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Victorian Flower Maiden Locket Enamel Ruby Pearl 14 Karat Gold Etruscan Revival
Located in New York, NY
This is a rare and wonderful Victorian Enamel Ruby Pearl 14 Karat Gold Locket Pendant with an image
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold

La Belle Epoque Pearl Ruby Platinum Overlaid Yellow Gold Necklace
Located in Seattle, WA
. This stunning necklace came in as part of a six-piece estate that escaped the Nazi invasion of Vienna
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Vintage 9K/ 14K Yellow Gold Snake Necklace with Rubies and Diamond.
Located in San Francisco, CA
Crafted in 14K Yellow Gold, with a 9K Yellow Gold Chain, this antique snake necklace captivates
Category

Antique Early 1900s American Late Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Victorian Pearl Gemstone Silver Gold Butterfly Pin Pendant
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
rubies and anchored in the center by a pearl. Approximately 1 carat of diamonds, plus 2 carats each of
Category

Antique 1880s Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Antique Circa 1900s 12k Gold Natural Rose Cut Diamond And Ruby Pendant Necklace
Located in Fatih/İstanbul, 34
In very good condition. Total weight is 14.7 grams. Totally is diamond 2.70 ct. The diamond is has H-I color and vs-s1-s2-s3 clarity. Total lenght is chain 45 cm. The chain is 14k go...
Category

Antique Early 1900s Asian Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Victorian 1890 Pendant Locket in 18kt Gold with 9.44ctw Diamonds Rubies Emerald
Located in Miami, FL
Fabulous pendant locket from the Victorian Era. An outstanding piece of jewelry, created in
Category

Antique 1890s English High Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

【Vine Symphony】Victorian Wreath Aurora South Sea Pearl Ruby Diamond Pendant
Located in New York, NY
its brushed texture, adds a vintage charm, while a small round ruby completes the design, infusing a
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Japanese Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold

Victorian Rock Crystal, Diamond, Garnet and Tiger Eye Bug Pendant
Located in Narberth, PA
An absolutely fabulous rock quartz crystal pendant from the Victorian (ca1880) era! This lovely
Category

Antique 1880s Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Rock Crystal, Ruby, Tiger s Eye, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 18ct Gold Silver Victorian Diamond and Ruby Floral Pendant, Circa 1900
Located in Brighton, GB
. The central drop is set with a faceted ruby, framed by smaller rubies and old-cut diamonds throughout
Category

Early 20th Century European Edwardian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Silver

Victorian Gold Gargoyle Pendant
Located in New York, NY
Charming Victorian Gold Gargoyle Pendant in 14k gold. Beautiful detailing with tiny ruby eyes. 1870
Category

Antique 1870s American Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold

Antique Ruby and Diamond Pansy Pendant of 14k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
with five old European cut diamonds in silver collet settings accented by a natural, untreated ruby
Category

Antique 1890s Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Virgin Mary Medal Chain Necklace
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Virgin Mary Medal Chain Necklace with Ruby Medal Chain Necklace Virgin Mary 3 pieces Ruby Solid
Category

2010s Indian Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Silver, Sterling Silver

Antique 15ct Gold Ruby Diamond Cluster Pendant Circa 1880
Located in Brighton, GB
Ruby Diamond Cluster Pendant Necklace 15ct Gold Chain Sold Separately A late Victorian
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 15k Gold

TVJ 1.00 Carat Trillion Cut Ruby Pendant
Located in London, GB
This is a beautiful ruby pendant necklace. The pendant features a bezel set trillion cut ruby which
Category

21st Century and Contemporary English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Multi Gemstone Dragonfly Locket Pendant
Located in London, GB
Here we have a wonderful antique locket dating back to the Victorian era. This oval shaped piece
Category

Antique 19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Multi-gemstone, Gold, 18k Gold, Y...

