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Very Fine Victorian Dolman

$2,200List Price

About the Item

This is a stunning Victorian dolman, or mantle, dating to the period between 1885 and 1890. These dates have been ascertained by the shape of the sleeves, the design of the passementerie and appliqué trims, and the particular asymmetry of the hem. Developing from earlier bustle styles, which had been more gently rounded, the later 1880s saw a fashion for skirts which were very flat in front, but which were draped over a nearly 90-degree bustle in the back - something affectionately referred to as a 'tea tray' bustle because cartoons of the period joked that one might set a tray upon it as if it were a shelf. These skirts led to the design of mantles like this one, with a long tabard-like extension down the flat front and a very short, flared peplum in back to allow for the abrupt change in angle at the bustle. In the 1890s the bustle fell away into a smoother line, and mantles like this were replaced by the options of more fitted jackets or more voluminous capes. The sleeves on this piece retain the wing-like shape of the late 1870s and early 80s, but have been given a very slight puff at the shoulder, foreshadowing the ballooning sleeve heads of the following decade. The passementrie fringe around the edges is ubiquitous throughout the late 1870s and the 1880s, while the particular pointed shapes of the appliqué and passementerie grew greatly in popularity from the mid 1880s and into the 1900s. The combination of all of these elements results in a date of origin somewhere in the second half of the 1880s. This is an incredibly special, museum-quality piece: indeed, it is quite similar to a dolman housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which has one of the finest costume collections in the world. The cord-edged appliqué is stitched down by hand and accented with beautiful knotted cordwork tassels at the wrists. The highly decorated front panels are a true feat of workmanship, with perfectly symmetrical patterning and a staggering level of detail. The lining is of hand quilted purple silk, and a matching green waist tape has been hand-stitched in to relieve strain on the outer fabric, sadly this tape shows wear and damage. Due to its age, this is an extremely precious garment, and should be treated with the love and care it deserves. It is a very rare and incredibly beautiful piece, and can't help but become the jewel of your collection!

Dimensions:
Length: 49 in (124.46 cm)Marked Size: S-M (US)Bust: 34 in (86.36 cm)Waist: 32 in (81.28 cm)Hip: 38 in (96.52 cm)
Period:
Late 19th Century
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
New York, NY
Reference Number:
Seller: SKU 18S241stDibs: LU1612948462

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