Berkshires - Clothing

Unlike anything else from the 1990s, Comme des Garcons founder Rei Kawakubo (b. 1942) designed in 1999 for her Spring/Summer 2000 collection this pink-overdyed pullover soft stretch-...

Velvet is in! This black velvet 1950s princess-style coat is in great condition and features a small collar and seven black buttons down the front. The nipped waist and flare skirt s...

Appearing in several versions on the Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2003 collection runway with silk oversized long bell sleeves (see our photos of the gold and white versions beginn...

Belgium former fashion designer Martin Margiela for his eponymous Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2007 collection in a minimalist style debuted this cherry-red crepe...

1980s royal blue coat and dress with charcoal beading in geometric patterns and hearts. The open coat reveals a V-neck, 3/4 sleeve dress underneath...

Around 1970 when Bill Blass introduced his eponymous brand after becoming a leading couture fashion designer among New York City society, he created this sleek tuxedo-like ecru-satin...

Quintessential Geoffrey Beene in cut and detail, this stunning and sophisticated gown is composed of olive green satin with black wool crepe panels strategically integrated into the ...

When Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela debuted gold-Lurex knits while French luxury-goods Hermes Womenswear Artistic Director, simultaneously in Fall 1999, he introduced at his eponymous Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela a collection featuring 1970s-inspired Lurex-accented sweaters, along with oversized loose clothes intended for either women or men. Including a distinct black-printed white-folded tag stitched into a seam by Italian experimental knitter Miss Deanna, who created many memorable knits under Margiela's artistic direction, this Margiela sparkly finely-knit viscose-and-Lurex-blend long-sleeve pullover is a minimalist unisex design with narrow ribbed trim at the crewneck, wrists and hem. Its "Made In Italy" size 44 with a 15.5-inch shoulderline is without darts and drapes like a one-size-fits-most stretch T-shirt. The lightweight sweater was knit from pale-gold, grey and blue yarns into an ombre pattern like a dip-dye technique associated with fabric. Yet the additional glittery orange-tone metallic thread (difficult to photograph due to reflections) interspersed throughout was clearly not dyed or printed. Conversely, Margiela's Fall 1999 Artisanale Line 0 collection that was produced instead by his Parisian team explored the textural effects of hand-painting fabrics, such as the unisex T-shirts that were striped or obscured with thick silver paint. Earlier in the 1990s, Margiela had reproduced some vintage...

As a variation of the traditional waiter-style apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for Spring/Summer 1989, this minimalist convertible transparent black chiffon rectangular garment was part of his Spring 1994 collection. The iconic corner-stitched textural white-cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text referencing an earlier Fall 1990 collection. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive-fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies it as one of his favorites that he reproduced from his first 10 fashion shows. This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war. Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that make our re-edition unique from the 1990 apron and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective in Spring 1999 following 10 more collections. Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. The first Margiela apron...

Oscar de la Renta (1932-2014) for his Spring 1982 collection created a number of styles of bold vibrant uniquely-handpainted crepe-de-chine caftans that helped define his five-decade...

While John Galliano was also creating his early Christian Dior haute-couture fashion collections as its acclaimed creative director, for Fall/Winter 1999 ready-to-wear for his ongoing eponymous Paris-based fashion house, the Brit designed this teal-green woven-wool day-to-evening dress with a luxurious bias-cut satin silk underlay and couture-like finishing. Evidenced by this dress, at that time Galliano was championed by the editors of U.S. Vogue as the leader of the sleek ultra-feminine trend. The influential magazine had earlier helped to establish him in Paris with a U.S. financial backer for an independent atelier and in America among high-end retailers--from where this dress was purchased by the sole owner, but never worn. Although its streamlined elegance that creates a striking silhouette has the look of a conservative linear dress...

An original c.1970s Bonnie Cashin all-weather coat in red poplin, lined in charcoal wool, and with attached charcoal wool scarf. The coat features Cashin's signature toggle closures ...

This unusual mid-century black mini dress features a fully-ruched top and a semi-transparent organza-and-net skirt that conjures a historic pinup-girl like Bettie Page. Rather than l...

Ronald Amey was a masterful designer, from concept to execution, and, although a bit under the radar, his clothes are much sought after by connoisseurs. He used exquisite and interes...

French-born Nicholas Ghesqueire, lauded in the 2000s for his innovative couture-like construction with atypical ready-to-wear luxurious fabrics tailored to perfection, designed for h...

Rei Kawakubo designed this translucent salmon-pink bias-cut satin sleeveless maxi dress evening gown for her brand Comme des Garcons, which debuted on a model at Paris Fall Fashion Week as "Look 12" among the Vogue photo-coverage of her Spring/Summer 2000 collection (see our last photo of the ensemble). The unusual V-neck shape creates a deep central drape in the front of the unlined dress that prevents the synthetic semi-transparent fabric from clinging to the torso. To continue to flatter the curvy shape of the lower body like the bias-cut enables, such as while walking, Kawakubo added an additional piece of fabric with a circling angular seam that rises from the wider hem. With the exception of the brand tag, all others were cut off by the sole owner to eliminate bulk and visibility through the dress. If the buyer would prefer, the fabric can be made shinier and completely smooth with professional pressing. If the buyer would like to create a layered ensemble with this gown as seen on the runway, we have other textural colorful tops to choose from with over-dyed unique appliques from this same Spring/Summer 2000 collection. However, we think our backless-mannequin photos show that this minimal dress...

