1970s Gilbert Albert 18 Karat Gold Pearl Diamond Shell Shape Cocktail Ring

When it came to creating elegant jewelry out of unusual materials, Gilbert Albert was a master alchemist. Not only was he the first known jeweler to set meteorite fragments in fine jewelry, but he also crafted works from more earthly components such as sea-urchin skeletons, shark teeth, peacock feathers and fulgurites, which he placed in tubes of glass made from sand that had been struck by lightning.

Born in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1930, Albert began training in jewelry design at the age of 15 while attending the city’s School of Industrial Arts. There, he became influenced by European abstract artists such as Piet Mondrian and Constantin Brâncusi. A decade later, luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe spotted Albert’s talents, and for the next seven years, he worked at the company as a designer, developing Patek’s signature asymmetrical timepieces. 

In 1962, Albert opened his first atelier and pioneered a method for incorporating unconventional natural materials into his jewelry. Driven by a lifelong love of nature, Albert combined petrified plants, furs, feathers, dinosaur fossils and beetle exoskeletons with traditional precious metals and gemstones to make curious rings, brooches, bracelets and watches. Among his most well-known pieces are his sculptural gold clip-on earrings, pendant necklaces and interchangeable cocktail rings with removable beads.

Throughout his career, Albert’s creations have been exhibited at shows and fairs in Prague, Paris, London, Milan, Copenhagen, Antwerp, Brussels, New York, Vienna, Salzburg, Tokyo, Osaka, São Paulo, Lisbon and Dubai. He was also the first living artist since 1917 invited to display work at the Kremlin, in Moscow. 

In addition to receiving numerous accolades for his jewelry designs — he won the Diamonds International Award 10 times — Albert has been recognized for his talents as an artist. In 1999, the Swiss government hired him to design the “Mass” of the Republic of Geneva. He also received the Ramsar Wetlands Conservation Award, and Geneva’s International Museum of the Reformation has one of his sculptures on permanent display. 

Even after Albert’s death, in 2019, his artisanal jewelry remains highly coveted among collectors.

On 1stDibs, discover a range of Gilbert Albert rings, necklaces and earrings.