Items Similar to Vintage Maison Gripoix White, Crystal, Faux Turquoise Gold Necklace Circa 1990s
Video Loading
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 8
Vintage Maison Gripoix White, Crystal, Faux Turquoise Gold Necklace Circa 1990s
$4,825
£3,647.14
€4,183.42
CA$6,726.25
A$7,322.07
CHF 3,886.56
MX$88,100.26
NOK 49,247.97
SEK 45,125.06
DKK 31,241.55
About the Item
Vintage Maison Gripoix White, Crystal, and Faux Turquoise on Gold Chain Necklace. 3 Different Emblems On a Gold Chain with a Dangling White Piece in the Middle. 22"-24" L. Dangling Middle is 3" L. Each Piece is 2" by 2"
Guy de Maupassant wrote a famous story about a necklace. The story is about a young, pretty, intelligent, well-educated, but poorly endowed bride who has to marry a petty official; thus, suffering from the limitations of living a life with a husband who lacks any exquisite qualities. One day, to entertain his dejected spouse, her husband receives an invitation to a ball and gives his wife the 400 francs he had saved for a hunting rifle so that she can order an appropriate dress.
However, when the dress is ready, it becomes clear that it is lacking jewelry, and it would be impossible to attend the ball while looking so poor. The protagonist approaches her wealthy childhood friend, with whom she was raised at the monastery, and borrows a diamond necklace from her. The ball is a great success, and she is the centre of attention. However, when the woman returns home, she discovers that she has lost the necklace. To conceal her faux pas from her friend, she buys a new necklace identical to the one she lost. To pay it off, the woman gets into a massive debt, which, over the years, gradually drags her down the social ladder from the bourgeoisie to poverty. Ten years later, having lost her good looks, the woman encounters her friend on the Champs Élysées, who still looks young, beautiful, and rich. The protagonist reveals to her friend the entire story about the necklace, but her friend replies in amazement that the diamonds were fake and would “cost 500 francs at most.”
Maison Gripoix starts with a dramatic story. In 1869 (or a year earlier, according to other sources), Paris master glassmaker Augustina Gripoix began creating replicas of pearls and crystals, casting glass into various shapes and colors and setting them in the most sophisticated settings. She used the pâte de verre (glass paste) technique, whereby a traditional ceramic or gypsum form was filled with a multi-colour piece of glass and special gluing substances and then baked in a furnace, resulting in objects featuring fantastical hues. Only Augustina made her crystals by pouring the melted glass paste into the press moulds, skipping the furnace step, allowing her to achieve the purity of colour, transparency, and shine. She found a simple method to make beautiful jewelry. Thus, Marquises, Duchesses, and Princesses queued up ... so Madame Gripoix would make them replicas of their own jewelry in case of robbery or loss, or some unusual jewelry pieces for their new wraps, neckpieces, or boas. The so-called ‘costume jewelry’ emerged to a large extent thanks to the work of Maison Gripoix.
Augustina Gripoix earned her fame in the 1890s when she began creating necklaces for Sarah Bernhardt to wear on stage and later designed costume jewelry for the first high-fashion house of Charles Frederick Worth. Later, Paul Poiret, the leading couturier of 1910, contacted her, and she created sophisticated Oriental-style jewelry to match his famous Oriental costumes, based on the aesthetic of Diaghilev’s initial Russian seasons.
The value of costume jewelry was now being recognized in its own right and not just for imitation purposes. The taste of emancipated young girls, who were gaining more and more freedom and opportunities, was best met with bijouterie. So in the 1920s, when Augustina’s daughter Susan became the head of the House, Gripoix prospects became even more exciting—girls with short-cropped hair in short dresses zoomed by in open-top cars wearing bijou rather than diamonds. Everyone ordered bijouterie from Madam Gripoix during this period, from Jeanne Lanvin to Jean Piguet; however, the best relationship Gripoix had was with Gabrielle Chanel.
