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Antique Victorian Gold Heart Locket Ruby Paste, circa 1900
Located in Lancaster, Lancashire
This fabulous Victorian 9ct Yellow Gold heart locket is Circa 1900. Set with a central Ruby which
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Garnet, 9k Gold

Antique Victorian Diamond Ruby Duck Charm
Located in Sale, Cheshire
body is set with rose cut diamonds and a ruby for the eye. The back is finely detailed with particular
Category

Antique 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold, Silver

Antique Victorian Diamond Ruby Miniature Pig Charm
Located in Sale, Cheshire
A tiny Victorian period Pig Charm, diamond set with a ruby eye. The piece is modelled in Sterling
Category

Antique 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Sterling Silver

Gold, Turquoise, and Ruby Snake Necklace
Located in New York, NY
15kt gold, turquoise and ruby snake necklace with heart detail, in original box, circa 1850 *Not
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Turquoise, Ruby, 15k Gold

Victorian Seed Pearl Amethyst Ruby Gold Pendant
Located in Portland, ME
18k yellow gold Victorian amethyst, seed pearl, and ruby pendant, on a 14k yellow gold chain. The
Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Cultured Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Victorian Ruby Diamond Lucky Horseshoe Pendant
Located in Sale, Cheshire
Beautiful antique horseshoe pendant set with bright old cut diamonds and vivid rubies. It has been
Category

Antique 19th Century English Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold

Antique Victorian Gold Locket Star and Crescent Ruby
Located in Lancaster, Lancashire
To read more please click continue reading below- This fabulous Antique Victorian 9ct Gold back
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 9k Gold, Silver

Late Victorian Ruby Sapphire Diamond Clover Pendant
Located in Edinburgh, GB
An antique 18ct gold pendant, circa 1890, claw set with an old mine cut diamond, ruby and sapphire
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Late Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Mid-Victorian Diamond Ruby Blue Enamel Snake Collar
Located in Sale, Cheshire
A striking and ultra-special antique Serpent collar necklace, lavishly set with old mine cut
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century English Victorian Choker Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold

Victorian Sapphire and Diamond Butterfly Necklace
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This is such a great necklace! This is a rose cut diamond covered butterfly, with 3.5 carats of
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Cultured Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, Platinum, 14k Gold

Victorian era 18K gold diamond ruby horseshoe pendant
Located in Versailles, FR
the horse shoe, there are 3 diamonds in rose cut style and 4 rubies in vivid pinkish red color. The
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century French Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Diamond and Ruby, Gold Snake Necklace
Located in New York, NY
A great antique snake necklace with 18 kt gold box chain body chased decorated head and ruby eyes
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Gold

Victorian 15 Carat Gold Burmese Ruby Diamond Pearl Pendant
Located in St Helens, GB
A fantastic mid to late Victorian period pendant. Solid high carat yellow gold example. Designed
Category

Antique 19th Century British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold

Mid-Victorian Enamel and Diamond Snake Necklace
Located in Birmingham, GB
A mid Victorian 20ct/ 22ct gold, enamel and gem-set snake necklace. The blue enamel head and
Category

Antique 1840s British Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold

18K Gold Diamond Ruby Twisted Snake Necklace
Located in Versailles, FR
considered as a symbol of rebirth, fertility and wisdom. For sale a beautiful 18K gold snake necklace
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century French Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Victorian Ruby Heart 18 Carat Gold Pendant, circa 1880
Located in Lancaster, Lancashire
This adorable Victorian 18ct Yellow Gold Ruby heart is, Circa 1880. The pendant is set with a
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Victorian Sapphire Diamond "Diving Swallow" Necklace
Located in Sale, Cheshire
A stunning antique diving swallow necklace; the bird is set with diamonds, sapphires, and a ruby
Category

Antique 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 15k Gold, 9k Gold, Silver

Victorian Turquoise and Ruby Filigree Pendant 14k
Located in Joelton, TN
Victorian Turquoise and Ruby Filigree Pendant 14k
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century English Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Turquoise, 14k Gold

