Hermès Crossbody Bags and Messenger Bags

Hermès originated as a leather goods shop in Paris in 1837. Today, after expanding upon its expert stitching techniques to create handbags, luggage and travel bags, briefcases, crossbody bags and other accessories, it's considered one of the most luxurious fashion and lifestyle brands in the world. And vintage Hermès handbags and purses are catnip to collectors — a Birkin bag, for example, might be on many fashion lovers' wish lists, but to the hardcore collector, one is never enough. 

The Kelly and the Birkin are the most famous of all Hermès bags, and they are considered luxury investments. Though these bags are typically priced at up to $10,000, exclusive and rare bags can get up to the hundreds of thousands.

The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.

In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, founder Thierry Hermès’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. 

Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted Kelly's handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan. There are two types of Kelly bags, Sellier and Retourne. Formal and elegant, the Sellier was Grace Kelly’s preferred style. Retourne Kellys tend to be more casual. 

In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. 

Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment, and the leathers used to make these bags are among the finest in the world. And just as color matters when you’re contemplating an investment in a Birkin — new and seasonal colors are often in great demand — texture and durability matter, too.

There are different types of Hermès crocodile Birkin bags, such as Porosus crocodile Birkins and Niloticus crocodile Birkins, that speak to these attributes. The Birkin Himalayan, which is made in extremely limited qualities, has sold for record-breaking amounts of money.

Jean Paul Gaultier Birkins are unsurprisingly sought-after, and his So Black Birkin — which featured black PVD-coated hardware — is among the most cherished pieces the provocative French designer created for the brand in his role as creative director at Hermès.

While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne, a slew of designs on the vintage market that date back to the 1920s, and the Constance bag.

A favorite of First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, the Hermès Constance bag pairs comfort and refinement. While the distinctive accessory isn't one of the luxury house's much-publicized top-handle bags or totes — the Constance can instead be casually worn across the body or over the shoulder — it's a widely loved bag most noted for the “H” clasp that secures the bag’s top flap.

Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès shoulder bags, purses, clutches, suitcases and more on 1stDibs.