Skip to main content

Video Loading

Want more images or videos?

Request additional images or videos from the seller

1 of 14

Retro Mauboussin Trabert Hoeffer Ruby and Diamond Gold Bangle, circa 1940s

$25,000List Price

About the Item

Retro Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin Ruby and Diamond Gold Bangle, ca. 1940s An iconic gold bangle by the French-American jeweller Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin, from the 1940s. The bangle has a bold octagon design and features a floral design with two carved natural Burmese rubies of ca. 10 carats, a fine natural Burmese ruby of ca. 1.30 carats and two old-cut diamonds of ca. 1.5 carats, further studded with smaller step cut and round cut diamonds. About Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin The somewhat unlikely alliance between the venerable French jewellery house Mauboussin and the entrepreneurial American jewellers Trabert Hoeffer lasted seventeen years during which time they produced some of the most imaginative and glamourous jewellery of the 1930’s and 40’s. Mauboussin had begun to establish itself in America during the 1920’s and had initially done well, winning a Grand Prize at the French Industrial Exhibition in New York in 1924 and opening a boutique on Park Avenue shortly afterwards. Profiting from the American desire for French fine jewellery which was regarded as the epitome of fashionable chic, they were soon able to open a second branch in Palm Beach, Florida. At the beginning of October 1929 Mauboussin moved its New York premises into a beautiful five story town house on East 51st Street. Unfortunately, less than a month later the American stock market crashed and the firm found itself in increasing financial difficulty over the next few years. It was forced to close both its New York and Palm Beach stores in 1935 and hold a liquidation sale in the December of that year. This unfortunate turn of events left Mauboussin without representation in America, a fact that Howard Hoeffer of Trabert Hoeffer recognised as an opportunity that he could capitalise on. Randolph J. Trabert William Howard Hoeffer had set up in business together in 1926, selling and appraising jewellery and gemstones. They bought a number of historic jewels and gemstones which they would exhibit in order to draw potential clients in to the store and during the early 1930’s they began to associate themselves with Hollywood film studios to whom they would lend jewellery for leading ladies such as Claudette Colbert to wear on screen. They were successful and ambitious in their expansion and the entrepreneurial Hoeffer was quick to buy up Mauboussin jewels and offer the company a partnership at the end of 1935. It was a mutually beneficial arrangement that served both companies well. Trabert Hoeffer acquired a level of prestige that a French name automatically implied and Mauboussin gained a means of keeping its jewellery and name present in the American market. In March 1936, the New York Times announced the ‘merger’ of Trabert Hoeffer Inc. with Mauboussin and within three months the newly formed Trabert Hoeffer – Mauboussin (THM) placed its first advert in Vogue magazine. They introduced a new logo and publicised a unique marrying of French design with New York manufacturing. In reality it was less of a merger and more of a marketing alliance as Mauboussin continued independently in Europe and the THM locations in America were run almost exclusively by Howard Hoeffer with his existing stores in New York, Atlantic City, L.A. and Miami Beach adding the Mauboussin name to their signage. Hoeffer continued his frequent trips to Europe and on his return from the Paris World Fair in 1937, during which he had carefully studied the design and style of jewellery on display, Hoeffer began developing a new collection which over the coming years, would become synonymous with the name Trabert Hoeffer – Mauboussin. The ‘Reflection’ line was designed by Gustave Toth and introduced in 1938, marketed as “the first truly American jewel style”. The pieces were bold and stylish, vibrant and glamourous often utilising yellow gold and with designs that moved away from the geometric shapes of Art Deco jewellery towards a more curvilinear three dimensional profile. These stylistic and material elements were cleverly combined with a ‘modern’ approach to personalisation as the collection allowed the client to select from a series of pre-cast elements which could then be assembled by hand to create a semi-bespoke piece or suite of jewellery, many of which were convertible. Marketed as “Your personality in a jewel” women were encouraged to explore the different options available, reassured that “Whatever your choice…. the result will always be the same: a true reflection of your own personality.” These jewels were made in 14ct as well as 18ct gold, and sometimes platinum, and clients were also encouraged to bring their existing jewellery in for remounting or as THM referred to it – ‘Reflectionizing’. By using mass-manufacturing techniques, a range of different metals and sometimes clients own jewels, the Reflection line was able to produce pieces that were more modestly priced and therefore able to appeal to a far wider audience than either company had previously. The collaborations with Hollywood continued and THM jewels were soon being worn, both on and off screen, by some of the biggest screen stars of the day such as Marlene Dietrich, Mary Pickford and Greta Garbo. As American women began to look more and more towards these glamorous movie stars for fashion and style inspiration, they became walking, talking advertisements for the jewellery. Trademark pieces included cocktail rings sporting large colourful centre stones with cabochons and star stones particularly popular; wide strap bracelets which were often worn in fashionable stacks up the arm; double clips and brooches as well as elegant watches for both men and women. In 1939 Mauboussin returned to America to exhibit at the New York World Fair and Hoeffer made sure to advertise this as widely as possible, encouraging clients to visit their stand at the fair and then come to the THM Park Avenue store to see the jewellery there as well. New THM stores were opened in Palm Beach and Chicago and the company continued to thrive, weathering the wartime scarcities of the early 1940’s by focusing on yellow gold and gems such as citrine and amethyst which could be imported from South America. They also produced price sensitive ranges of small novelty jewellery such as the Zodiac and Initial collections which proved popular. As the 1950’s dawned however, Hoeffer began to disengage from the jewellery world in favour of real estate and without his passion and drive, the business began to suffer. In Paris, Mauboussin had regained full financial strength post war and so it was inevitable that the partnership between the two firms would cease. Formally severed in 1953, the Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin partnership left behind a legacy of glamourous, stylish and original jewellery combining French influenced design with American manufacture and marketing prowess.

