Bonnie Cashin for Coach Tan Leather Watermelon Tote Handbag, 1970 s

The name Bonnie Cashin may not be as recognizable as those of other fashion greats, like Tom Ford, Donna Karan or Bill Blass, but few designers have made as profound an impact on American sportswear. 

Born in 1907, Cashin began her career as a costume designer in the late 1920s, founding her own line, Bonnie Cashin Designs, in 1952. She created uniforms for American Airlines flight attendants and American servicewomen during World War II and collaborated with more than 35 brands, including Ballantyne and Hermès. 

Perhaps best known for her work as lead designer at Coach from 1961 to 1974, Cashin also had a fruitful collaboration, from 1951 to 1977, with the leather manufacturer Sills. For Sills, she playfully mixed and matched materials in her work, and her exceptional coats and other outerwear dazzled with bold patterns an exaggerated sleeves.

Cashin created convertible garments using ingenious engineering and is even credited with the modern concept of layering, which won her a Neiman Marcus award in 1950. So, although her work might be a bit under the radar, those in the know covet Cashin treasures — collectors have evidently snapped up examples of a statement coat she designed for Sills during the late 1960s. The piece, which is made of a chunky mohair yarn woven in a vibrant lime-green-and-black oversize houndstooth pattern, is documented in Stephanie Lake’s 2016 monograph, Bonnie Cashin: Chic Is Where You Find It (Rizzoli).

Vintage Cashin pieces, which were informed by the designer’s global travels, have sparked fervent online discussions, with a growing community of enthusiasts sharing tips on sourcing and thoughtful restoration of her timeless works, particularly her Coach bags. 

Indeed, fifty years after her departure, her contributions to Coach’s identity remain commercially successful and beloved by collectors. The brass turnlock, introduced by Cashin in 1961, is now a hallmark of the brand. And her clever antique-style metal kiss-lock clasps and inset coin-purse pockets were prominently featured in Coach’s New York Fashion Week presentation in 2024.

Nearly a quarter century after her death, in 2000, Cashin’s designs remain strikingly original. Ironically, a designer frequently overlooked in discussions of mid-century fashion is the visionary talent behind pieces that, once seen, are completely unforgettable.

Find vintage Bonnie Cashin bags and clothing for sale on 1stDibs.