamel jewelry, you’ll find that many are available today for women, but there are still pieces to choose from for unisex and men.

How Much is a Victorian Gold Black Enamel Jewelry?

The price for a piece of victorian gold black enamel jewelry starts at $145 and tops out at $310,000 with these necklaces, on average, selling for $2,652.

A Close Look at Victorian Jewelry

The reign of Queen Victoria encapsulates a quickly evolving period of history — and jewelry styles were no exception. No single period has seen such a diverse group of jewelry attributed to it than the Victorian era. Today, there is a vast collection of authentic antique Victorian jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.

Victorian jewelry is named after Queen Victoria, whose reign lasted from 1837 to 1901, making her the second longest-ruling monarch. (She was surpassed by Queen Elizabeth II in 2015.) During this time, different styles of fashion and jewelry came and went. Thanks to our fascination with royalty and swoon-worthy melodramas like Netflix’s The Crown — which is rife with evocative fashion, jewelry and interiors — and the 2017 feature film Victoria Abdul, we are all familiar with her story. After the death of Victoria’s father and three childless uncles, she ascended to the throne at age 18. In 1840, Queen Victoria married the love of her life, her first cousin Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

Queen Victoria loved serpentine jewels, and she had even more power to shape trends than Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle do today. The British monarch’s best-known piece in this mold is the gold coiled-snake engagement ring she received from Prince Albert — the sinuous reptile was considered a symbol of everlasting love.

The Queen's 63-year reign has been divided by historians into the Romantic period, the early happy years, circa 1837–60; the Grand period, marked by the deaths of the Queen’s mother and husband, circa 1860–80; and the late Victorian or Aesthetic period, which lasted from about 1880 until 1901 and ushered in the Belle Époque. Queen Victoria wore her heart on her sleeve, and her fashion and jewelry reflected her emotions.

Romantic period jewelry, which featured common decorative motifs and was embellished with seed pearls, coral and turquoise, was a celebration of the young monarch’s love. Everything changed with the death of Prince Albert, and the Grand period is most often associated with mourning jewelry. Jewelry was smaller, lighter and more dainty during the late Victorian period. During this era, diamonds came into fashion, and semiprecious gems such as amethysts and opals became prevalent, too. Using gemstones for their natural beauty and not their worth was something that jewelers of the era felt passionate about, and this ideology would really become relevant in Art Nouveau jewelry.

Find a collection of authentic antique Victorian jewelry — from rings, necklaces and brooches to a range of other accessories — on 1stDibs. 

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.