Creator:
Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin
Metal:
14k Gold
Stone:
Diamond,Ruby
Stone Cut:
Antique Cushion Cut
Weight:
79 g
Dimensions:
Height: 2.37 in (60 mm)Width: 2.76 in (70 mm)Depth: 1.19 in (30 mm)Diameter: 7.09 in (180 mm)
Style:
Retro
Place of Origin:
United States
Period:
1940-1949
Date of Manufacture:
1940s
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Very good condition.
Seller Location:
Idar-Oberstein, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: BTTHM3900871stDibs: LU65410685982

You May Also Like

Trabert and Hoeffer Mauboussin Sapphire And Diamond Retro Bracelet

By Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin

Located in New York, NY

A stunning and sophisticated Retro bangle bracelet, circa 1940s, designed by the renowned Parisian jeweler, Mauboussin, and retailed to the American market by another famous house of...

Category

Vintage 1940s French Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Trabert and Hoeffer Mauboussin Sapphire And Diamond Retro Bracelet

Trabert and Hoeffer Mauboussin Sapphire And Diamond Retro Bracelet

$124,600 Sale Price

30% Off

Free Shipping

1940s Retro Ruby and Diamond Watch, Bracelet and Brooch Clip

By Concord Watch

Located in Wailea, HI

1940's Retro Ruby and Diamond Watch, Bracelet and Brooch Clip A Truly Remarkable Piece of Jewelry The Watch Detaches As A Stand Alone Brooch Clip Three Carve Rubies Weighing .75 Cara...

Category

Mid-20th Century Unknown Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

1940s Retro Ruby and Diamond Watch, Bracelet and Brooch Clip

1940s Retro Ruby and Diamond Watch, Bracelet and Brooch Clip

$27,000

Free Shipping

W 0.67 in

1940s Retro Emerald and Ruby 14K Gold Large Square Link Bracelet

Located in Houston, TX

An estate Retro wide square link bracelet featuring cabochon emerald center sections flanked by free-form carved rubies, set in 14k yellow gold. The bracelet contains 5 oval cabochon...

Category

Vintage 1940s Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, 14k Gold

1940s Retro Emerald and Ruby 14K Gold Large Square Link Bracelet

1940s Retro Emerald and Ruby 14K Gold Large Square Link Bracelet

$34,800

Free Shipping

W 1.73 in L 8 in

Vintage Trabert Hoeffer-Mauboussin Bracelet Platinum Persian Turquoise Diamond

By Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

Outstanding Art Deco Revival bracelet created by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin in the 1930s. Made of platinum, the bracelet features approximately 127 carats Persian turquoise and 22....