Queen Victoria Jubilee Ruby and Diamond Pendant/Brooch
Located in London, GB
This is a truly wonderful, Victorian diamond and ruby pendant/brooch. The pendant features an oval
Category

Antique 19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Agate, Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold

An 18k Gold Heart Locket with Diamond and Ruby
Located in Amsterdam, NL
diamonds and centered with three oval rubies. The reverse is open worked with a heart motif and encircled
Category

Antique 1890s French Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Vintage diamond and ruby portrait pendant, hallmarked 1981
Located in London, GB
quality at G in colour and VS in clarity. A single 0.02 carat ruby is used as the lady's necklace adding
Category

Vintage 1980s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 15ct Gold and Silver Synthetic Ruby Diamond Cluster Pendant Circa 1865
Located in Brighton, GB
Ruby & Diamond Cluster Pendant 15ct Gold and Silver Chain Sold Separately A circular openwork
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 15k Gold

White Diamond Dove Chain Necklace
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
a gold heart pierced by a ruby and set with a white diamond. This dove necklace symbolizes peace
Category

2010s American Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Silver, Sterling Silver

Antique Garnet, Beryl and Gold Snake Necklace, Circa 1840
Located in London, GB
An early Victorian garnet, beryl, ruby and gold snake necklace, with cabochon-cut ruby eyes, with
Category

Antique 1840s Early Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Beryl, Garnet, Ruby, Gold

Bloom 18ct Gold Emerald Pendant Necklace
Located in London, GB
" MADE TO ORDER The BLOOM pendant is available in alternative gemstones (Rubies Sapphire or Emerald
Category

21st Century and Contemporary English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Diamond, Ruby, 14 Karat Gold and Sterling Silver Cross
Located in Berkeley, CA
This Victorian cross is beautifully embellished with Diamonds ( 0.28 ct tw aprox. ) and rubys (0.38
Category

Antique Early 1800s American Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Sterling Silver

French Antique 18K Yellow Gold Ruby and Pearl Cross Locket
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
An antique ruby, pearl, and yellow gold locket, comprising five pearls, and six round ruby
Category

Antique Late 19th Century French Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian Gemstone Pendant Enamel 14k Yellow Gold Etruscan Greek Key
Located in Torrance, CA
Distinct antique Victorian Etruscan Revival pendant (circa 1860s to 1880s) crafted in 14 karat
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Pink Tourmaline Ruby Pearl Vintage Style Pendant in 14K Rose Gold
Located in Bangkok, TH
, vibrant rubies and luscious pearls. Designed with intricate vintage detailing, this pendant exudes
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, Tourmaline, 14k Gold, Rose Gold

Antique Pearl Garnet Gold Snake Necklace
Located in London, GB
Antique garnet and pearl set snake necklace. Set with three oval old cut garnets in closed back
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Link Necklaces

Materials

Natural Pearl, Ruby, 15k Gold

Antique Gemstone Giardinetti Flower Basket Conversion Necklace
Located in Lewisburg, PA
craftsmanship of the Georgian to early Victorian era. The jewel depicts an urn overflowing with flowers, a
Category

Antique Early 19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Silver

14K Gold Victorian Inspired Signature Fox Pendant-Charm
Located in Venice, CA
” collection. It is handcrafted from a Victorian era button and features a standing profile of a fox against
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

Antique 18K Rose Gold Silver Ruby Diamond Fish Charm Pendant
Located in London, GB
an estimated total weight of 0.65 carats and a cabochon ruby eye. Unmarked but tested as 18 karat
Category

Antique 1890s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

Antique 18K Rose Gold Silver Ruby Diamond Rooster Charm Pendant
Located in London, GB
with an estimated total weight of 0.35 carats and a cabochon ruby eye. Unmarked but tested as 18 karat
Category

Antique 1890s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

Antique 18K Rose Gold Silver Ruby Diamond Pig Charm Pendant
Located in London, GB
estimated total weight of 0.40 carats and a cabochon ruby eye. Unmarked but tested as 18 karat (18K) rose
Category

Antique 1890s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

21.99ct Hollow Cabochon Ruby Old Cut Diamond 18K Gold Large Oval Pendant
Located in London, GB
certified rare natural unheated hollow cabochon transparent ruby weighing an impressive 21.99ct, certified
Category

Early 20th Century European Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Gold Festoon Necklace with Crystal Pendants Inset with Gemstone Insects
Located in New York, NY
An antique Victorian period gold, rock crystal, and multi-gemstone festoon necklace comprising
Category

Antique 1870s English Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 15k Gold

