Vintage Damiani Cognac Chequerboard Diamond Earrings in 18k Yellow Gold

When Enrico Grassi Damiani opened a goldsmith workshop in Valenza, Italy, in 1924, he established a brand that would completely change the jewelry industry. The seductive shapes that he sketched were translated into sculptural gold Damiani necklaces and rings and accented with diamonds and other precious stones, garnering the attention of Italy’s upper class. The jeweler’s designs, inspired by cityscapes as often as they were flowers and other natural-world forms, would find loyal patrons in the wealthy and now are celebrated as timeless works.

Even today, a ring Damiani designed during the early 20th century in tribute to Queen Margherita continues to inspire the Margherita collection with its daisies of diamonds and gold. One of Damiani’s 1920s designs was the Charleston necklace, a collier with a feather shape adorned with approximately 1,000 diamonds, inspired by revolutionary American-born French dancer and singer Josephine Baker, who’d taken to the stage sometimes clad in little more than pearl jewelry and a feather skirt.

For the next 40 years, Damiani maintained its status as the premier jeweler to Italy’s elite, adapting to restrictions on materials during World War II with pieces that saw an innovative integration of metal alloys and iron. After the war, Damiani’s son, Damiano Grassi Damiani, took over the family business and catapulted the Damiani name onto the international stage.

In the 1970s, Damiano led Damiani to become one of De Beers’s main partners, associating the Italian name with luxury and opulence in high-quality diamonds. He also introduced catalogues, which guaranteed fixed pricing, something radical for fine jewelry. In 1976, Damiani won the prestigious Diamonds International Award for its Shark bracelet, which Damiano’s wife, Gabriella Colombo Damiani, designed using two-toned gold and diamonds.

Following Damiano’s death in 1996, Gabriella took the helm, bringing on her three children — Silvia, Guido and Giorgio — to help oversee the company’s creative direction. In the 2000s, its expansion included new boutiques around the world as well as celebrity collaborations, such as the line of jewelry designed by actor Brad Pitt and goldsmiths in Valenza now available for customers as the D.Side.

Other celebrity partnerships included Sharon Stone, who collaborated on the Maji line to support clean water in Africa, and the Sophia Loren collection, which was inspired by the iconic style of the Italian actress. In 2009, Damiani designed the Harlequin Fantasy Bra for the annual Victoria’s Secret fashion show. The garment took 15 artisans more than 800 hours to craft by hand using 2,355 colorless and cognac-colored diamonds.

Today, the company continues to innovate creatively on its heritage with an eye toward the future, from the timeless Belle Époque collection, inspired by the sketches of founder Enrico Grassi Damiani, to diamond-adorned Apple watch covers.

Find a collection of Damiani jewelry for sale on 1stDibs.