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CommeDesGarcons 1997 Lumps&Bumps RunwayLook11 2Piece SheerTop DrapedSkirtDress

7736,14 €

Informazioni sull’articolo

In Comme des Garcons Founder Rei Kawakubo's iconic Spring/Summer 1997 collection titled "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body", which was nicknamed lumps-and-bumps, this navy two-piece set of transparent pullover long-sleeve net tulle blouse and convertible translucent bias-cut draping long skirt or tube dress debuted on the runway in "Look 11" among the Vogue coverage (partly concealed under a navy open robe). Significantly, our pair repeats the fashion show's "Look 1" theme--which was interpreted by TheMet museum curators as "clothing-absence/body-presence"--with a see-through symmetrical top revealing breasts and a bias-cut draped asymmetrical skirt that clings to body curves. Variations of this silhouette were modeled in navy, or red like our primary photo. Many had net-encased organ-shaped down pillows freely inserted into net underlays by the designer to shockingly distort the silhouettes with impossible feminine curves, such as with two kidney-shapes on the back or a tube across the front of the hips. This set will likewise accommodate such padding that is apparent in the Vogue photos if the buyer may own some of these pillows or wish for them to be reproduced. For the original retailed pieces, the pillows were removable, while this navy set purchased by the sole owner at former Barney's New York was not shown on the runway with any. Please note that unlike most of our photos using a backless mostly-limbless mannequin, when worn by the buyer as a skirt this bottom garment will sit higher on the torso at a more flattering angle near the waist and will be a tighter stretch-fit on the hips. Our sole photo where mannequin long legs and hands are visible demonstrates this. TheMet museum, whose Costume Institute made Kawakubo its second living designer to be honored with a retrospective exhibition, was only able to acquire a single runway Look from S/S 1997 that it considers among its most important 20th-Century fashion designs. In its essay, "Our New Acquisitions Of The 1990s", the museum stated about this long narrow stretched silhouette: "Rei Kawakubo invoked fashion history with her use of elegant forms of the torso accentuated by padding." Parsons School of Design Professor Francesca Granata succinctly noted when writing for MOMA about these 1997 designs: "(the) collection challenged the way the silhouette was constructed." Some subtle details of the tailoring should be pointed out. The collar and cuffs are minimally ruffled with topstitching like shirring to add touches of elegance, texture, and shadows beyond a basic long T-shirt shape. Further, the skirt is an unusual Japanese-dyed nylon-blend jersey that feels like lightweight woven wool. Its bias cut and asymmetric seams create unique draping in front, where fabric pools off-center as an "anti-bump" that distorts the silhouette in a different way than the pillows. Although we photographed the set so that both brand tags are positioned in the back, the skirt with asymmetric waist and hem can be rolled down to change the skirt length or rotated in any direction desired to shift the draping or add a pillow. More so, the versatile skirt can be pulled up over the breasts to be worn as a tube dress--with or without the blouse. As an alternative to conceal the wearer's breasts, the fashion show debuted a long tank dress version of this style with a tulle overlay. So adding a simple tank top under the blouse would otherwise suit the designer's intended look. The brand tags remain on both garments, while the material care and date tags were removed by the sole owner, so that the only tag that can be partly seen through the fabric when worn is at the back of the neck. The text "Comme des Garcons" can be read when either tag is flattened, which is like TheMet's S/S 1997 two-piece "accession 1998.516.1a, b", which was also made in Japan in Fall 1996. We noticed that another 1stDibs dealer is offering the same skirt in a two-piece set with a different non-transparent top for several thousand dollars more.
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensioni:
    Taglia indicata: M (JP)
  • Stile:
    lumps bumps (Nello stile di)
  • Luogo di origine:
  • Periodo:
  • Condizioni:
    Usura compatibile con l’età e l’utilizzo.
  • Località del venditore:
    Chicago, IL
  • Numero di riferimento:
    1stDibs: LU3244220187882

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