Items Similar to Henry Schreiner 1930s ProngSetCrystal Flora Spray Paisley ShadowBox Gilt Brooch
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 10
Henry Schreiner 1930s ProngSetCrystal Flora Spray Paisley ShadowBox Gilt Brooch
$3,410
£2,588.81
€2,984.47
CA$4,823.92
A$5,193.38
CHF 2,781.16
MX$62,578.43
NOK 35,090.51
SEK 32,113.48
DKK 22,301.17
About the Item
Henry Schreiner, the Austrian-born blacksmith founder of Schreiner New York in 1932, handcrafted this multi-color prong-set Bavarian-crystal, stylized-flora spray, gold-gilt brass brooch before he began designing more extravagant silver-soldered settings in the early 1940s (see our other listing for the colorless crystal demi-parure).
For some of the leading fashion designers since the mid-1930s such as American Norman Norell and French Christian Dior, Henry Schreiner finished such custom-order pieces unsigned to accompany seasonal clothing ensembles in the tradition of European couture sets, such as those commissioned by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.
Like the more linear, airy and asymmetrical early Schreiner pieces that can be distinguished as those made by the founder, this elegant large brooch features sprawling overlapping wire arrangements with widely spaced soldered single or pre-cast double settings that appear scattered and delicate as if on thin branches.
The hand-arranged twisted wires are imperceptibly soldered to one or two edges of his recognizable "paisley shadowbox" frame (see online schreinery photos of a signed-Schreiner style Y0MEQN, as well as an earlier unsigned shadowbox MQV4EF with square eight-prong crystal settings that match our unsigned brooch). In contrast to the belt buckles that were among his first costume jewelry, Henry Schreiner sometimes assembled the metal strips of a brooch frame sideways on an edge for added depth and shadows. More so, the hinge for the long matching-metal pin and its safety clasp are neatly soldered along the back edge of the central strip without an extra support bar.
Further identifying the brooch, Schreiner's granddaughter published some family secrets about at least flower or strawberry brooches by Henry Schreiner: "always have the end of the stem/wire hammered to flatten it" (also published in Rhinestones! by Nancy N. Schiffer, see the schreinery photo of the long-stem flower brooch with a hammered end like ours, which is style GA357L with notable matching earrings that have one of the earliest kind of clips used by Henry Schreiner who died in 1954). Comparatively, similarly styled handcrafted flora-stem brooches, such as some produced later by the Schreiner family, Countess Cis Zoltowska, or Original by/Robert/Fashioncraft, do not have hammered ends.
Most of the signed brooches produced after Schreiner's death under the direction of his late daughter Terry and her designer husband Ambros Albert included a versatile pendant hook for specially-made chains, layered hook-and-eye construction, unfoiled inverted stones, and were often mixed with uniquely elongated plastic or painted aurora-borealis glass jewels in a chunkier tighter arrangement, such as the popular "ruffle" design with wavy settings first produced in 1957.
In typical Schreiner style, the custom-made Czech rhinestones in six faceted shapes and colors--foiled cranberry, pink, green, lime and grey, plus unfoiled aqua--are positioned at different angles in three dimensions for maximum sparkle. Given its over 80-year-old age, the palest foiled crystals are likely darker than when new, while the brass has minute gilt loss at edges and stem ends seen with a loupe.
Signed and unsigned Schreiner brooches with similar structure, arrangement and settings can be seen among the photos found in the book by Carole Tanenbaum and Eve Townsend, titled Schreiner: Masters of Twentieth-Century Costume Jewelry, as well as online at the schreinery site associated with the authors. We encourage you to cross-reference our Henry Schreiner pieces with the unsigned ones that they authenticated, along with these schreinery-published styles: Schreiner-signed ZJ3EPU linked to other similarly structured hammered-end brooches; as well as styles RQG55Y and 20RBGF-001 submitted or published by Tanenbaum that include the aforementioned unusual eight-pronged setting for square crystals like found on our brooch,
- Creator:
- Metal:Brass,Yellow Gold,Gilt Metal
- Stone:Crystal
- Stone Cut:Mixed Cut
- Weight:1.3 ounces (lb)
- Dimensions:Width: 3 in (76.2 mm)Depth: 1 in (25.4 mm)Length: 5 in (127 mm)
- Style:Artist
- Place of Origin:United States
- Period:1930-1939
- Date of Manufacture:late 1930s
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244220994172
About the Seller
5.0
Vetted Professional Seller
Every seller passes strict standards for authenticity and reliability
Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
32 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: <1 hour
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Shipping from: North Adams, MA
- Return Policy
More From This Seller
View AllSchreiner 1950s ProngSet UniqueGreen ABCrystals PaveCrystalLeaves Silver Brooch
By Schreiner of New York
Located in Chicago, IL
This colorful prong-set crystal spray brooch by Schreiner New York was made to compliment luxury clothing by a U.S.-based fashion designer, such as Pauline Trigere, in the late 1950s. This piece is special because it shows the unique decorative technique that Schreiner used for a period of several years in reaction to the limited availability of the first aurora-borealis (AB) stones by Swarovski in 1956, which had been designed for Christian Dior.