Old gold pendant with synthetic rubies and pearls
Located in Chorzów, PL
Old gold pendant made of 0.585 yellow gold decorated with four synthetic rubies (rubies made with
Category

Mid-20th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, 14k Gold

Antique 15ct Yellow Gold and Seed Pearl, Victorian Ornate Pendant, Circa 1880
Located in Brighton, GB
beautiful Victorian gold pendant features a central star motif set with nine natural seed pearls. The design
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold

"Baby Boom" Necklace with Eleven Gold Antique American Baby Rings on Black Chain
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
traditional (garnet and rubies), throwing in some pearly green prehnite and lapis just for giggles. Best of
Category

Early 20th Century American Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Blue Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Lapis Lazuli, Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire,...

Antique Diamond and Enamel Bird Pendant of 14k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
Romantic and symbolic, this Victorian-era pendant (circa 1870) was originally a brooch, later
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique 18ct Gold, Sapphire, Diamond and Demantoid Garnet Pendant, Circa 1880
Located in Brighton, GB
Victorian pendant in 18ct yellow gold, centred with a Sapphire, framed by an ornate foliate surround. The
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold

Burmese Ruby Cabochon and Old Cut Diamond Necklace/Bracelet, circa 1890s
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A rare Victorian ruby cabochon and diamond necklace/bracelet in yellow gold, ca. 1890s. It is bezel
Category

Antique 1890s German Victorian Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Early Victorian Diamond and Ruby Cross
Located in London, GB
An early Victorian diamond and ruby cross, the eleven old European-cut diamonds estimated to weigh
Category

Antique 1840s British Early Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Diamond and Ruby Heart-Locket Pendant
Located in London, GB
A Victorian diamond and ruby heart-locket pendant from the collection of Bentley & Skinner
Category

Antique 1880s British Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

A Victorian Renaissance Revival Gem-set Pendant
Located in London, GB
A Victorian Renaissance revival gem-set pendant, the central cushion shaped faceted ruby set to the
Category

Antique 1850s British Renaissance Revival Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold, 18k Gold

Antique 18K Rose Gold Silver Ruby Diamond Chick Charm Pendant
Located in London, GB
an estimated total weight of 0.32 carats and a cabochon ruby eye. Unmarked but tested as 18 karat
Category

Antique 1890s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

Antique Victorian Ruby Diamond Pearl Pendant Necklace 0.90ct Ruby
Located in Kendal, GB
A stunning antique Victorian Art Nouveau pendant from the late 1800s decorated with an array of
Category

Antique 1890s European Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Victorian Emerald Diamond Gold Snake Necklace With Ruby Eyes
Located in New York, NY
Victorian emerald & diamond snake necklace with locket-back drop measuring app. 1 3/4 x 3/4 inch
Category

Antique 1870s Unknown Victorian Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 14k Gold

IGI Certified Diamond and Ruby Victorian Style Drop Necklace
Located in La Neuveville, Berne
A fabulous ruby and IGI certified natural Diamond drop necklace, designed in a beautiful vintage
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Swiss Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Victorian Inspired Sapphire and Ruby Double Heart Diamond Cluster Necklace
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
Such a beautifully designed double heart cluster necklace inspired by a classic Victorian piece of
Category

21st Century and Contemporary British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Victorian Holbeinesque Diamond Ruby Natural Pearl Enameled Necklace
Located in Napoli, IT
Holbeinesque Renaissance revival jewellery was rediscovered by Victorian jewellers and their
Category

Antique Early 1900s Holbeinesque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Natural Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Victorian Snake Necklace
Located in Toronto, ON
A hand made Victorian snake necklace set with cabochon turquoise and ruby eyes. The chain
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Turquoise, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold

Victorian Turquoise Snake Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Sizeable, Glorious Victorian Turquoise, Ruby and Diamond Snake Necklace 15K Gold In its original
Category

Antique 1860s British Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Turquoise, White Diamond, 15k Gold

Victorian Inspired Ruby and Diamond Heart Shape Pearl Choker Necklace
Located in Pikesville, MD
Victorian-inspired choker style necklace. The ornate heart shape pendant is adorned with approximately 3.50
Category

