Christian Lacroix skirt suit Spring-Summer 1998

At a time when sharp padded shoulders and crisp lines were trending, Christian Lacroix created venturesome clothing that was bubbly, flirtatious and exuberant.

The iconic French fashion designer, whose body of work includes handbags and purses, evening dresses, jackets and lots more, has always favored theater over fashion. He has long integrated corsets and bustles into his work, drawing on diverse cultures and citing epic historical dramas as inspirations. Today he is creating opera costumes, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that his colorful and voluminous garments captured the excesses and defined the extravagant frivolity of the 1980s as well as the sensuality and boldness of the 1990s.

Lacroix studied art history at the University of Montpellier and museum studies at École du Louvre and the Sorbonne in Paris. He aspired to become a museum curator or costume designer but instead entered the world of fashion, specifically haute couture, with the support of his now-wife Françoise Rosenthiel, who helped get his sketches to Hermès. Lacroix was offered an assistant job at the legendary luxury brand and later worked as a designer at the House of Patou in 1981.

Lacroix’s career flourished and his profile soared from then on, as he established his own label in 1987, using layers of fabric and consistently clashing prints in his designs for opulent pouf skirts, vibrant floral maxi day dresses as well as jewelry and watches that commanded attention. He created a ready-to-wear line for Italian manufacturer Genny and dressed dancers at the American Ballet Theatre company.

Lacroix became the artistic director of Italian fashion house Emilio Pucci in 2002, and, over time, he continued to secure work in the fields of theater, opera and other performance art, designing costumes for a range of stage productions. Alongside designs by Stella McCartney, Karl Lagerfeld and others, Madonna wore a corset during her 2004 “Re-Invention World Tour” that was created for her by Lacroix.

Today, the maison founded by the designer in 1987 is owned by the Falic Fashion Group, but Lacroix continues to design womenswear for brands such as Desigual as well as for the stage. His larger-than-life aesthetic has also been translated into a range of accessories and fragrances as well as various interior furnishings such as tableware and household linens. Lacroix has completed interior design projects at a number of hotels and has partnered with the likes of Christofle and other firms over the years. In whatever form it takes, the sumptuousness and glamour of a Lacroix design is unmistakable.

Find a range of vintage Christian Lacroix clothing, jewelry and accessories on 1stDibs.

In the years following the opening of her modest millinery shop, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel became a pivotal designer of both fashionable casual wear and Paris haute couture as well as an icon and arbiter of 20th-century style with her bob haircut and pearls. Today vintage Chanel handbags, jackets and evening dresses are among the most sought-after clothing and accessories for fashion lovers all over the world.

The first Chanel shop was established in 1910 in Paris on rue Cambon by the young milliner Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971), who had picked up the nickname “Coco” while working as a club singer. The boutique drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats. Soon she added a sportswear store in the Normandy resort town of Deauville, where Coco set the tone for her defining sense of style — traditionally masculine garments reimagined for feminine shapes, made from simple jersey fabric.

Effortless and elegant, Chanel's designs promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by complicated layers of fabric and cumbersome corsets. She followed this success with a couture house, opened in 1915 in Biarritz.

But Chanel was not born into a life of glamour. Following the death of her mother, her father left her in an orphanage where she lived until the age of 18. It was there that she learned to sew as well as appreciate the classic pairing of black and white as worn by the nuns.

In 1926, Chanel introduced her first little black dress, reclaiming a color that had once been reserved for mourning and working-class women. That same decade, she debuted her perfume, Chanel No. 5, as well as the Chanel suit with a fitted skirt, inspired by the boxy lines of men’s clothing and employing a sporty tweed. 

Chanel closed her fashion operations during World War II, then returned to the industry in 1954 to design for the functional needs of modern women.

Structure and wearability endured in all of Chanel’s clothing and accessories, like the quilted leather 2.55 handbag — a 1955 update of a 1920s-era design — with its gold-chain shoulder strap that freed up a woman’s hands. The 1957 two-tone slingback pumps had a practical heel height while offering a bold statement in the black tip of the shoes. Her collarless jacket reacted against the constricting styles of Christian Dior's New Look, replacing them with a design that was timeless, an instant classic. 

After Coco Chanel died in 1971, the brand underwent several changes in leadership, including fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who took over as artistic director in 1983. His collections for Chanel displayed his knack for synthesizing old and new, high and low. Lagerfeld revived Chanel ballet flats and thoroughly embraced the classic logo's interlocking CCs, which took the form of a clasp featured on so many of the rare Chanel bags that are much sought after today.

Vintage Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel dresses, coats and other clothing of the 1980s, '90s and 2000s riffed on its iconography, accenting a lexicon of Chanel-isms with tastes of the moment. And as the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, vintage Chanel bags of the 1990s are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings.

Over the years, the company has continued to innovate, such as expanding into ready-to-wear fashion in 1978 and, in 2002, establishing a subsidiary company — Paraffection — dedicated to preserving the heritage skills of fashion artisan workshops. The House of Chanel still operates its flagship on rue Cambon in Paris, where it all began.

Browse vintage Chanel bags, evening dresses, shoes, jewelry and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.