Trifari 1930s Philippe Gold Textural DropEarrings Tassel HeavyChain Sautoir

Elsa Schiaparelli famously embraced "shocking pink" for her Surrealist-aesthetic couture clothing and handcrafted costume jewelry, which she commissioned from Parisian paruriers beginning in the late 1920s--when some of the most expensive gems were fuchsia Burmese rubies. In this antique glass-beaded sautoir tassel necklace, 37 unusual fuchsia faux-pearls are each delicately caged like hot-air balloons by seven textural strands of faux-pearl-and-gold seed beads. These spherical stations are spaced by lustrous white medium-size faux pearls, ending in a four-strand seed-bead tassel that cages four of the fuchsia beads. The beads are strung on bright magenta silk cord without a clasp. Sautoirs were an essential element of flapper style since Schiaparelli's couture-mentor Paul Poiret changed the silhouette of clothing in the 1920s, while the long necklaces remained popular until wartime 1939. To compete with her rival couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Schiaparelli (1890-1973) relied on the same French glassmakers, Maison Gripoix and Louis Rousselet--the masters of faux pearls at the time who added organic-ingredient coatings to their handmade glass beads. Either glass workshop that was established by the 1920s could have been commissioned to make the progressive hot-pink pearls for this unsigned necklace that dates to the Art-Deco period. The design of this highly-textural tricolor sautoir featuring fuchsia spheres could suit the style of one of Schiaparelli's most frequent paruriers through the 1930s, Jean Clement. Some of his relevant unsigned work for Schiaparelli is in museum collections like The Met, including highly-textural tricolor sphere-decorated buttons/brooches and a fuchsia-toned metal-rosebud bead necklace. After Schiaparelli had become associated with fuchsia, she made particularly prolific use of this bright magenta in the late 1930s. In her demi-couture collections such as "Circus" and "Comedia dell' Arte" (see our 3 photos), fuchsia jackets are adorned with similar colorful spherical glass beads among embroidered appliques and animal/clown brooches, as well as whimsical painted-ceramic buttons...

For Trifari by mid-century, its artistic director French-born Alfred Philippe designed this yellow-gold set including the seven-bar linked collar with central invisibly-set diamante,...

This antique French chain necklace with three-inch drop features 33 natural citrines including 16 polished-teardrop and 17 faceted-bead golden quartz. It was constructed by hand from...

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel commissioned French Maison Gripoix in the 1930s to fabricate this elegant handmade chain choker necklace for one of her couture clients. In the Mughal style t...

Elevate your jewelry collection with the Claire Deve Circa 1980s Gold-Tone Beaded Rope Tassel Lariat Necklace, a stunning testament to the bold designs of the era, made in Paris. Thi...

Elevate your look with this elegant lariat Ncklace, crafted in luminous 14 karat gold. Featuring a refined rope- style chain and a fluid tassel drop, this piece strikes the perfect b...

This 14k gold tassel necklace blends classic charm with adjustable versatility. Featuring a twisted rope chain design, the necklace is anchor...

Necklace in 18 karat yellow gold, owl hallmark. This splendid antique necklace in yellow gold features a wide orvet chain, knotted at the front and ending asymmetrically with 2 gold ...