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French 1800 Art Nouveau Rose Diamond Zig Zag Enamel Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch

$5,000List Price

About the Item

An Impressive Art Nouveau French 1880s Gold “Sun Ray” Motif Hand Cut Rose Cut Diamond Set “Zig Zag” Guilloche Enamel Hand Painted Enamel Breguet Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch Basic Dimensions Specifications -35mm Length mm (from top of Bow to bottom of case) - 30mm wide across - Recently Serviced Perfect Working Condition Additional Special Features - Hand Painted Breguet Enamel Dial Case designed with Iconic Sun Ray “Zig Zag” Guilloche Enamel Motif matching but also with a Rose cut gem set diamond at center with Sun Ray Enamel Radiating outward -Hand Cut Gold Fancy Style Art Nouveau Period Style Hour Minute Hands -Hand Cut Gold Outer Minute Markers -French Made -Excellent Original Condition with no Enamel loss to Dial or Case -High Grade Nickel movement Catalog Note The present timepiece is a an extremely well-preserved example of one of the most iconic art forms of enameling in the 19th designs and executes beautifully the art of enameling in the mid 1800s in one of the most difficult colors to produce vibrant enamel in : Vibrant reds and in zig zag pattern. However, unlike other many other examples, the present example stands out as it is also gem set with a hand cut rose cut diamond also only found in this period at the center and a sunray enameling around the circumference of the stone with the zig zag radiating outwards in a noticeably unique and vibrant pattern. During this timeframe due to limited technology, the art of enameling was first introduced and became one of the most sought after works of art as it was extremely difficult to commission such pieces as the present example is designed with. During the 1800s there were many different efforts to execute various forms of enameling from cloisonné to engine turned guilloche as well as the acclaimed “zig zag” motif. Each required the master watchmaker to be or work with a master enameller as well because not only did the timepiece movement need to become smaller to fit into a smaller case design concept, but it also required extremely intense heat to be applied as a means to obtain higher color hues which red in particular required such as the present example demonstrates. First the watchmaker would have to engineer a smaller and thinner movement which could keep time but once completed, the case also required immense attention to detail in order to produce such vibrant hues of reds. Additionally, in order to produce the present case, the watchmaker also required a master goldsmith as well in order to carve out the areas on the case so that the enamel can be applied. By performing such tasks, it would create the depths in the gold which were needed that once the enamel dried it would create the zig zag pattern present on the example offered here today. Once enamel dries, the effect created a case coloring that makes the enamel completely reactive to sunlight so that as its user alters positions in regular day light the case shines translucently in all different hues of the red enameling which apply which is why enamel pendant watches specifically in this period are so sought after. The innovation elements were extremely difficult requiring even up to 3 or 4 different master watchmakers, enamellers, goldsmiths to be able to commission a piece such as the present example. Finally, in addition to the beautiful zig zag design concept present on the example here, the example continues to stand out as a premier example of this time frame over other examples of enamel watches of this kind because it is also designed with a hand cut rose cut diamond at the center which suggests that it was also very likely for an important client as more common examples of this period were not gem set since they required additional planning, time and cost for the stones than the more commonly found simply enameled examples which were produced 9kt when mass produced, and further more with additional special attention to details on the present examples’ numbering system and dial which was also entirely hand painted and with handmade gold fancy hour and minute hands and outer minute marker baton numbering system. (typically the most desirable numbering system collectors seek out as it is considered more valuable because more artistic and iconically recognizable since it required more time to hand paint an enamel dial then implement a metallic dial) and further accented with “fancy” hand cut gold hands to reveal the minute and hours with. During this timeframe into the late and mid 1800s, the French govt in particular would commission enamel works of art such as the present example especially to give as gifts to foreign dignitaries as well as the royal court. The present example is serial numbered and hallmarked and also has an extremely high-grade movement in perfect working condition. Additionally, notable it can be worn in many different styles whether dress or casual on a long chain as a pendant on a necklace or as a brooch with a pin that attaches it to a jacket lapel. For any additional questions, please do not hesitate to ask or video

Metal:
Yellow Gold,Enamel
Stone:
Diamond,Ruby
Stone Cut:
Rose Cut
Dimensions:
Height: 1.38 in (35 mm)Width: 1.19 in (30 mm)
Style:
Art Nouveau
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
Mid-19th Century
Date of Manufacture:
1880s
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU1212313916872