Vintage 1950s Unknown Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold

Victorian Ruby Diamond Cross, circa 1850
Located in London, GB
An 18ct Cross with Rubies and Diamonds circa 1850 Single row of Calibré cut natural colour rubies
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Victorian Ruby Diamond Cross, circa 1850
Located in London, GB
An 18ct Cross with Rubies and Diamonds circa 1850 Single row of Calibré cut natural colour rubies
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

1867 Victorian English Ruby Diamond Gold Locket
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Beautiful Victorian 15KT yellow gold English locket accented with a double buckle applique set with
Category

Antique 1860s British Victorian Rope Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold

Victorian Sapphire and Diamond Swallow Necklace
Located in Houston, TX
A gorgeous sapphire and diamond bird from the Victorian era! This precious little bird is made of
Category

Antique 1860s English Victorian More Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, Silver

Antique Victorian Ruby Diamond Platinum circa 1900 Pendant
Located in Lancaster , GB
This beautiful antique Ruby and Diamond pendant is from the Victorian era, Circa 1900 The lovely
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum

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Victorian Ruby Necklace For Sale on 1stDibs

You are likely to find exactly the victorian ruby necklace you’re looking for on 1stDibs, as there is a broad range for sale. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold, this item was constructed with great care. Find an antique version now, or shop for 219 vintage or 25 modern creation for a more contemporary example of these cherished accessories. Finding the perfect victorian ruby necklace may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 18th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. Finding an appealing victorian ruby necklace — no matter the origin — is easy, but J DAUPHIN, Karen Sugarman Designs and Marina J. each produced a popular version that is worth a look. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes old mine cut and brilliant cut alternatives. When shopping for a victorian ruby necklace, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for unisex or men today than there are for women.

How Much is a Victorian Ruby Necklace?

Prices for a victorian ruby necklace can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $350 and can go as high as $685,000, while this accessory, on average, fetches $3,915.

A Close Look at Victorian Jewelry

The reign of Queen Victoria encapsulates a quickly evolving period of history — and jewelry styles were no exception. No single period has seen such a diverse group of jewelry attributed to it than the Victorian era. Today, there is a vast collection of authentic antique Victorian jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.

Victorian jewelry is named after Queen Victoria, whose reign lasted from 1837 to 1901, making her the second longest-ruling monarch. (She was surpassed by Queen Elizabeth II in 2015.) During this time, different styles of fashion and jewelry came and went. Thanks to our fascination with royalty and swoon-worthy melodramas like Netflix’s The Crown — which is rife with evocative fashion, jewelry and interiors — and the 2017 feature film Victoria Abdul, we are all familiar with her story. After the death of Victoria’s father and three childless uncles, she ascended to the throne at age 18. In 1840, Queen Victoria married the love of her life, her first cousin Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

Queen Victoria loved serpentine jewels, and she had even more power to shape trends than Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle do today. The British monarch’s best-known piece in this mold is the gold coiled-snake engagement ring she received from Prince Albert — the sinuous reptile was considered a symbol of everlasting love.

The Queen's 63-year reign has been divided by historians into the Romantic period, the early happy years, circa 1837–60; the Grand period, marked by the deaths of the Queen’s mother and husband, circa 1860–80; and the late Victorian or Aesthetic period, which lasted from about 1880 until 1901 and ushered in the Belle Époque. Queen Victoria wore her heart on her sleeve, and her fashion and jewelry reflected her emotions.

Romantic period jewelry, which featured common decorative motifs and was embellished with seed pearls, coral and turquoise, was a celebration of the young monarch’s love. Everything changed with the death of Prince Albert, and the Grand period is most often associated with mourning jewelry. Jewelry was smaller, lighter and more dainty during the late Victorian period. During this era, diamonds came into fashion, and semiprecious gems such as amethysts and opals became prevalent, too. Using gemstones for their natural beauty and not their worth was something that jewelers of the era felt passionate about, and this ideology would really become relevant in Art Nouveau jewelry.

Find a collection of authentic antique Victorian jewelry — from rings, necklaces and brooches to a range of other accessories — on 1stDibs. 

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right Necklaces for You

We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners. Today, Van Cleef necklaces, Tiffany necklaces and Cartier necklaces are some of the most popularly searched designer necklaces on 1stDibs.

Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers. 

In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs. 

For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone. 

Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage David Webb necklaces — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt

On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Dior, Chanel and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.