In response to the availability of only the initial AB color that mostly reflected bright blue and the high demand from other designers, Schreiner's creative family soon applied transparent glass paint to create additional colors, such as the light-green painted AB crystals on this brooch. According to Henry Schreiner's late daughter who took over the business with her jewelry-designer husband, this enabled them to become the first to produce costume jewelry with AB stones in different colors, while Swarovski took several years to introduce similar colors.
All original painted AB crystals are intact in this brooch, which is significant since a lost stone...
Category
Vintage 1950s American Modern Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Silver, Brass
GripoixChanelGoosens RenaissanceStyleGiltBronzeOpenwork GlassCabochonGems Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
With distinct handmade glass by French Maison Gripoix for a faux-amethyst 25mm domed open-back oval cabochon poured into a forged wire ring topped with a serrated-bezel setting, this...
Category
Vintage 1950s French Renaissance Revival Brooches
Materials
Turquoise, Chalcedony, Amethyst, Gilt Metal, Bronze, Yellow Gold
$4,490 / item
Free Shipping
Couture 1939-50Schiaparelli-SchlumbergerPeriod GlassBeads ProngSetCrystal Brooch
By Artisan NYC
Located in Chicago, IL
In the style of Elsa Schiaparelli couture costume-jewelry and one of her paruriers since the late 1930s, Jean Schlumberger, this handcrafted highly-textural glass-and-crystal rhodium...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Pearl, Silver, Rhodium
$10,220
Free Shipping
Antique FabergeStyle 3AquamarineCabochons 4GreyDiamonds BezelSet WhiteGold Pin
Located in Chicago, IL
This antique Victorian white-gold bar-brooch or tie-pin from the Edwardian period with Faberge-style elements features bezel settings with three square-cut 10mm sugarloaf aquamarine ...
Category
Antique Early 1900s European Edwardian Brooches
Materials
Diamond, Aquamarine, Black Diamond, White Gold
MiriamHaskell WWII PurpleGlassFlowers GoldLeaves WiredPlasticBack Pre1945 Brooch
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
Beginning in 1939, Miriam Haskell asked her first costume-jewelry designer Frank Hess to spare the use of metal during WWII while war materials were needed in the United States. So t...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Baroque Revival Brooches
Materials
Mixed Metal
MiriamHaskell 1930s Shells RussianGilt Filagree BrassFlora WoodLeaf Clip Brooch
By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
Located in Chicago, IL
This early Miriam Haskell lacquered-shell and brass-and-wood-decorated clip brooch was created by Frank Hess, her first designer since 1926. The c.1930 brooch features three seashell...
Category
Vintage 1930s American Baroque Revival Brooches
Materials
Gold, Base Metal, Brass, Gilt Metal
$1,036 Sale Price
65% Off
Free Shipping
You May Also Like
Czech Gilt Metal and Multi Coloured Glass Floral Brooch circa 1930s
Located in London, GB
Beautiful Czech gilt metal floral brooch, with lovely multi coloured glass stones. Measuring length 5.5 cm / 2.1 inches by 4.4 cm / 1.7 inches. The brooch is in very good condition. ...
Category
Vintage 1930s Czech Brooches
Art Deco 1930s Czechoslovakian Rhinestone and Glass Vintage Floral Brooch
Located in Skelmersdale, GB
This lovely brooch, reflects the craftsmanship and eye for detail so characteristic of Czechoslovakian jewellery design. It dates from the 1930s...
Category
Vintage 1930s Czech Art Deco Brooches
Floral-motiv brooch with gold-ton metal, rhinestones prong set. USA 1950s
Located in Stuttgart, DE
Large rhinestones brooch in flamboyant fantasy colors were popular features of flower broochs during the 1950s and 60s. Many different cut rh...
Category
Vintage 1950s American Romantic Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Brass
Art Deco bar brooch with colorful pressed glass flower and leaves, USA 1940s
Located in Stuttgart, DE
A narrow bar brooch with rose and light blue glass flowers and small leaves, surrounded by many small rhinestones. The small flowers and leaves were not ground, but the liquid glass...
Category
Vintage 1940s American Art Deco Brooches
Materials
Crystal, Rhodium
$656 Sale Price
20% Off
Free Shipping
Vintage 1940s Retro Multi-Gem Flower Bouquet Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 14k rose and white gold with Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Cats-eye, Diamonds, and a Moonstone.
Circa 1940s
2 1/4 x 2 1/2
Category
Vintage 1940s Retro Brooches
Materials
14k Gold
1980s Genuine Multicolor Gemstone Gold Floral Brooch
Located in New York, NY
This stunning floral branch brooch is made in 18k yellow gold and prong-set with genuine faceted gemstones: amethyst, aquamarine, garnet, green tourmaline and pink tourmaline - weigh...
Category
Vintage 1980s American Brooches
Materials
Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, Garnet, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
More Ways To Browse
Vintage Wells Jewelry
Christian Dior Box Jewelry Box
Norman Norell Vintage
Paisley Brooch
Vintage Austrian Crystal Brooch Pins Brooches
Vintage Schreiner Brooch
Stem Flower Brooch
Vintage Jewelry Shadow Box
Shadow Box Jewelry
Strawberry Brooch
Coco Chanel Long Gold Belts
Signed Schreiner
Enamel Marcasite
Green Stone Brooch
Jean Vitau 18k
Krementz Pearl
Large Butterfly Brooch
Large Emerald Brooch