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Vintage Italian black wool tailcoat ("tuxedo")

$658.81

£492.64

€550

CA$907.68

A$989.95

CHF 524.41

MX$11,868.07

NOK 6,678.62

SEK 6,107.11

DKK 4,191.22

About the Item

Vintage Italian black wool tailcoat ("tuxedo") with its original waistcoat, bespoke-made in the 1950s for formal daytime occasions. The tailcoat is cut from dense melton wool with steep peak lapels, a single-button cut-away front and curved tails that finish below the knee (total length 118 cm). Working four-button cuffs, hand-stitched edges and fully hand-padded lapels confirm high-end tailoring. Inside, the body is lined in ivory satin; sleeves are lined in striped viscose twill, a hallmark of mid-century Italian ateliers. The matching waistcoat-same cloth, same atelier-closes with six black corozo buttons, has two welt pockets at the chest and two at the hip, and finishes in a neat V-point that sits perfectly over formal striped trousers. What makes it special • Complete two-piece set (tailcoat + waistcoat) is increasingly rare; most vintage tailcoats have lost the original vest. • Bespoke Italian construction: hand-padded lapels, hand-sewn buttonholes, pick-stitching throughout. • Dense melton wool drapes cleanly, resists creasing and outperforms many contemporary blends. Why the price is fair Modern bespoke morning suits cost well above $2 000 without a waistcoat; comparable vintage sets in similar condition trade between $350-$600. This example offers superior make and Italian provenance within that range. Story / provenance Morning coats evolved from 19th-century riding jackets and became the standard for weddings, Royal Ascot and diplomatic functions. Italian tailors softened the English pattern, adding gentler shoulders and a more defined waist-traits visible here. Condition Very good vintage: outer wool is sound with no moth holes; lining clean; all buttons original; a few lint fibers easily brushed away. Flat measurements (garment closed, laid flat ±1 cm) Tailcoat • Shoulder width 49 cm • Waist 44.5 cm (89 cm circ.) • Hip 50 cm (100 cm circ.) • Back length (collar seam to tails) 118 cm (Chest width not taken; request if required.) Waistcoat • Shoulder width 35 cm • Waist 41 cm (82 cm circ.) • Hip 42 cm (84 cm circ.) • Front length 56 cm These proportions indicate roughly an EU 48 / US 38R; please compare with a well-fitting jacket for best fit. Key details Fabric - black melton wool; ivory satin body lining; striped viscose sleeve lining. Fastenings - black corozo buttons on coat front, cuffs and waistcoat. A complete 1950s Italian "smoking" set that delivers timeless formality for weddings, daytime receptions or collectors of mid-century tailoring.

Dimensions:
Length: 46.46 in (118 cm)Marked Size: 38 (US)Bust: 17.72 in (45 cm)Waist: 17.52 in (44.5 cm)Hip: 19.69 in (50 cm)
Style:
Mid-Century Modern (Of the Period)
Place of Origin:
Italy
Period:
1950-1959
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Milano, IT
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU2057226588832

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