Medieval Brooches

Chanel's appropriation of Byzantine and Renaissance forms continued throughout her career, often in the form of oversized cruciform brooches and pendants. This one is set in bronz...

When Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was at her peak during the Art-Deco period as a Parisian couture-fashion designer in the early 1930s and working closely with her favorite jewelry parurier Fulco di Verdura, this one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed medallion brooch, with 18k-yellow-gold circle-rope flexible thick chain dangling from an ornate open-work curvilinear base on the reverse, was commissioned by her to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" on the bar pin with a trombone clasp like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (mostly without a brand stamp until the mid-1950s), its artistry reflects Verdura's colorful organic-form starburst sketches (see our photo of one of them). The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to executing fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These included the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese-military cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This brooch design suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco asymmetrical aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone geometric jewelry, which otherwise featured linear designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are discreetly wired to a Baroque-motif frame that dangles a round gem surrounded by a flexible rope-chain halo. Significantly, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and the exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls and colorful gems above her chest with her head surrounded by a golden halo could have inspired this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in New...

Massive Chanel Cross Brooch in shades of emerald, ruby, topaz and amythest poured glass cabocheons with faux baroque round and pear shape pearls. I...

A beautiful Chanel Crystal Brooch from 2005.Designed in a Byzantine style. Featuring four large green faceted crystals interspersed with an equal...

Stunning French jewelry designer Henry Perichon (also known as Henry) gilt bronze brooch. The dangling shape, with Medieval design influences, is adorned with poured glass cabochons ...

Massive Multi Colored Byzantine Crest pendant brooch made by Maison Gripoix, France. Poured glass with rhinestone encrustations forming a large crest ...

Chanel byzantine style crest brooch by Maison Gripoix. Poured glass emerald and ruby oval and heart shape cabochons are mixed with faceted cut topaz stone...

French jewelry designer Henry Perichon (also known as Henry) created this stunning gilt bronze pin brooch. The Medieval-inspired design is ornate with ovoid poured glass cabochons an...

This vintage set of signed Hattie Carnegie enamel clip on earrings and small pin and or pendant is reminiscent of a bygone era of Elizabethan meets byzantine influence. The colors ar...

S.Georgios designer pendant enhancer is handmade in 18 Karat yellow gold. It is microscopically decorated with granulation work beads and wires and has a gorgeous unique velvet backg...

Rare, large Ostrogothic silver eagle-headed buckle, circa 6th Century A.D. A bold projecting eagle head profile set with a cabochon ruby color glass eye, the neck chased with linear ...

Massive Chanel Cross Brooch in shades of emerald, topaz and amythest poured glass cabocheons with faux pearls by Maison Gripoix. Intricate scroll...

An exquisite 1980s massive brooch created by French designer Edouard Rambaud, Paris. The piece features a Byzantine-inspired design with a gilt metal cross that is textured, carved, ...

This stunning French Jewelry designer Henry Perichon (aka Henry) gilt bronze brooch has an undeniable medieval revival feel. The bronze metal frame boasts antique Middle-Age design i...

Chanel large square shaped cruciform pendant-brooch composed of ruby, emerald, and pearl square cabochons. The center being a signature "Chanel" coin medallion...

Coco Chanel Early Byzantine heart brooch, The silvered metal heart set with crystal pastes and appliqued with faux emerald hand formed pate de verre ro...

Glamorous Roger Jean Pierre French brooch clip from the 1950's with aurora and clear crystal paste stones. The fur clip is attached to a tiered elem...

Dramatic 18k yellow gold filagree bow brooch pendant featuring a leaf and scroll design accented with cabochon emerald and man made faceted rubies. The back has a "c" clasp and a hook so you can wear it as a pendant / enhancer as well. The rubies are synthetic and the emerald cabochons are cracked - I believe this piece was made during World War II and they used family stones and what they could get their hands on. 3.8" across by 2.35" wide This piece is in the Byzantine Style. Below is the history of Byzantine Jewelry from Lang Antiques: Byzantine jewelry was a full continuation of the Roman traditions which were kept alive behind the high walls of the new capital, Constantinople. The Roman techniques and styles continued to form the foundation of Byzantine goldsmith‘s skills who weren’t complete copycats; some innovations such as the use of Christian iconography and further specialisation of new and old techniques occurred. Production in the old jewelry centres of Alexandria and Antioch gave way to an increased production in Constantinople. Byzantine jewelry had a huge influence on the manufacturing of personal decoration in the rest of the Medieval world. The Carolingian (start 742 AD) and the later Ottonian courts (start 962 AD) were linked to the Byzantine empire and adopted their fashion resulting in the northern European Romanesque jewelry style. In the Byzantine Empire jewelry...

Rich in detail and artistry, this antique 14k gold stickpin (circa 1910) portrays a finely painted enamel portrait of a Byzantine woman, her regal presence enhanced by a crown set wi...

S.Georgios designer Pendant - Brooch is all handmade from solid 18 Karat White Gold and custom-made. This stunning jewel is microscopically decorated with granulation work with yello...

S.Georgios designer Unique Butterfly Pendant - Brooch is handmade in 18 Karat Yellow Gold all custom-made. This gorgeous jewel is microscopically decorated with granulation - yellow ...

Made from 21kt yellow gold, this exquisite peacock pin features a stunning 13.50ct Burma Ruby as its centerpiece, boasting a vibrant red hue and oval shape. Surrounding the ruby are ...