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Silver Learned Man’s Signet Ring
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Extraordinary 18th-Century Steel, Gold
Silver Learned Man’s Signet Ring
$6,800
£5,135.82
€5,932.67
CA$9,580.23
A$10,260.43
CHF 5,515.94
MX$124,618.94
NOK 69,696.56
SEK 63,812.38
DKK 44,327.86
About the Item
A masterpiece of early European craftsmanship, this spectacular 18th-century mixed-metal signet ring represents the rarest category of men’s jewelry: a fully engraved learned man’s seal ring executed in steel with gold inlay and a full sterling-silver liner. Objects of this material complexity were produced in extremely limited numbers; surviving examples with this level of iconographic richness are almost never encountered outside major museum collections.
This magnificent artifact is signet ring unlike any other
The octagonal bezel is engraved with a constellation of symbolic imagery — the kind of dense intellectual vocabulary found on only the most important personal signets of the Enlightenment period. The central monogram, Gothic C H, is framed by an unfurled book, a quill, Mercury’s winged helmet, a caduceus, a long rifle, and a stylized tree. Each of these motifs historically conveys knowledge, communication, commerce, medicine, travel, and protection.
Why so many symbols? Because this was almost certainly created for a man of wide scholarly reach — someone whose identity required multiple heraldic and professional emblems unified in a single seal. In the 1700s, such rings were equivalent to personal passports of authority. Every engraved figure told part of the wearer’s intellectual, commercial, or social narrative. The more accomplished the man, the more elaborate the signet.
The shoulders continue that visual dialogue: crossed swords surmounting an owl (wisdom), a dagger, mining tools, an anchor, a laurel wreath, another caduceus, and Mercury’s helmet repeated — a symbolic résumé in miniature. It is astonishingly ambitious work.
The Allure of Berlin Iron
Steel Jewelry Traditions: The use of steel, subtly patinated with the unmistakable softness that only centuries—not chemistry—can impart, places this ring in the lineage of early European steel ornamentation. While the celebrated Berlin iron jewelry of the early 19th century is better known, its origins lie in earlier 18th-century experimentation with steel as a decorative material. These objects expressed patriotism, ingenuity, and modernity — steel was hard, enduring, and technically challenging to engrave.
This ring, with its gold inlay and sterling-silver interior liner, sits at the apex of that tradition.
The silver lining — hand-fitted, not modern — may have been added for comfort by the original owner or a highly skilled early jeweler. Lined signet rings of this era are exceedingly scarce; most were worn to destruction.
This example survives with remarkable integrity and the tactile smoothness of true age.
Why Signet Rings Have Become the Most Sought-After Jewels on 1stDibs
Historic signet rings are among the hardest pieces to acquire. Prices frequently begin at $6,000 and climb sharply for pieces with any combination of mixed metals, gold inlay, original heraldic imagery, or intellectual symbolism. Most remain in family estates and never enter the market.
This ring — with its materials, its elaborate iconography, and its 18th-century origin — is rarer than almost all signets currently on offer. It has the powerful presence of a personal relic and the aesthetic charisma of a miniature engraving.
Condition
Superb for its age.
The surface shows a beautifully even, natural patina consistent with 300 years of gentle handling, not artificial toning. In person, the effect is extraordinary: matte steel softened by time, gold details glowing warmly in contrast, and the silver interior smooth against the finger.
10 ¾ (can be worn as-is or fitted with an inner sizing band by an experienced jeweler).
Provenance
Acquired through a highly respected international dealer renowned for early European jewelry. The authenticity and historical integrity of the piece are consistent with their reputation for excellence.
About the Seller
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