The Italian duo Dolce & Gabbana for their Fall/Winter 1995 runway show featured black lace ensembles that included this trio of merino-wool knit turtleneck with asymmetrical vertical...

Immaculate styling is the hallmark of this 1950s suit fashioned of a fine brown and white tweed wool. The long blazer-style jacket features a notched shawl collar cut diagonally at b...

Azzedine Alaia designed this French black leather skirt and T-shirt ensemble in the early 1990s. It includes a very soft lambskin high-waisted derriere-enhancing pencil mini skirt an...

Lavishly sequined vintage cardigan in lavender accented with beaded florets. Hook-and-eye closures in front. Silk lined. An excellent example of the decorated sweaters popular during...

This couture lace transparent red-and-black floral-pattern silk sleeveless evening midi dress, with an eyelash-trimmed Chantilly lace boatneck and hem, is constructed with torso tuck...

With the finest fabric and tailoring--the base expectation for all progressive minimalist luxurious fashions designed for powerful women by German Jil Sander before the Prada-buyout ...

In the 1990s, French Thierry Mugler (1948-2022) designed this haute-couture labeled and numbered corset-style topstitched zigzag-panel ecru 100%-cotton-denim cocktail dress, which is...

For a formal special event, this 1980s maxi dress sleeveless gown by American designer Victor Costa features glamorous glossy red satin that is gathered, ruched and topstitched in bo...

Azzedine Alaia (1935-2017) designed this knit pullover chemise-style sleeveless lavender violet viscose dress that features bias panels in back defined by his signature curvilinear s...

Ungaro sleeveless blouse in lightweight waffle-patterned silk, c.late 1980s-early 1990s. The shirt features gold monogrammed buttons on a placket that runs from the pointed collar to...

In 1999, Rei Kawakubo (b. 1942) focused on unprecedented sculptural texture and irregular color blocking to design her Comme des Garcons Spring/Summer 2000 collection, which was domi...

Over 20 years ago, the late Roberto Cavalli who recently died in 2024 designed this silk-and-cotton top-and-jeans set showcasing his signature mix of animal prints with luxurious emb...

Black faux astrakhan coat that features a detachable cape. The fitted, princess-style body is single breasted and fastens with 8 black stone and silver...

1960s shift in orange woven wool reversible to beige. Trimmed in orange leather with one pocket. Buttons all the way down the back. Welted seams.

This antique Native American quilled brown chamois suede leather sleeveless chemise dress, which was handmade during the "reservation era" between 1870-1930, is made from two soft su...

Black wool/cashmere blend easy jacket featuring a large and plush brown fox shawl collar. Raglan, above-the-wrist sleeves, no buttons, , hidden pockets in si...

This timeless quintessential corseted, shirred, ruched and topstitched "little black dress" produced by Victor Costa in the 1980s was made for the high standards of New York's trendsetting Bergdorf Goodman. It was the first U.S. luxury department store to order exclusive special-occasion dresses from this Texas designer and subsequently to give him a namesake in-store boutique. He soon became associated with the feminine glamorous gowns worn by "PYT" (Costa-speak for pretty young things) on the Dallas-based television-series "Dynasty", which idealized status-conscious Texan women mostly via fashion. With a strapless curvaceous sweetheart neckline, narrow sinuous folds of crepe silk-blend jersey cross diagonally below the decollete, while contrasting vertical ruching defines the seven bones of the invisible corset structure that is fully lined on the interior. Under the bust in front below the empire-like peaked high waist, the fitted tucked underlay of the cocktail dress wraps around the back to end as an overlay in front, where the opening on the left side extends to the bodice like a discreet slit. The freely hanging bias-cut overlay in front is gathered underneath each breast for a forgiving central drape that adds additional curves to make the wearer's torso underneath appear in sleek condition despite a potentially less than ideal figure. The dress closes with a concealed zipper in the center of the back, with exterior hook-and-eye fastening to narrow the waist. There is a second concealed hook-and-eye fastener at the top of the zipper. Although the only remaining tag is the Costa/Bergdorf label, it is a contemporary U.S.-size 8, which will also suit a large-busted size 6 or a svelte size 10. Now 88 years old, Victor Costa (b.1935) became widely known by the 1980s in The States for perfecting affordable luxurious gowns that could be mistaken for one-of-a-kind flamboyant designs by foreign couturiers Christian Lacroix, Arnold Scaasi, Oscar de la Renta or Valentino Garavani. Early on, the avid female sketcher...