It is well-known that Chanel, a fan of large jewelry with large stones, made bijouterie super fashionable. Chanel brought copies of Byzantine jewelry to Susanne Gripoix. She asked her to create the pieces in that same style, requesting, “Let everyone think that this jewelry is not new, but found somewhere on an excavation site nearby Rue Camborne.” She was so satisfied with the result of her order that she remained a faithful client of Gripoix for several decades. This was how the famous Byzantine style of Chanel jewelry was brought to life, featuring golden Maltese crosses with large multicolored stones and matching bracelets, cabochons, and massive brooches, all of which have become a part of the Gripoix.
Chanel liked to combine both natural and imitation stones in a single item; for example, she would pair natural and imitation pearls in a single necklace. Gripoix made them in such a way that it was impossible to distinguish between them. Susanne Gripoix created unique, irregularly shaped glass pearls for Chanel, imitating the baroque style. They were enameled in her workshops with mother-of-pearl to obtain some of the soft shine characteristic of natural pearls.
.
As the leading supplier to the couturier houses in Paris, Gripoix worked with many designers, including Cristobal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain, and Christian Dior, as well as Yves Saint Laurent and, later, Christian Lacroix and Marc Jacobs. However, it was the cooperation with Chanel that was the most significant, both for Chanel and for Gripoix.
Today, Gripoix is no longer a family-owned company, but the House still crafts jewelry, although the style has undergone considerable changes over the last few years. The jewelry has become more straightforward, more graphical, and even minimalistic. In 2011, however, Gripoix and Catherine Baba, a well-known Paris stylist and the star of street-style blogs, released a joint collection in the style of Art Nouveau and neo-romanticism. Even today, Gripoix tries to preserve the traditional techniques of moulding and enameling. They use a special copper alloy supplied by the Art Metal Company, which is as old as Gripoix, and the formula for this alloy is kept secret. After it's melted, dragged and screwed in various ways, it is made into moulds that are welded using brass powder, a technique rarely found elsewhere today, before being gold-plated in the neighbouring workshop. Historical jewelry made by Gripoix, especially pieces created for Chanel, is an object of genuine cult value. They are collected, they are hunted down, they are sold at auction, and their prices have recently skyrocketed.
- Creator:
- Metal:
- Weight:185.8 g
- Dimensions:Height: 25 in (635 mm)Width: 2 in (50.8 mm)Depth: 2 in (50.8 mm)Diameter: 22 in (558.8 mm)Length: 25 in (635 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1995
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Very Good Condition.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:Seller: NG11-721stDibs: LU2565214995812
About the Seller
5.0
Recognized Seller
These prestigious sellers are industry leaders and represent the highest echelon for item quality and design.
Gold Seller
Premium sellers maintaining a 4.3+ rating and 24-hour response times
Established in 2014
1stDibs seller since 2022
256 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: <1 hour
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Shipping from: New York, NY
- Return Policy
More From This Seller
View AllVintage Gold Tone with Faux Pearls and Turquoise Choker Circa 1950s
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Gold Tone with Faux Pearls and Turquoise Choker Circa 1950s. This chic, small two-strand necklace is anchored with a small 3D flower in the front that features three layers. ...
Category
Vintage 1950s Japanese Modern Choker Necklaces
Materials
Mixed Metal
Vintage Poggi Paris Gold Tone with Large Crystals 3 Row Necklace, circa 1990s
By POGGI PARIS
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Poggi Paris Gold Tone With Large Crystals 3 Row Necklace Circa 1990s. This is truly gorgeous, if I do say so myself. There are three rows of crystals. They fit between 15"...
Category
1990s French Modern Link Necklaces
Materials
Mixed Metal
Vintage Gold Large Disc with Faux Turquoise Glass Beads Circa 1980s
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Gold Tone Large Disc with Faux Turquoise Glass Beads. It will look great on, as the colors go with many things. Acquired in Paris. The necklace's l...
