Marina J. Black and White Woven Pearl Sautoir with Abalone Shell Ombre Tassel

Elsa Schiaparelli famously embraced "shocking pink" for her Surrealist-aesthetic couture clothing and handcrafted costume jewelry, which she commissioned from Parisian paruriers beginning in the late 1920s--when some of the most expensive gems were fuchsia Burmese rubies. In this antique glass-beaded sautoir tassel necklace, 37 unusual fuchsia faux-pearls are each delicately caged like hot-air balloons by seven textural strands of faux-pearl-and-gold seed beads. These spherical stations are spaced by lustrous white medium-size faux pearls, ending in a four-strand seed-bead tassel that cages four of the fuchsia beads. The beads are strung on bright magenta silk cord without a clasp. Sautoirs were an essential element of flapper style since Schiaparelli's couture-mentor Paul Poiret changed the silhouette of clothing in the 1920s, while the long necklaces remained popular until wartime 1939. To compete with her rival couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Schiaparelli (1890-1973) relied on the same French glassmakers, Maison Gripoix and Louis Rousselet--the masters of faux pearls at the time who added organic-ingredient coatings to their handmade glass beads. Either glass workshop that was established by the 1920s could have been commissioned to make the progressive hot-pink pearls for this unsigned necklace that dates to the Art-Deco period. The design of this highly-textural tricolor sautoir featuring fuchsia spheres could suit the style of one of Schiaparelli's most frequent paruriers through the 1930s, Jean Clement. Some of his relevant unsigned work for Schiaparelli is in museum collections like The Met, including highly-textural tricolor sphere-decorated buttons/brooches and a fuchsia-toned metal-rosebud bead necklace. After Schiaparelli had become associated with fuchsia, she made particularly prolific use of this bright magenta in the late 1930s. In her demi-couture collections such as "Circus" and "Comedia dell' Arte" (see our 3 photos), fuchsia jackets are adorned with similar colorful spherical glass beads among embroidered appliques and animal/clown brooches, as well as whimsical painted-ceramic buttons...

Chanel Sautoir with Lilac and Celadon Pearls, handmade by Maison Gripoix. Handmade Lilac and celadon toned faux pearls are hand wire wrapped onto the gilt bronze chain. Closes with lobster clasp and CC logo insignia. 48", 10 mm Pearls...

UNKNOWN - Costume pearl sautoir necklace with glass pearl. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Length: 93 cm Seller Reference: BC2

Masterpiece beyond compare; 18k White Gold Pearl and Tanzanite Beaded Tassel, an unparalleled fusion of enduring elegance and nature's splendor....

Abalone is a gastropod shellfish which has an ear-shaped shell and producing these elongated shells are rare. (60) varying lengths up to 1-1/4 inches in length are strung on silk a...

This stunning necklace combines elegance and natural beauty, making it a perfect statement piece for any occasion. The design features: Organic shapes of double-sided abalone shell...

Fabulous long sautoir necklace, with faceted french jet and clear beads, an oval french jet and paste stone pendant, and ornate long beaded tassel. The necklace closes with a barrel ...

Yves Saint Laurent mixed pearl sautoir with grey and white pearls separated with paste rondels. Can be worn long or doubled. 36" long. 20mm pearl largest pe...

These natural beautiful brilliant white Pearl shells are all approximately 12mm. The spacers are gem-cut little 6mm black onyx. This necklace is 19 inches long and the clasp is an ...

Beautiful and highly collectable long Chanel sautoir dating from 1981. No clasp, goes over the head and can be worn long or layered. Red cut crystal and faux pearls in a gold tone metal setting. Small circular gold Chanel tag...