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1930 s Gruen Rose Gold Filled Curvex, Stunning "Curvature." 17 Jewels

Name: 1930' s Gruen Rose Gold Filled Curvex, Stunning "Curvature." 17 Jewels
Brand: Gruen
Rating: 5 (3 reviews)

Price:$1,321

About the Item

I have another treasure for your consideration. It is one of the first Gruen Curvex models introduced in the mid 1930’s. Let me introduce you ti the Gruen Curvex, look at the sublime curvature that hugs the wrist. Technical Note: Notes Gruen states that the 440 Curvex uses the same parts as the 430 except for Ratchet Wheel, however that's a gross summary. Closer examination shows these differences The ratchet wheel's text (mechanically they are the same) The pillar plate has differing caliber stamps The pillar plate on the 440 is "curved" The ratchet bridge with the serial number The train bridge has different text and design but mechanically the same Let me share a little history of the sublime watch offering. Keep in mind that it is 85 years young. This watch is in extraordinary condition, something that Vintage Watch Corner is developing a reputation. Early American vintage watches in exception condition. For every model you see in my store, I pass up 5-8 examples due to their condition, or lack of originality, or sloppy restorations. The case is sublime, it’s curved lugs hugs the wrist like a glove, it is comfortable and quite frankly elegant on. The case is in near perfect condition, a rarity considering all the high points and shard edge that are prevalent to wear. Up close with a loupe you can see some case wear. This is a fabulous example. The case width is : 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock without crown 19.80MM From Lug to Lug Length ways: A vert long 44.50 MM The is a 16MM brown alligator with a gold tone buckle The movement is a Curvex 440, one of the earliest Curvex movements, 17 jewels and look at the movement, it is beautifully clean. I do not know when it was service last but it runs fabulous now. Use your pictures as part of your condition description. Carefully review my reviews, know who you are buying from. The Ace was first advertised May 1st, 1936 (although with a wrong picture of a model later sold as the Curvex Duke!). This was the second model pictured in advertisements. I think the advertisement dates indicate that the Curvex Ace was indeed the second model introduced. I should probably check if "THE" Curvex got a name later... It should definitely be correct to state that this is a very early Curvex model, name it first generation. The most famous Gruen wristwatch was the Curvex. These watches are one of the greatest examples of 1930s streamlined design. The patent for the movement was applied for (in both Switzerland and the U.S.) in 1929. U.S. patent 1,855,952 was granted on April 26, 1932 to Emile Frey of Bienne, Switzerland, but assigned to the Gruen Watch Company. It was later reissued as Re. 20,480 under Gruen President Benjamin Katz's name in 1937, after Frey's death. The first watches went on sale in 1935. During the mid-1930s, the fashion was for longer and more curved rectangular watches for men. However, the thinness and curve of the case was limited by the need to put a flat movement inside. As the case got thinner and more curved, the only conventional option was to use a smaller and smaller movement. By a clever internal arrangement of the wheels and bridges, Gruen solved this problem by building a curved movement—this allowed them to put a bigger and more reliable movement into a thinner and more curved case than their competitors could. Since the design was patented, these curved movements were exclusive to Gruen. The Curvex was very successful and was soon followed by women's models. There were four men's Curvex movements. The original 1935 model was the long, thin calibre 311. This was soon replaced by the more curved 330 (1937), also long and thin. As fashions changed, later Curvex models used the short, squarish-oval 440 (1940) and the short and wide 370 (1948). Watches with the 330 were called Custom Curved and 370 models were called Curvametric in Gruen advertising, although the dials are all marked simply Curvex and Precision. Any man's watch that does not contain one of these four movements is not a Curvex, no matter what is on the dial or how persuasive a seller might be. Dials can be redone or swapped with another watch; it's the movement inside that counts. Having said this, many collectors have an obsession with the Curvex and ignore many of the other interesting models. Gruen was responsible for some of the most creative watch styling of the 1930s, and produced many other unusual and elegant designs during this period.

Creator:
Gruen
Case Material:
Gold-filled
Strap Material:
Leather
Movement:
Case Dimensions:
Width: 0.79 in (20 mm)Diameter: 1.74 in (44 mm)
Style:
Art Deco
Place of Origin:
Switzerland
Period:
1930-1939
Date of Manufacture:
1930’s
Condition:
Repaired: New Crystal Comprehensive service New band Case Gently hand polished Dial professionally refinished. Wear consistent with age and use. New Crystal Comprehensive service New band Case Gently hand polished Dial professionally refinished.
Seller Location:
Raleigh, NC
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3149220718662

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