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Couture Chanel Verdura 1930s Byzantine GoldCircleRope Gems PurpleHeartMedallion

130.384,46 €

Angaben zum Objekt

When Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was at her peak during the Art-Deco period as a Parisian couture-fashion designer in the early 1930s and working closely with her favorite jewelry parurier Fulco di Verdura, for one of her clients, she commissioned this one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed medallion brooch with a yellow-gold circle rope of flexible thick chain that dangles from an unseen ornate open-work curvilinear yellow-gold base. Marked only "FRANCE" on the bar pin with a trombone clasp, like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry collected by TheMet museum, its artistry reflects Verdura's colorful organic-form starburst sketches, which you can see from our photo of one of them. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to executing fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for the house founder. These included the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese-military cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. Chanel reproduced some of Verdura's originals for her clients, but those variations featured faux gems. This softly-shaped abstract brooch design suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone geometric jewelry, which otherwise featured linear designs or figurative representation. The deconstructed bouquet of gems mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are discreetly wired to a Baroque-motif frame that dangles a round gem surrounded by a chain halo. Significantly, Verdura was credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to fine jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and the exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image--with an abundance of teardrop pearls and colorful gems above her chest, and with a gold halo surrounding her head--could have inspired the design of our brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. Within five years, as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith in the States, he founded the namesake fine-jewelry company Verdura in New York City. In 1943, he created his distinct yellow-gold circle-rope necklace with detachable links, followed by many other designs featuring circle-rope links. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's direction for this gold medallion may have been sparked by the internationally-newsworthy medal, The Purple Heart, that was revived by the American president to be awarded in 1932 to WWI-serving U.S. male military officers. Around this time, Chanel and Verdura were dressing Hollywood-movie stars such as Gloria Swanson, Katherine Hepburn and Helen Hayes. So Chanel's brooch crafted in Paris may have reimagined the U.S. gold medal for a brave American woman: substituting its white-trimmed red-detailed purple ribbon for gems of similar colors; as well as replacing its hanging gold-framed purple heart featuring a metallic profile of a George-Washington bust, instead with a gold chain surrounding an unembellished head-shaped purple amethyst. Further linking the style of this gem-fringed semi-precious-stone medallion to 1932 beyond the The Purple Heart news, the same year, Chanel presented her one-and-only collection of real-diamond fine jewelry in Paris. Although a design collaboration with her lover Paul Iribe, the pieces were likewise invisibly set in gold or platinum to feature flexible elements that reinterpreted pliable textile fringe or tied ribbons like our brooch. In comparison to early Chanel couture brooches, this is a more unbridled, entirely organic-shaped, relatively-chunky small brooch, which is well proportioned with more complex three-dimensional construction including dangling elements. It was meant to be worn on a bespoke Chanel dress, jacket or hat, unlike a double-prong brooch or fur-clip to pierce a thicker-textile coat. Complimenting the 11 small high-luster teardrop pearls, the purple, violet and pink stones among the 23 gems were cut into pear, fluted or round beads, with the latter shape echoed by the surrounding circle-rope chain. Without significant provenance, the brooch was acquired in London, which happens to be where Verdura had retired. It is also where elaborate-jewelry-collecting Gloria Swanson--who was the first actress to make a million US-dollars--had a home and film-production company. She lived there since 1930 while she divorced her French marquis-titled husband to give birth in 1932 to a daughter fathered by another man, whereafter Swanson retired from cinema within a couple years. Significantly, according to the Wikipedia England biography concerning her personal life, she met this fourth brief husband while she was being fitted by Gabrielle Chanel in Paris for the Swanson-starring 1931 film, "Tonight Or Never". This antique elaborate brooch was well cared for as it is in very good condition with the only sign that it was ever worn on its fastening-pin. Less about its gems, karats or size, our price for the brooch reflects that it is an irreproducible piece of nearly century-old expertly-crafted fine jewelry that seems to be an extremely rare result of the artistic relationship between Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971) and Duke di Verdura (1898-1978, aka Fulco Santo Stefano della Cerda). The personal jewelry with which legendary Chanel is most closely associated throughout her lifetime originated as sketches by Verdura. As Verdura was a copious sketcher, a gouache that led to this Chanel brooch may be found among hundreds that have reportedly survived from the Parisian period of their collaboration, according to exhibition catalogues showcasing a fraction of work in the same style. See our attached photo of a similar Verdura gold-and-amethyst cluster-brooch painting on tracing paper for one of his early-1940s jewelry designs. We checked with the Verdura-company archivist to see if there was a match to our brooch among its thousands of vintage sketches by the Duke that it acquired with the business acquisition. But its art work by Verdura does not predate the company's founding. To recap the important elements of authentication for this brooch, these include: early 1930s couture costume jewelry lone "FRANCE"-stamp that means it was expected to leave the country with its foreign buyer; early 20th-Century trombone clasp used mostly by European fine jewelers; and early-anti-ArtDeco and Byzantine-revival style of Verdura when he was known to use precious materials and rounded gems for couture pieces commissioned by Chanel. For a comparative price, an unsigned Chanel-attributed 1935 poured-glass-decorated enameled cuff reproduced from a design by Verdura sold in a 2016 auction at Christie's for $100,000. Since then, an antique-jewelry expert featured on the American PBS TV-series "Antiques Roadshow" entertained viewers by revealing historic information about a guest's Verdura-for-Chanel circa-1930 couture Maltese-cross enameled sterling-silver cuff, which is adorned with precious rounded gems--notably surrounding a large purple amethyst. It was commissioned for actress Helen Hayes by her husband and later gifted to relatives, who were not willing to sell the heirloom treasure. "To say that this piece is rare is an understatement...having all real stones," said its appraiser to the owner on August 10, 2021. "This is probably one of my favorite things I've ever done on the Roadshow," he concluded when providing a "very conservative auction estimate" of $150,000. The segment, which was filmed in Middletown Connecticut, first aired in January 2022 before the Chanel-retrospective exhibition at London's V&A museum.
  • Schöpfer*in:
  • Design:
  • Metall:
    Gold,Vergoldetes Metall,Gelbgold,18-Karat-Gold
  • Stein:
    Amethyst,Perle,Quarz
  • Steinschliff:
    Gemischter Schliff
  • Gewicht:
    31 g
  • Maße:
    Breite: 55 mm (2,17 in)Tiefe: 25 mm (0,99 in)Länge: 50 mm (1,97 in)
  • Stil:
    Byzantinisch
  • Herkunftsort:
    Frankreich
  • Zeitalter:
    1930–1939
  • Herstellungsjahr:
    1930-1932
  • Zustand:
    Abnutzung dem Alter und der Nutzung entsprechend.
  • Anbieterstandort:
    Chicago, IL
  • Referenznummer:
    1stDibs: LU3244218601662

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