In his classic long flared silhouette, Japanese Yohji Yamamoto skillfully designed with bias-cut draping both this navy ribbon-trimmed notched-lapel single-breasted lined jacket and ...

Count Romi specialized in all-weather coats, as well as those suitable for travel. This example, from the early 1970s, is crafted of bright red wool knit and features double-breasted...

100% camelhair double-breasted coat featuring an oversized fit, notched collar, raglan sleeves with turned back cuffs, and diagonal pockets. Topstitchi...

Beautifully crafted Bill Blass two-layer dress, the main body a strapless sheath of repeating ribbon stripes in aqua, mint, beige and gray. Skimming over this is a sheer net sleevele...

1997 arguably marked the pinnacle of Japanese Comme des Garcons founder and fashion designer Rei Kawakubo's collection debuts when she introduced deconstructed asymmetrical "lumps and bumps" padding and transparent tops that both deformed and revealed female bodies. For her Fall/Winter 1997 "Adult Punk" collection, she debuted this transparent ecru organza pullover dinner jacket or evening oversized blouse, whose bodice and lower long sleeves are color-blocked with white textured silk-blend appliques and lined in white tulle that is hand-sheered above the outer hem. A recent Parisian exhibition at Musee de la Mode, "1997 Fashion...

Lilli Ann white polyester coat with wide spread collar and cuffs faced in black and white stripes. Slanted, integral pockets, back belt, and black and white buttons complete the look...

Brown wool coat from the 1960s, its distinguishing feature the mottled brown/gray Persian lamb border that forms its stand-up collar, front edge, and curved knee-length hemline in fr...

1970s dress and coat ensemble in navy wool knit by Sonia Rykiel. The slim coat features a top-stitched yolk detail, a round neckline, and single-breasted clo...

1960s navy suede suit in the style of a classic Chanel, it features a red and gold zigzag braid around the edges of the jacket and the top of the bodice poc...

While at Paris-based Balenciaga in late 2007, Nicolas Ghesquiere designed this 100%-silk bias-cut paneled dress that explodes with a grey and pale-yellow flower print and features un...

Premonville and Dewavrin slim and lightweight, long black coat featuring a mandarin collar and slit-panel skirt starting mid thigh. Bound slit detailing a...

Norman Norell is well known for his sequined creations. Here is an unusual version that, though unlabeled, is unmistakably Norell.

A casual style predominates, from th...

Japanese Rei Kawakubo designed this wool-blend half-dress topcoat with embossed pinstripes for her Comme des Garcons Fall/Winter 2000 collection, which she titled "Hard And Forceful"...

This Azzedine Alaia (1935-2017) black Spring ensemble features a new triple-zipper fine-denim bodycon skirt from the iconic 1986 Alaia Paris brass-zipper collection. For a set includ...

Rich burgundy velvet 1960s dress by Kiki Hart featuring an empire bustline trimmed with a band of black soutache and jet beads. A rolled turtleneck, na...

Evoking late-1980s couture with complex construction showcasing a wide variety of sewing techniques and French lace, this like-new "Christian Lacroix Paris Made In France" fuchsia-la...

Brown tweed wrap coat by Bill Blass features wide lapels, menswear style patch pockets and a matching tweed belt with buckle. Deep back vent. Brown taffeta lining. Approximate size 6.

Vintage black faille princess-style coat with peter pan collar and self buttons from neck to hem. Set-in sleeves with deep armholes. Vertical seaming shapes the fitted waist and flar...

Fabulous long sheath of black crepe with allover beading in a squiggle design of black bugle beads. Narrow body hugging design with straight neckline front and back and cut-in armhol...

High quality raccoon with dark markings and featuring elasticized hem and wrists. Zip front that closes up all the way to the neck for extra warmth. Size S-M.

1960s lightweight coat by Jacques Heim in navy nubby wool featuring a fitted bodice and A-line skirt with a welted seam below the waist, three-quarter sleeves, and a free panel over ...

1960s medium-weight silk shift dress in a beautiful shade of pink. The construction features a yoke at top that extends over the shoulders to form cap sleeves. The simple straight sh...

Floral voile 1930s day dress in pastel colors. Sleeveless bodice has capelet effect with ruffle border and ties that fit through tab. Paneled skirt flares at sides. Slips over the he...

Wonderful red plaid coat featuring a wide belt, mandarin collar, and turn-back cuffs, accented with a fringed scarf. Fitted bodice, slight A-line skirt....

1980s brown glen plaid coat by Valentino featuring a collarless, open front, shoulder pads, soft shoulder pleats in front, and an inverted pleat in back.

Black wool 1980s coat by Christian Dior is double breasted and features a faux Persian collar and cuffs. Square shoulders with pads. Longer length. Marked size 6, but oversized cut.

Odette Barsa was primarily renowned for her exquisite lingerie, produced from the 1930s-1970s, and this vibrant red print ensemble may have been originall...