If You Want to Smell Sophisticated and Rich This Winter, Perfumers Recommend Wearing This
The ultimate blueprint.
I generally want to smell expensive year-round (who doesn't?!), but I'll admit that winter-coded perfumes really corner the market in this area. Juicy, sun-drenched elixirs have their time and place, of course, but a darker, richer scent aligned with the dropping temps tends to have a more refined, opulent vibe. Just take it from perfumers, who predict dense, resinous notes on everyone's necks this season, along with a few "twisted" components you might be surprised to find in a winter perfume roundup.
"People are becoming more adventurous," Paris-based master perfumer Isaac Sinclair tells me. "There’s a desire for an olfactive surprise." The chicest individuals are pushing the envelope on what it means to smell rich, so I consulted the experts on the ultimate winter buying guide. Below, find the 7 categories to commit to memory.
Nocturnal Florals
According to Amandine Pallez, global creative director of Bvlgari Parfums, "Floral fragrances are taking on a more nocturnal character." Think dark, mysterious blooms over the fresh, lilting blends you might gravitate towards during spring and summer. "They possess a profound depth, frequently imbued with ambery or resinous qualities," she adds. If florals are your thing, search for deeper notes like amber, vanilla, or musk for more of a gothic-romance vibe.
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Roasted Gourmands
Yes, gourmand fragrances are still having their moment, but according to Sinclair, the edible category is moving away from just desserts. Gone are the days of smelling like you just spent hours roaming a pastry shop: "Coffee, cacao and other fermented, roasted profiles are resonating with people who want richness without the sugar," he shares. "[They] create warmth and depth without tipping into sweetness. Tobacco also adds beautiful complexity."
DSM-Firmenich perfumer Erwan Raguenes agrees on the smoky front, nothing that moodier gourmand profiles with roasted, charred nuances ("Think burnt sugar, toasted hazelnut, or marshmallow layered with oud," he says) are coming out on top. "It’s indulgent, comforting, and warm, but with a sophisticated edge rather than overt sweetness," he adds.
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Caramel Marshmallow
Those innately familiar with the gourmand territory might recall how vanilla became the main character of the fragrance market. Then marshmallow snatched the crown, adding a toasty creaminess that made sweeter blends slightly more elevated. Now? Caramel is the gourmand note to watch.
"After the surge of milky, marshmallow-soft scents, richer edible notes like caramel and dulce de leche are emerging as new lead players, bringing a creamy, textured sweetness that feels warm and winter-ready," says Raguenes. They maintain that toasted quality while adding a rich, salty complexity—a mouthwatering contrast.
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Boozy Notes
Cocktail-inspired perfumes are nothing new, but Pallez says boozy notes—think rum, cognac, or whiskey—will be a staple for winter, as they provide warmth and intensity. Although, it's less about cosplaying as a negroni or dirty martini and more about emulating the vibe of a private cocktail lounge—dark, moody, and very, very luxe. This year, look for blends that also add woods and spices to the mix; they'll ensure the indulgent scents never read too sticky-sweet.
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Stark Contrasts
Zooming out, we have what Sinclair refers to as an "olfactive surprise." Think gourmands with a twist (like the roasted versions above), dark fruits, and spirited florals that exhibit the beauty in contrast.
Pallez agrees, as she sees an uptick in fragrances that pair dual and opposing ingredients. "This often involves combining a fresh or aromatic top note with a warm, addictive dry down, creating a captivating tension that diverges from more unidirectional or mono-note fragrances," she shares. She views the trend as a subtle nod to the contrasts of winter—that is, cold, arid outdoors versus cozy warm interiors. "Clients want both comfort and a little 'spark,'" she adds.
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Neuroscents
Perhaps it's a byproduct of the imminent winter blues, but Raguenes predicts a deeper integration of wellness into fragrance in the coming months, be it with mood-enhancing notes or ritual-driven layering (a personalized curation of body oils, lotions, and eau de parfums, for example). "Scents are increasingly designed to support how people want to feel, not just how they want to smell," he explains. "Rituals, mood-enhancing notes, and intentional compositions are turning fragrance into a form of self-care that engages both body and mind, marking a meaningful shift from last year’s more ingredient-driven focus."
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Oud, Leather, and Osmanthus
The best winter-coded fragrances—at least in my opinion—present a juxtaposition of familiarity and mystery. They're cozy yet aloof, comforting yet sophisticated. To nail this delicate balance, Raguenes recommends seeking out a very specific holy trinity: oud, leather and osmanthus.
"Oud with its dense, resinous profile adds depth, warmth, and long-lasting intensity; these are qualities that naturally create a fuller, more substantial scent for the winter," he shares. (Oud has been famously dubbed "liquid gold," after all.) Leather, he adds, brings a smooth, structured clarity to the equation, thereby making a scent feel more refined, while osmanthus creates complexity by adding subtle fruity, floral, and leathery tones. "Together or individually, these notes add dimension and sophistication that make a winter scent feel fuller, deeper and 'richer' in character," he notes. Each is essentially a flashing neon sign that a perfume will smell chic and expensive.
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Jamie Schneider is Who What Wear’s senior beauty editor based in New York City. With over seven years in the industry, she specializes in trend forecasting, covering everything from innovative fragrance launches to need-to-know makeup tutorials to celebrity profiles. She graduated from the University of Michigan with a B.A. in Organizational Studies and English before moving to NYC, and her work has appeared in MindBodyGreen, Coveteur, and more. When she’s not writing or testing the latest beauty finds, Jamie loves scouting vintage boutiques and reading thrillers, and she’s always down for a park picnic in Brooklyn.