Classic Retro Era Italian Tubogas Collar Necklace in 18K Gold

We acquired this dramatic and sexy collar in 2024. It's a custom piece, reportedly made sometime between 1960 and 1980 by a Los Angeles goldsmith, but the piece is not signed. We would find this surprising if not for the fact that our own goldsmith rarely signs anything unless we ask him...repeatedly. So leaving that mystery aside, we are proud to offer such a stunning piece. The front-facing half of the necklace is made from five graduated plaques, each boasting meticulously finished openwork plus diamonds and "Big Three" gemstones. Each plaque is hinged to its neighbor with a sturdy ring. The back of the necklace has a nicely integrated box clasp (with figure 8 safety catch) plus four solid, unembellished bar links, curved and carefully graduated. The plaques graduate from 40mm wide x 25mm tall in the center front to 21mm wide x 7mm tall at the back. All but the back two solid plaque links are trapezoids -- not rectangles -- fashioned to angle perfectly in the three dimensional human space where the necklace will hang. Between the front and back, on each side, are two "transition" links -- a great detail that highlights some real design talent: First is a link that includes three bezel-set gemstones but no openwork, and next is a link that just includes a triangular sliver of open space, thus creating a natural transition to the solid links. Amazing workmanship! The nine diamonds are all brilliant cut rounds pavé-set in little white gold square plates...

This striking and sexy handmade chain in rich 18 karat yellow gold features hammered gold oval links that lie flat against the skin, nicely separated, thanks to figure eight connecto...