Rare 1990 Versace Atelier Egyptian One-of-a-Kind Heavily Beaded Runway Gown

Subversive, maximalist and unabashedly seductive, Gianni Versace’s (1946–97) designs infused high fashion with an entirely new ethos. “I don’t believe in good taste,” the legendary Italian couturier once explained. Instead, he had a sexy good time with fashion — as he did with life.

Today, vintage Versace clothing, handbags and other accessories look astonishingly fresh and freshly relevant. The designer debuted his Atelier Versace line — which was part of his first haute couture collection — in 1989. 

More than any designer before him, Versace mined celebrity, music and Pop art for inspiration. In fact, the New York Times noted in 1997 that the fashion industry “is now driven by contemporary culture because Mr. Versace made it that way.”

Insiders consider his 1991/1992 Autumn/Winter runway show — which featured supermodels Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista lip-synching George Michael’s “Freedom! '90” — the moment when the two worlds of fashion and pop culture became one, changing both forever.

Versace was born in Reggio di Calabria, Italy. His mother was a successful dressmaker who employed more than 40 seamstresses. As a child, little Gianni marveled at her workshop, which would become a university of sorts, where he learned the exceptional construction techniques that were at the foundation of his creative expression.

In 1972, at age 25, Versace moved to Milan to work in fashion. He launched his first collection — and his label — in 1978, with his older brother Santo managing the business concerns. Soon, sister Donatella, whom Gianni dressed and took to discos when she was still a child, joined the family venture, where she had a creative role and managed enormously popular ready-to-wear lines such as Versus.

Vintage Versace — and 1989's Gianni Versace Couture — has become catnip for modern fashion enthusiasts who seek out the now-iconic house codes that originated in the designs of the 1980s and 1990s. His glamorous and seductive apparel — the clingy skirts and slender, strappy party dresses, as well as the erotic magazine ads that publicized them — looms large, but Versace’s art and historical influences were also vast.

Versace was an art collector, and he took on commissions to create costumes for theatrical performances during the 1980s and spoke of looking to numerous cultures for inspiration. This adventurous spirit of design resulted in his creating jewel-toned prints rooted in Grecian motifs, Etruscan symbols, the Italian Baroque and Andy Warholʼs Marilyn Monroe. There were slinky dresses in Oroton, his patented chain-mail textile that draped like satin, and leather bondage ensembles. Sex sold, for both women and men. Wrote the late curator Richard Martin, “[Versace] became the standard-bearer of gay men’s fashion because he eschewed decorum and designed for desire.”

Following Versace’s tragic murder in 1997, Donatella took over the role of artistic director and continued to evolve the house codes with a twist of her feminine and feminist perspective. Today, Santo Versace is chief executive officer of Versace and Donatella is its chief creative officer.

Browse an extraordinary collection of vintage Atelier Versace dresses, evening gowns and more on 1stDibs.

Shapely lingerie models, animal and floral prints and the Mediterranean heritage of Sicily have come to define the romantic and sensual style of Dolce Gabbana, a leading international brand that from its earliest days of corsetry, copious lace and provocative silhouettes has challenged fashion with an audacious vision for femininity.

After meeting in Milan in 1980 while they were both working for Italian designer Giorgio Correggiari, Domenico Dolce (b. 1958) and Stefano Gabbana (b. 1962) would go on to establish their eponymous fashion empire in 1982. Three years later, a breakthrough for the duo materialized in the form of an up-and-coming talent showcase at Milan Fashion Week, where they unveiled an approach to fashion design that broke sharply from that of the era’s reigning Italian houses. By then romantic partners as well as a business, Dolce Gabbana were outsiders. Soon, their distinctive garments — sexy, feathery skirts and stretchy jersey evening dresses that favored full figures — demanded the fashion world’s undivided attention.

Though Dolce Gabbana forged a path in womenswear that would take shape with a 1986 collection called “Real Women,” the brand’s offerings broadened quickly to encompass knitwear, swimwear, lingerie, ready-to-wear, menswear and perfume. In the early 1990s, Madonna helped catapult the luxury house to international stardom: The renowned singer and actress famously tapped the brand to create the looks for her 1993 tour “The Girlie Show.” It saw Madonna working closely with the designers and even starring in their ad campaigns. Dolce Gabbana has continued to develop a high-profile clientele that includes pop sensations such as Beyoncé and Lady Gaga. The latter donned Dolce Gabbana’s armor corset dress in the music video for her hit single “Paparazzi.”

Rather than following the rapidly changing trends of fashion, Dolce Gabbana have instead held to their close-fitting tailoring and decadent designs. The house continues to work with recurring themes such as the culture of Italy and Catholicism, which is manifest, specifically, in their widespread use of black lace, a fabric that references the dresses worn by Sicilian widows. The duo is also inspired by Italian cinema and its icons such as Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren; in 2015 they introduced the Sophia No. 1 lipstick in her honor.

Although Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana separated as a couple in 2005, they continued their business as a creative partnership. In 2012, they closed their less expensive D&G ready-to-wear line to focus on exclusive extravagance, such as their Alta Moda custom pieces. Today, Dolce Gabbana maintains a popularity with a wealthy clientele, and the house’s 2020s collections have featured technological experiments that update traditional styles, such as a bouclé jacket with a pixel-like pattern, as well as throwbacks to the 1990s fashion that made the brand a household name.

Find vintage Dolce Gabbana handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.