Category
Vintage 1980s French Modern Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Mixed Metal
Vintage Blue And Clear Open Back Crystal Choker Necklace Circa 1960s
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Blue and Clear Open-Back Crystal Choker Necklace Circa 1960s. Most people don't understand the beauty of these until they try them on. The backing is a dark gold tone and is ...
Category
Vintage 1960s American Modern Link Necklaces
Materials
Mixed Metal
Vintage Maison Goossens Yves Saint Laurent Rock Crystal Choker Circa 1985
By Maison Goossens for Yves Saint Laurent
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Maison Goossens Yves Saint Laurent Rock Crystal Choker Circa 1985. This is a couture piece shown in the Spring 1985 couture show. I have never had a piece in the collection l...
Category
1990s French Artist Choker Necklaces
Materials
Mixed Metal
Vintage Faux Pearl and Faux Turquoise With Gold Beads Necklace Circa 1990s
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Faux Pearl and Faux Turquoise With Gold Beads Necklace Circa 1990s. This is a piece that looks very elegant. Don't get me wrong when I say that...It can also be worn with je...
Category
1990s American Modern Beaded Necklaces
Materials
Mixed Metal
You May Also Like
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s White Pearls Turquoise Cabochon Crystals Necklace
By Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s White Pearls Turquoise Blue Green Cabochon Sparkling Crystals Oval Round Pendant Elegant Necklace, Gold Plated
Very excellent condition. 100% Genuine. M...
Category
Vintage 1980s German Art Deco Pendant Necklaces
Materials
Gold Plate
Trifari White Pour Glass and Gold Floral Necklace
By Trifari
Located in New York, NY
Trifari wonderful white pour glass is combined with gold hardware as well as white glass beads. The length measures 13", with 2 3/4" chain to lengthen if desired. The width...
Category
Vintage 1960s American More Necklaces
1970s Vintage Trifari White Lucite and Trifanium Necklace
By Trifari
Located in Aci Castello, IT
A stylish necklace designed and manufactured in USA by Trifari, good conditions overall of white lucite and gilded metal
Category
Mid-20th Century American Neoclassical Chain Necklaces
Handcraft Turquoise 14 Karat Yellow Gold and Silver Diamonds Choker Necklace
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
The Scala Gioielli & Figli is pleased to announce to all its customers who purchase outside the European Community an additional 10% discount from the list price on all its items. Th...
Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Artisan Choker Necklaces
Materials
Diamond, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Limoges France White Enamel and Pate de Verre Link Necklace
Located in Atlanta, GA
An exquisite enamel and pate de verre link necklace designed in Limoges, France. The choker features enameled domed trapeze copper elements linked together with gilt metal framing to...
Category
Vintage 1960s French Retro Choker Necklaces
Materials
Copper, Enamel, Gilt Metal
Syna Yellow Gold Turquoise Necklace with Diamonds
By Syna Jewels
Located in Fort Lee, NJ
Created in 18 karat yellow gold
Turquoise 2 carats approx.
Diamonds 0.30 carat approx.
18 inch length, adjustable at 16-17
Lobster clasp
Limited edition
Crafted from 18 karat yellow...
Category
2010s American Contemporary Necklace Enhancers
Materials
Diamond, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
More Ways To Browse
Unusual Jewelry
Faux Turquoise
Modern Simple Diamond Necklace Designs
Yves Saint Laurent White Dress
Diamond And Pearl Cross Necklace
Chanel Baroque
Glass Necklace Yves Saint Laurent
Chanel Byzantine
Cristobal Balenciaga
Vintage Cristobal Balenciaga
Multi Chain Gold Necklace Chanel
Vintage Marc Jacobs
Yves Saint Laurent Stone Necklace
Diamond Cross White Gold Princess
Replica Jewelry
Charles Frederick Worth
Vintage Long Gold Chain With One Large Pearl
1920s Dress By Jeanne Lanvin