Antique Victorian 18 Karat Gold Natural Ruby and Diamond Cross
Located in Miami, FL
Period: Victorian (1835-1900) Composition: 18k Gold • 15 natural rubies 0.70ctw. • 12 rose cut
Category

20th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Victorian Ruby Heart Pendant 18 Carat Gold, circa 1900
Located in Lancaster, Lancashire
A lovely petite antique Victorian heart pendant set with a pretty pink 0.12ct Cabochon Ruby. The
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian Ruby Pearl Amethyst Locket 9 Carat, circa 1900
Located in Lancaster, Lancashire
in a wonderful combination of Pearls, a Ruby and Amethyst’s. The Ruby is considered to be the most
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold

Victorian Colored Gem Stone Heart Locket
Located in Los Angeles, CA
14k yellow Victorian gold heart locket filled with colored gems! There are 4 old cut diamonds, four
Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold

Antique Victorian 18 Karat Gold "AEI" Oval Locket Necklace
Located in Sale, Cheshire
An especially lovely antique AEI locket, each letter studded with gemstones: ruby, diamond, and
Category

Antique 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

22 Karat Gold Ruby and Jade Charm Pendant Necklace
Located in London, W1U 2JG
A very pretty delicate charm pendant necklace, full of meaning and symbolism. Perfect to wear
Category

Antique 15th Century and Earlier Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Jade, Ruby, Gold, 22k Gold

Victorian 9 Carat Rose Gold Enamel Ruby Pearl Pendant
Located in St Helens, GB
A late Victorian period pendant. Very stylish shape. Wonderful 9 carat rose gold colour. Bright
Category

20th Century British Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian Locket, Ruby and Pearl Surround, 15 Carat Gold, circa 1890
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
added a petite Victorian gold horseshoe grain set with a dark red ruby to the bottom edge and with three
Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 15k Gold, 9k Gold

Antique Ruby Pearl Necklace Art Nouveau Silver 9 Carat Gold
Located in Lancaster, Lancashire
Rubies and lustrous natural Pearls adorn this necklace. 4 Pearls sit in the detailed Silver gallery of
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Victorian Butterfly Pendant or Brooch, Diamond, Ruby and Sapphire
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
An exceptionally detailed and fine quality Victorian butterfly brooch/pendant.The wings are
Category

Antique 1880s Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold, Silver

A finely made 19th century Indian Gold Ruby Pendant
Located in London, GB
by an elephant in a procession flanked by his followers. The bale is also set with rubies. The
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Indian Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Late Victorian Diamond and Ruby Set Pig in Silver on Platinum Chain
Located in Yorkshire, West Yorkshire
fully adorned (front and back) with Rose Cut Diamonds and Rubies for eyes. This Pig was hand crafted
Category

Antique 1880s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, Silver

1880 Antique Symbol Rose Cut Diamonds and Rubies Frog Necklace Enhancer Brooch
Located in Roma, IT
fertility. 19 rose-cut diamonds and 73 cabochon cut rubies are exquisitely set to form body, legs and eyes
Category

Antique 1880s Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

15 Carat Victorian Era Ruby and Pearl Necklet 9 Carat Vintage Gold Chain
Located in Hamilton, AU
Carefully modified from a 15 carat yellow gold, silver topped, Victorian era, antique brooch, is
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, 15k Gold

Victorian Angry Tiger Pendant
Located in Los Angeles, CA
14k yellow gold Victorian snarling tiger head pendant. The eyes are rubies, and he has the old
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

Gold Victorian Dragon Pendant
Located in Los Angeles, CA
$1,250 This stunning, unusual Victorian era 14 karat yellow gold pendant features a three
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Cultured Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold

Victorian Diamond Heart Pendant
Located in New York, NY
Pavé old-mine diamond heart-shaped pendant locket set in gold with a pear-shaped ruby at center and
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Rock Crystal, Ruby

Victorian Snake Pendant
Located in Los Angeles, CA
18kt pink gold snake pendant set with a blue sapphire and ruby eyes. Chain is gold filled.
Materials

Sapphire, Ruby

Vintage Gold Ruby and Diamond Heart Pendant
Located in New York, NY
19th Century Gold Ruby & Diamond Heart Pendant; French; Ca 1880
Category

