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1960s Gubelin 18 Karat Yellow Gold Double-Row Diamond Ruby Set Bracelet Watch

Name: 1960s Gubelin 18 Karat Yellow Gold Double-Row Diamond & Ruby Set Bracelet Watch
Brand: Gubelin
Rating: 5 (6 reviews)

$8,500List Price

About the Item

A 1960s Gubelin 18kt Yellow Gold Premier Double Row Diamond Ruby Set Bracelet Watch Basic Specifications Case Dimensions Case Dimensions - 20 mm x 20mm - Fits up to a 190mm wrist size *Can be resized as necessary extended or shortened as a complimentary service with purchase - Mechanical Movement in perfect working condition - 24 Brilliant White Round Cut Diamonds 20 Ruby Totaling Approximately 5.5 Carats - Perfect Working Condition recently serviced Special Features - Special Attention to Mesh Bracelet Concept which is designed to appear to look like that of a traditional pant belt where with part of strap going through a belt buckle and then locking into its necessary measurement on the wrist. Also, allowing for multiple adjustments in terms of sizing as well which is very unique period design concept as so many designers were enamored by the concept of the belt and zippers during this timeframe and wanted to apply it to jewelry design as well. Catalog Note By the 1950s and 1960s, Gubelin had become one of the most respected company institutions of its kind, world renown for their colored stone certification with the Gubelin Lucerne Gem labs specifically and also acting simultaneously as one of the most premier retailers in the world carrying in stock some of the highest quality timepieces and jewels they could purvey for their elite international clientele to purchase as well. During the timeframe of the creation of the present timepiece, commercial travel had just became available to the public and a new demand for new timepiece designs in emerged where the concept should not only be functional timekeeping device, but moreover stylish and chiq to be wearable more so as a luxurious high fashion bracelet accessory. As a result, design concepts such as the present example were specially designed to be worn more so as a high fashion ruby and diamond bracelet accessory than that of just a conventional timepiece which prior to this new concept was purely focused on a watches ability to check the time most accurately. As one of the worlds renown authority for colored stone gemology it is no surprise the present timepiece is a Gubelin design as Gubelins’ founder Eduard is accredited for establishing gemology as a science and is considered the 20th centuries most important and most influential Gemologist. The present timepiece is a premier example of a gemset timepiece as it has a double gem set bezel and rather designed with one gemstone type entirely it is designed with 24 brilliant white diamonds on the outer row and 20 mystery set ruby all carefully matched on the inner row further exemplifying two different gem setting techniques and demonstrating a clear comparison between the difference one can appreciate as they look at the beautiful fissures and inclusions colored stones such as the ruby have which was the utmost factor that Eduard Gubelin drew so much attention to as fathered gemology as a science. Gubelin recognized colored gemstones differ from diamonds because by looking beneath the surface of the stone a scientist can discover hidden worlds of colors and shapes, of fantastic vistas and breathtaking patterns. He placed great emphasis on the importance of the inclusions, microscopic fissures, bubbles and striations that arise at the stone's crystal grows in the depths of the earth. The growth of a crystal is controlled by the geological setting in which the mineral formed, the pressure and temperature conditions and the specific chemical environment prevailing at that time. Before Gubelin, these were considered blemishes and the attributes Gubelin Lucerne lab focused on had no barring on the quality of a gem. In addition to the beautiful contrast of ruby and diamond found on the double gem set bezel, the hands are also hand painted with enamel black at the ends and the dial is also in near perfect condition with baton markers. The bracelet concept also mentioned above has had special attention to allow for adjustable sizes to be worn and draws from the inspiration of a belt in the fashion world to be styled as a strap locking mechanism on the present wristwatch, a surely unique attribute most timepieces in general did not have. Today Gubelin no longer produces timepieces although starting as timepiece workshop making the present example rare find as so few gem set timepieces were ever put into production entirely produced by the firm just before they focused solely on the science of gemology. In addition, the movement is in perfect working condition and has been recently serviced For additional photos, video or questions, please do not hesitate to ask If unfamiliar with Gubelin, please find additional details below: Today, With three gem labs, two gem school academies