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"Big 3" Gems
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Collar Necklace of 18K Gold Openwork Plaque Links Set w Diamonds
"Big 3" Gems
$14,800
£11,315.87
€12,952.91
CA$20,869.78
A$22,719.10
CHF 12,128.02
MX$274,271.68
NOK 152,494.80
SEK 141,733.88
DKK 96,739.47
About the Item
We acquired this dramatic and sexy collar in 2024. It's a custom piece, reportedly made sometime between 1960 and 1980 by a Los Angeles goldsmith, but the piece is not signed. We would find this surprising if not for the fact that our own goldsmith rarely signs anything unless we ask him...repeatedly.
So leaving that mystery aside, we are proud to offer such a stunning piece.
The front-facing half of the necklace is made from five graduated plaques, each boasting meticulously finished openwork plus diamonds and "Big Three" gemstones. Each plaque is hinged to its neighbor with a sturdy ring.
The back of the necklace has a nicely integrated box clasp (with figure 8 safety catch) plus four solid, unembellished bar links, curved and carefully graduated.
The plaques graduate from 40mm wide x 25mm tall in the center front to 21mm wide x 7mm tall at the back. All but the back two solid plaque links are trapezoids -- not rectangles -- fashioned to angle perfectly in the three dimensional human space where the necklace will hang.
Between the front and back, on each side, are two "transition" links -- a great detail that highlights some real design talent: First is a link that includes three bezel-set gemstones but no openwork, and next is a link that just includes a triangular sliver of open space, thus creating a natural transition to the solid links. Amazing workmanship!
The nine diamonds are all brilliant cut rounds pavé-set in little white gold square plates. They're good quality (G-H color and VS clarity) stones with an estimated weight of 0.60 to 0.70 carats.
The colored gemstones are set in yellow gold bezels and are approximately 2mm. There are 8 rubies, 5 emeralds and 6 sapphires. The combined weight of all 19 "Big Three" stones is estimated at 0.60 carats.
The plaques are 1.5mm thick, making this a heavy and substantial piece -- fully 94.5 grams.
This necklace was sized to wear very high on the neck -- a collar as opposed to a choker. It's 14.5" long and won't fit necks larger than 13-1/8" in circumference. If you would prefer a longer length, we can cast additional links in 18 karat gold to match the existing necklace, so just let us know and we'll give you an adjusted price.*
* If modified, the necklace is not returnable.
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:94.5 g
- Dimensions:Length: 14 in (355.6 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:Circa 1970
- Condition:Polished. Piece does not appear to have seen much wear; all hinges and mechanisums are in perfect order, the settings are firm, the stones are in good condition and we have polished the piece front and back to remove any light surface scratches.
- Seller Location:Sherman Oaks, CA
- Reference Number:Seller: FD05391stDibs: LU1673123758582
About the Seller
5.0
Gold Seller
Premium sellers maintaining a 4.3+ rating and 24-hour response times
Established in 1987
1stDibs seller since 2019
242 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 3 hours
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Shipping from: Sherman Oaks, CA
- Return Policy
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