Category

Vintage 1930s French Art Deco More Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Turquoise, Platinum

Vintage Trabert
Hoeffer-Mauboussin Bracelet Platinum Persian Turquoise Diamond

Vintage Trabert Hoeffer-Mauboussin Bracelet Platinum Persian Turquoise Diamond

$130,000

W 1.88 in L 7.5 in

Retro Sapphire and Pearl 14k Yellow Gold Bracelet, circa 1940s

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

This captivating and lovely Retro bracelet from the 1940s is a true masterpiece, crafted in warm 14K rosey yellow gold. The bracelet is adorned with a striking combination of sapphir...

Category

20th Century Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Sapphire, Pearl, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold

Retro Sapphire and Pearl 14k Yellow Gold Bracelet, circa 1940s

Retro Sapphire and Pearl 14k Yellow Gold Bracelet, circa 1940s

$14,800

Free Shipping

W 1.26 in L 7 in

Retro 18k Tri-Color Gold Bracelet, circa 1940s

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

This shining and substantial Retro bracelet from the 1940s is a stunning example of the era’s elegant craftsmanship, beautifully crafted in luxurious 18K tri-color gold. The bracelet...

Category

20th Century Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Retro 18k Tri-Color Gold Bracelet, circa 1940s

Retro 18k Tri-Color Gold Bracelet, circa 1940s

$10,500

Free Shipping

W 0.71 in L 7.25 in

Retro 1940s Wide Diamond and Gold Stylized Dome Bracelet

Located in Miami Beach, FL

Incredible mid 20th century 1940s bracelet featuring three dimensional domed link connected with oval links. The ribbed domes are each accented with a white gold arch that has three...

Category

Vintage 1940s Retro Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold

Retro 1940s Wide Diamond and Gold Stylized Dome Bracelet

Retro 1940s Wide Diamond and Gold Stylized Dome Bracelet

$20,000

Free Shipping

H 0.88 in W 0.92 in D 0.34 in L 7.63 in

Retro Diamond Ruby Buckle Bracelet 14K American Gold 1940s Ludo Vintage Jewelry

Located in Los Angeles, CA

Retro Diamond Ruby Buckle Bracelet 14K American Gold 1940s 66.5 gram Marked and tested 14K 23 mm wide 8.75 inch long 15 pieces of square cut Ruby...

Category

Vintage 1940s American Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Retro Diamond Ruby Buckle Bracelet 14K American Gold 1940s Ludo Vintage Jewelry

Retro Diamond Ruby Buckle Bracelet 14K American Gold 1940s Ludo Vintage Jewelry

$15,750

Free Shipping

L 8.75 in

French 1940s 18 Karat Yellow Gold Reversible Tank Bracelet

Located in Poitiers, FR

Bracelet in 18 karat yellow gold, eagle head hallmark. Tank gold bracelet, it consists of knot-shaped patterns in a decor of lines and gold pearls, ...

Category

Vintage 1940s French Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

French 1940s 18 Karat Yellow Gold Reversible Tank Bracelet

French 1940s 18 Karat Yellow Gold Reversible Tank Bracelet

$8,928

Free Shipping

Old Diamonds 18 Kt Yellow Gold and Ruby Bracelet

Located in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)

A must of a design for this clamper bracelet, with a snake shape. The snake body is composed of black enamel that's alternating with the 18 Kt yellow gold carved design, and on top o...