and ten boutiques, the House of Gubelin is still the leading and foremost authoritative resource on colored gemstones and although they never decided to produce timepieces again, they still today purvey some of the finest examples for which they seek to offer their elite clients within their boutiques. As a result, the Gubelin Gem Labs have grown to become one of the most respected institutions of its kind in the world. A completely independent subsidiary of the Gubelin Group, the Gubelin Gem lab uses the latest science and state of the art equipment to carry out its analyses. On the basis of this it issues its highly respected gemological reports which are relied upon by famous auction houses, royal families, jewelers, gem traders and collectors globally who are looking for unbiased, independent and absolutely trustworthy opinions about their gems with a level of understanding, sophistication and depth that only Eduard Gubelin could have established. As a small family owned watch shop that started in 1855, the knowledge of watchmaking was naturally passed down and in the 1920s and Gubelin would shift their workshops focus to also ladies watches like many of the other competing watch making shops. In order to do so however, gemstones would need to be incorporated and Eduard Gubelin recognized the challenge of buying the high quality, authentic stones for his creations. Unlike others at this time, he wanted to be able to test the authenticity of the stones before he used them in order to ensure the quality he was providing his clients was nature's best and maintain their client's trust in Gubelin. As a means to do so, Eduard Gubelin expanded his father's small watch shop to have a small in-house gem lab in 1923, named the Gubelin Lucerne Gem Lab. The concept to check stones interiors was a revolutionary idea since there was no formal science associated with gemology nor instruments or technology to do so. Due to the immediate and immense success of the Gubelin Lucerne Geb lab, Eduard would shift focus again, this time away from gemstone timepieces and set their sites on the gemstones themselves, no longer producing ladies watches. Instead Eduard Gubelin would go on to establish one of the most respected gemological laboratories in the world and act as the most trusted authority over any other for his and the lab's ability to provide highly trusted analyses and gemological reports on colored stones. Eduard Gubelin is accredited for establishing gemology as a science and is considered the 20th centuries most important and most influential Gemologist.His ability to pioneer the gemological field revolutionized science as the contemporary world understood it. By examining the interior of the gemstones, Gubelin would seek to unlock its' mystery and became known as the father of origin determination in which case his laboratory developed a method to determine where the colored gemstones came from and also how to successfully match stones for designers to use in their creations based on classifications. He developed methods for characterization and types of classifications based on the formulation of the gemstone which was apparent in physical qualities. Gubelin developed micro-photoscopic techniques of examining stones and became the world's master gemologist. Naturally Gubelin is said to also have had the worlds most important gemstone collection which still acts as a resource today with over 25,000 stones from every commercially relevant mine in the world. For him the case design was built around the gemstone he was going to incorporate and greater challenge was finding matching stones according to his classification standards to be used within one piece. He showed that the inclusions if properly understood could reveal where a stone came from and crucially if it had been treated by human hand. Gubelin pioneered the concept of inclusion studies, a field which changed modern gemology completely. Gubelin recognized gemstones differ from diamonds because by looking beneath the surface of the stone a scientist can discover hidden worlds of colors and shapes, of fantastic vistas and breathtaking patterns. He placed great emphasis on the importance of the inclusions, microscopic fissures, bubbles and striations that arise at the stone's crystal grows in the depths of the earth. The growth of the a crystal is controlled by the geological setting in which the mineral formed, the pressure and temperature conditions and the specific chemical environment prevailing at that time. Before Gubelin, these were considered blemishes and the attributes Gubelin Lucerne lab focused on had no baring on the quality of a gem.

Creator:
Gubelin
Metal:
18k Gold,Yellow Gold
Stone:
Diamond,Ruby
Stone Cut:
Princess Cut
Dimensions:
Height: 0.79 in (20 mm)Width: 0.79 in (20 mm)Length: 7.49 in (190 mm)
Style:
Retro
Lab Report Available:
Gubelin
Place of Origin:
Switzerland
Period:
1960-1969
Date of Manufacture:
1960-1970s
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU1212310325212