Antique 19th Century French Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

19th Century Ruby Pearl Enamelled Portrait Locket
Located in Sale, Cheshire
Ruby cabochons and Pearls MEASUREMENTS 4.0 x 2.4cm (including bail) WEIGHT 7.8g MARKS No marks
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century Swiss Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold

‘Chadramani’ Ruby and Diamond Cross Pendant
Located in London, W1U 2JG
loved rubies! Rubies are said to be bring good energy, compassion & loyalty. They are also stones that
Category

Antique 19th Century Victorian Chain Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Silver, 14k Gold

A Superb 19th century Gold, Diamond Ruby Locket Pendant
Located in London, GB
The front set with a Spider with a Diamond Head and a Ruby & Rose Diamond body and Black Enamel
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Austrian Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Antique Victorian Acrostic Dear Lucky Clover Locket Pendant
Located in Sale, Cheshire
A sweet Victorian lucky four leaf clover locket with an acrostic message spelled out by the stones
Category

Antique 19th Century English Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Natural Pearl, Ruby, 15k Gold

18 Carat Gold 0.43 Carat Ruby and Diamond Pendant
Located in Birmingham, GB
A quatrefoil design the central ruby is highlighted by sparkling diamonds on an 18ct yellow gold
Category

21st Century and Contemporary British Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

"Qu hier Que Demain" Charm Necklace
Located in New York, NY
since become a French truism for everlasting, constantly expanding love. On this necklace, each 18k
Category

Antique Late 19th Century French Victorian Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Victorian 14 Karat Gold and Rose Cut Diamond Heart Pendant
Located in St.amford, CT
ruby heart. All original to the piece. The diamonds in total weigh almost 2.5 carats. Hand made with no
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Rose Gold

Handcrafted Italian Rose Gold Ruby Emerald and Sapphire Dragonfly Pendant
Located in Birmingham, GB
Italian goldsmiths in Naples, Italy. Inspired by the Victorians, this fabulous dragonfly is encrusted
Category

2010s Italian Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Diamond, 9k Gold, Rose Gold

Antique 18k Gold Diamond Ruby Turning Flower Photo Locket Pendant
Located in Versailles, FR
highlighted by an elegant black enamel and finished with three pinkish red color rubies on the top. There is a
Category

Antique Mid-19th Century French High Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Natural Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold

Opal Snake Head Pendant Circa 1870
Located in Los Angeles, CA
A unique and whimsical Victorian snake head pendant! The snake head is covered in opals with ruby
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Opal, Ruby, 15k Gold

Heart Locket
Located in New York, NY
with Rubies and Pearls. Opens for pictures. All over hand engraved flowers and leaves on back
Category

Antique Late 19th Century American Victorian Necklace Enhancers

Materials

Ruby, Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver

1890s Natural Pearls Old Cut Diamonds Ruby Gold Pendant Locket
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
An exquisite antique European 18Kt yellow gold pendant set with seven untreated, natural white pearls, twelve Old Cut Diamonds and Pink Sapphires. The pendant opens to a class cover...
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Czech Victorian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Silver Russian Multigem Set Miniature Egg Pendant
Located in Sale, Cheshire
marked with the 84 zolotnik, the main body of the egg is set with a cabochon Ruby, Emerald and Sapphire.
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Russian Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Silver

French Vintage Locket Pendant
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A gorgeous French circa 1900s 18KT yellow gold locket, adorned with sixty Burma Rubies weighing
Category

Early 20th Century French Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Ruby and Diamond Pendant with Necklace
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
pendant with necklace and a bright finish. The 24" length necklace features a ruby and diamond
Category

20th Century European Victorian Collectible Jewelry

Materials

Gold, Silver

Victorian Ruby and Diamond Necklace
Located in San Francisco, CA
Old world elegance is beautifully captured in this majestic antique necklace, finely crafted in
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian More Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold

Antique Victorian Ruby Diamond Crescent Moon Gold Necklace
Located in Sale, Cheshire
A classic Victorian ruby and diamond crescent moon necklace, mounted on a period gold belcher chain
Category