Category

Antique 1890s Italian Late Victorian Clamper Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Old Diamonds 18 Kt Yellow Gold and Ruby Bracelet

Old Diamonds 18 Kt Yellow Gold and Ruby Bracelet

$16,409 Sale Price

20% Off

Free Shipping

Dm 2.56 in

More From This Seller

Mauboussin Trabert Hoeffer Reflection Gold Earclips and Brooch Set circa 1940s

By Trabert Hoeffer Mauboussin

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

Retro Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin "Reflection" Gold Earclips and Brooch Set, ca. 1940s A very chic set from the 1940s with beautiful and wavy gold work depicting abstract blossoms. The set consists of earclips (2cm diameter) and a central brooch (4cm diameter) and are made in 18k gold. The firm of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin formed in 1929, and became an important presence on New York’s Park Avenue. Much of its success came from its distinctive line of ‘Reflection’ jewellery. The ‘Reflection’ line was the first to introduce the bold shapes and colours of modern European jewellery to America. Under the tag line ‘Reflection – Your Personality in a Jewel’ women were encouraged to decide on the arrangement of the parts themselves and create personalised jewellery...

Category

Mid-20th Century American Retro Clip-on Earrings

Materials

18k Gold

Mauboussin Trabert
Hoeffer Reflection Gold Earclips and Brooch Set circa 1940s

Mauboussin Trabert Hoeffer Reflection Gold Earclips and Brooch Set circa 1940s

$9,700

Free Shipping

1940s Retro Diamond Gold Cluster Ring

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

A beautiful Retro Diamond Ring, ca. 1940s. The shape follows the classic retro features with its curly and bold design. The ring is studded with ca. 2.50 carats of old-cut diamond...

Category

Vintage 1940s Unknown Retro Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, 14k Gold, Platinum

1940s Retro Diamond Gold Cluster Ring

1940s Retro Diamond Gold Cluster Ring

$6,636

Free Shipping

1940s 18k Gold Retro Sapphire and Diamond Clip Brooch

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

A very sleek and elegant Sapphire and Diamond Clip Brooch made in the 1940s, depicting the typical Retro design. The diamonds weigh circa 1 carats and the sapphires weigh circa 1.5 ...

Category

Vintage 1940s Unknown Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

1940s 18k Gold Retro Sapphire and Diamond Clip Brooch

1940s 18k Gold Retro Sapphire and Diamond Clip Brooch

$7,000

Free Shipping

Cartier Retro Diamond Feathers Ring, ca. 1940s

By Cartier

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

Cartier Retro Diamond Feathers Ring, ca. 1940s A beautiful Cartier diamond ring from the 1940s. The ring has three central diamond elements following the...

Category

Vintage 1940s French Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Cartier Retro Diamond Feathers Ring, ca. 1940s

Cartier Retro Diamond Feathers Ring, ca. 1940s

$30,619

Free Shipping

1940s Ruby Diamond Flower Cluster Ring

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

An unusual Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring, ca. 1940s. Centring an old-cut diamond of ca. 0.85ct (ca. I/VS1), surrounded by six ruby petals, accentuated by another flower studded wi...

Category

Vintage 1940s Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

1940s Ruby Diamond Flower Cluster Ring

1940s Ruby Diamond Flower Cluster Ring

$7,239

Free Shipping

Boucheron 18K Yellow Gold Diamond and Sapphire Double Clips Brooch Retro 1940s

By Boucheron

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

Important double clips in 18k yellow gold from the Retro period, ca. 1940s. These collectable clips were made by Boucheron Paris in a very dynamic design with sapphire baguettes and ...

Category

Mid-20th Century French Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

Boucheron 18K Yellow Gold Diamond and Sapphire Double Clips Brooch Retro 1940s

Boucheron 18K Yellow Gold Diamond and Sapphire Double Clips Brooch Retro 1940s

$26,000

Free Shipping

More Ways To Browse

Old European Cut Diamond Mens Ring

14k Gold Antique Amethyst Brooches

Octagon Art Deco Ruby Ring

14k Gold Gem Bracelets

Suite Of Jewellery

Suite Of Jewelry

Ruby And Gold Art Deco Watch

Diamond Watch Art Deco Cocktail

French Art Deco Watch Ring

1940s 14k Gold Bracelets

Art Deco Watches New Old Stock

Trabert And Hoeffer

Art Carved Floral Ring 14k

Burma Ruby Five Stone Ring

Mauboussin Ruby And Diamond

10 Carat Burmese Ruby

Mauboussin Antique

Vintage Clamper Bracelets

View All Popular Clamper Bracelets Searches