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A Ceremonial two pieces gown in moiré silk faille – England Circa 1845
$4,542.87
£3,390.45
€3,800
CA$6,266.54
A$6,854.57
CHF 3,609.12
MX$81,836.54
NOK 45,998.70
SEK 42,077.84
DKK 28,949.75
About the Item
Circa 1840-1845 England
Two-piece wedding or formal dress, bodice and skirt boned in antique moiré silk faille. Dress with fitted bodice, pointed front, small sleeves and low neckline, laced at the back with eyelets. The skirt is gathered into box pleats and sits on a small round crinoline. Matching jacket bodice with basques, low-cut front and three-quarter pagoda sleeves, highlighted with coloured ribbons. Entirely lined in cream chintz. No flaws to report. Very Good colour and condition.
Dimensions: Equivalent to French size 36-38. Front height 138 cm, back height 145 cm, shoulders 48 cm, bust 90 cm, waist 62 cm, sleeves 43 cm, hips 145 cm.
This early Victorian period wedding dress reflects, through its colour and bold cut, the technological advances made by Queen Victoria's England at the end of Louis-Philippe's reign in France. Firstly, white or cream wedding dresses did not appear in France until several decades later, where in the 19th century people only married in colour, usually green, brown or black in the provinces furthest from urban centres. Although the cut and couture finishes of this dress are very neat, as was always the case among the social elite in the 19th century, what makes it special is the exceptional quality of the moiré fabric, which most likely came from England or from the Lyon Grande fabrique. Moiré silk, a process invented by Tignat in Lyon in 1843, which consists of crushing the fabric by calendering to produce weft effects, was one of the latest technological advances developed in France by Maison Grand Frères. High bust with a haughty bearing, wasp waist, slender arms, sloping shoulders with an inclined neckline, sometimes with extravagant hairstyles, beret sleeves or dress trimmings. The precious silks used were often plain, and the frills were made from the same fabric.
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