Antique 19th Century English Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

18 Karat Victorian Inspired Pearl, Diamond, Ruby and Emerald Choker Necklace
Located in Pikesville, MD
Very well made flexible 18 karat yellow gold Victorian inspired choker necklace featuring two rows
Category

1990s Unknown Victorian Choker Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Emerald, Natural Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Ruby Elephant Gold Pendant
Located in Sale, Cheshire
The mighty elephant, beautifully modelled in 15k yellow gold with rubies for eyes. It dates to c
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Ruby, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian Ruby Diamond Horseshoe Pendant
Located in Sale, Cheshire
A sweet petite antique horseshoe pendant set with rubies and rose cut diamonds. Dating from the
Category

Antique 19th Century English Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Ruby, 9k Gold, Silver

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Victorian Ruby Necklace For Sale on 1stDibs

You are likely to find exactly the victorian ruby necklace you’re looking for on 1stDibs, as there is a broad range for sale. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold, this item was constructed with great care. Find an antique version now, or shop for 219 vintage or 25 modern creation for a more contemporary example of these cherished accessories. Finding the perfect victorian ruby necklace may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 18th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. Finding an appealing victorian ruby necklace — no matter the origin — is easy, but J DAUPHIN, Karen Sugarman Designs and Marina J. each produced a popular version that is worth a look. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes old mine cut and brilliant cut alternatives. When shopping for a victorian ruby necklace, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for unisex or men today than there are for women.

How Much is a Victorian Ruby Necklace?

Prices for a victorian ruby necklace can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $350 and can go as high as $685,000, while this accessory, on average, fetches $3,915.

A Close Look at Victorian Jewelry

The reign of Queen Victoria encapsulates a quickly evolving period of history — and jewelry styles were no exception. No single period has seen such a diverse group of jewelry attributed to it than the Victorian era. Today, there is a vast collection of authentic antique Victorian jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.

Victorian jewelry is named after Queen Victoria, whose reign lasted from 1837 to 1901, making her the second longest-ruling monarch. (She was surpassed by Queen Elizabeth II in 2015.) During this time, different styles of fashion and jewelry came and went. Thanks to our fascination with royalty and swoon-worthy melodramas like Netflix’s The Crown — which is rife with evocative fashion, jewelry and interiors — and the 2017 feature film Victoria Abdul, we are all familiar with her story. After the death of Victoria’s father and three childless uncles, she ascended to the throne at age 18. In 1840, Queen Victoria married the love of her life, her first cousin Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

Queen Victoria loved serpentine jewels, and she had even more power to shape trends than Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle do today. The British monarch’s best-known piece in this mold is the gold coiled-snake engagement ring she received from Prince Albert — the sinuous reptile was considered a symbol of everlasting love.

The Queen's 63-year reign has been divided by historians into the Romantic period, the early happy years, circa 1837–60; the Grand period, marked by the deaths of the Queen’s mother and husband, circa 1860–80; and the late Victorian or Aesthetic period, which lasted from about 1880 until 1901 and ushered in the Belle Époque. Queen Victoria wore her heart on her sleeve, and her fashion and jewelry reflected her emotions.

Romantic period jewelry, which featured common decorative motifs and was embellished with seed pearls, coral and turquoise, was a celebration of the young monarch’s love. Everything changed with the death of Prince Albert, and the Grand period is most often associated with mourning jewelry. Jewelry was smaller, lighter and more dainty during the late Victorian period. During this era, diamonds came into fashion, and semiprecious gems such as amethysts and opals became prevalent, too. Using gemstones for their natural beauty and not their worth was something that jewelers of the era felt passionate about, and this ideology would really become relevant in Art Nouveau jewelry.

Find a collection of authentic antique Victorian jewelry — from rings, necklaces and brooches to a range of other accessories — on 1stDibs. 

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right Necklaces for You

We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners. Today, Van Cleef necklaces, Tiffany necklaces and Cartier necklaces are some of the most popularly searched designer necklaces on 1stDibs.

Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers. 

In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs. 

For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone. 

Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage David Webb necklaces — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt

On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Dior, Chanel and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.