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Jugenstil Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Necklace by Heinrich Levinger

$1,400List Price

About the Item

Exquisite in both design and color, this marvelous Jugenstil (Art Nouveau) necklace was made in Pforzheim, Germany by Heinrich Levinger, who founded his business in 1878. Finely made of .900 silver (just under our US .925 sterling standard of silver) and gold gilding, the necklace features four curling leaves with luscious plique a jour enamel, accented with oblong freshwater pearls and the original elongated link chain and clasp. (Plique-a-jour is French for "letting in daylight" as this enamel is open backed, so you can see through the translucent enamels, much the way you would with stained glass. It's an extremely challenging and time consuming technique, and very beautiful.) The glowing quality of the green enamel is simply wonderful - it transitions from a yellowy-sap green to a rich leaf green, with all the enamel original and intact. With magnification I see a little wear and scratching, but no breaks or losses. One pearl stands upright at the center, between two curving leaves, and one dangles as a drop. These, too are original, with lovely luster; their color is a creamy silvery white, with some gold and pink undertones. On the back of the pearl drop there is some yellowing - I can't quite tell if its staining, some old adhesive, or something else. Otherwise, I see only light expected wear and a bit of old dirt. (I have not cleaned the piece, but have left it as found.) Clear hallmarks remain on the reverse of the pendant, including the stylized "HL" maker's mark, and a mark of "depose" (similar to a patent mark) and "900" for the silver content. Measuring approximately 1 and 5/16 x 1 and 5/16 of an inch (33.2 x 33.2 mm), the plique a jour and pearl pendant is still attached to the original silver chain. (there are tiny hallmarks to the jump ring attachments, some links of the chain, as well as the tongue of the clasp.) The elongated "paperclip" style chain is charming and in very good condition, with the box style clasp working well. I see only some light bends to a few links and the link attached to the tongue has an old soldered area. Currently a dainty 14.5 inch wearable length, it would fit some as a choker and be too small for others. The chain could be extended, and I think the most respectful way to do that with such a special piece would be to have a bench jeweler create a few matching links and add them to each side of the chain to your desired overall length – or – to not permanently alter the chain, one could use a commercially made chain extender. Overall, the necklace is in wonderful condition, with light wear. The silver has a warmth and mellowness to the color, with some old patina and gilding present, that I find very pleasing. I will leave it to the new owner to choose whether to leave the finish as it is, or to polish it up. On my scale the finished weight is 6.80 grams.

Creator:
Heinrich Levinger
Metal:
Silver
Weight:
6.8 g
Dimensions:
Length: 14.5 in (368.3 mm)
Style:
Jugendstil
Place of Origin:
Germany
Period:
Early 20th Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1900 to 1910
Condition:
Repaired: Some light bends to a few links of the chain and the link attached to the tongue has an old soldered area. Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Danvers, MA
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3614219575232

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