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French 1800s Art Nouveau 18kt Zig Zag Enamel Breguet Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch

Price:$5,000

About the Item

An Impressive French 1880s Double Sided Red “Zig Zag” Guilloche Enamel Breguet Numeral Dial Case Art Nouveau Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch Basic Specifications Case Dimensions - 35mm Length mm (from top of Bow to bottom of case) - 30mm wide across - Recently Serviced Perfect Working Condition Special Features include: -Double Enamel Dial Case designed with Iconic “Zig Zag” Guilloche Enamel Motif matching Radiating From center -18kt Hand Cut Breguet Numbering System 18kt Baton Minute Markers -18kt Hand Cut Fancy Style Art Nouveau Period Style Hour Minute Hands -French Made -Excellent Original Condition with no Enamel loss to Dial or Case -High Grade Nickel movement Catalog Note The present timepiece is a an extremely well-preserved example of one of the most iconic art forms of enameling in the 19th designs and executes beautifully the art of enameling in the mid 1800s in one of the most difficult colors to produce vibrant enamel in and zig zag pattern. During this timeframe due to limited technology, the art of enameling was first introduced and became one of the most sought after works of art as it was extremely difficult to commission such pieces. During the 1800s there were many different efforts to execute various forms of enameling from cloisonné to engine turned guilloche as well as the acclaimed “zig zag” motif. Each required the master watchmaker to be a master enameller as well because not only did the timepiece movement need to become smaller to fit into a smaller case design concept, but it also required extremely intense heat to be applied as a means to obtain higher color hues such as the present example demonstrates. First the watchmaker would have to engineer a smaller and thinner movement which could keep time but once completed the case required immense attention to detail in order to produce such vibrant hues of reds. Additionally, in order to produce the present case, the watchmaker also required a master goldsmith as well in order to carve out the areas on the case so that the enamel can be applied. By performing such tasks, it would create the depths needed that once the enamel dried it would create the zig zag pattern present on the example offered here today. Once enamel dries, the effect creates a case coloring that makes the enamel completely reactive to sunlight so that as its user alters positions in regular day light the case shines translucently in all different hues of the red enameling which apply which is why enamel pendant watches specifically in this period are so sought after. The innovation elements were extremely difficult requiring even up to 3 or 4 different master watchmakers, enamellers, goldsmiths to be able to commission a piece such as the present example. Finally, in addition to the beautiful zig zag design concept present on the example here, the example continues to stand out as a premier example of this time frame over other examples of enamel watches of this kind because it is not only designed in 18kt yellow gold which suggests that it was also very likely for an important client as more common examples of this period were commonly found in 14kt or 9kt when mass produced, but also because the design concept continues to be specially designed with a matching “zig zag” motif enamel guilloche pattern on the dial to match the outside case back which also had to be created specially and matched by the watchmaker and further more with additional the special attention to details on the present examples’ numbering system which is also designed entirely with hand cut gold numerals in Breguet numbering system style (typically the most desirable numbering system collectors seek out as it is considered more valuable because more artistic and iconically recognizable ) and further accented with “fancy” hand cut 18kt gold hands to reveal the minute and hours with. During this timeframe into the late and mid 1800s, the French govt in particular would commission enamel works of art such as the present example especially to give as gifts to foreign dignitaries as well as the royal court. The present example is serial numbered and hallmarked and also has an extremely high-grade movement in perfect working condition. Additionally, notable it can be worn in many different styles whether dress or casual on a long chain as a pendant on a necklace or as a brooch with a pin that attaches it to a jacket lapel. For any additional questions, please do not hesitate to ask or video

Case Material:
18k Gold,Yellow Gold,Enamel
Stone:
Ruby
Stone Cut:
Round Cut
Case Dimensions:
Height: 1.38 in (35 mm)Diameter: 1.19 in (30 mm)
Style:
Art Nouveau
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
Mid-19th Century
Date of Manufacture:
1800s
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU1212313594502

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